Rust and checkered metal

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Hunter92

Hunter92

New Member
Posts
262
Location
Buckinghamshire, MK
'lo all.

Is it possible to mig weld a checkered sheet onto the boot pan when it comes to replacing due to rot? rather than buying the £90 replacement as i have this metal in the shed. Also whats the best way of welding the rear arches on the side wall just before the actual arch? only the drivers side seems to be effected.

Thanks <3
 
Not that bad really, i'd say 90% of it looks brand new still, bascially there's 2 or 3 2cm x 2cm square holes, towards the back end, and then it's just the walls behind the arches which is about 1 ft long and 3 inches high if that makes sense

Cheers mate
 
If you want a new boot floor, Itve always bought them from RST Landrovers, £60 delivered.

but, if you have the ally chequerplate, if I were you i'd use that and rivet it in. The boot floor isn't structural.
 
Personally I'd plate the holes up. If they are that small why Not have a go yourself? Do you know anyone that will lend you a mig?
Worth a play :p
If it all goes ok then it's not cost you anything... And if not... Then get a pro to do it haha.
 
Last edited:
Bear in mind that once you start removing ****e metal you'll almost certainly find more rot! If you're going to try and weld it yourself then the golden rule is to never try and just weld on to crap rusty pitted metal. You need to cut back to good stuff otherwise it'll just be a lesson in pure frustration!
 
Ok thanks would I overlap the metal overc the holes or cut it so it sits in?

If I were to rivet the ally plate in, would I rivet through the pan that isn't rot? Still need ideas regarding n/s rear arch wall?

Regards
 
tombardier said:
Bear in mind that once you start removing ****e metal you'll almost certainly find more rot! If you're going to try and weld it yourself then the golden rule is to never try and just weld on to crap rusty pitted metal. You need to cut back to good stuff otherwise it'll just be a lesson in pure frustration!
Click to expand...

Should have said that really.. :s

You can plate over the top, or let it in, it's up to you, looks better set flush though :)

As for the arch, get back to good metal, then cut the new piece to length, bend it to shape and weld it in.

Happy days :D
 
Another suggestion....most of the work in weld jobs is in the preparation BEFORE the welding starts and with patience you could probably do that prep work and save cash even if you get the welding done by a pro. What I do is:
1. Cut out rust (tin snips, angle grinder etc)
2. Trace the outline of the holes onto cardboard (cornflake packets will do)
3. Cut out the resultant shapes and use them as stencils to draw the shapes onto the new sheet of metal (same thickness as you welding too). USe tin snips to cut the new metal.
4. FIt the pieces of metal into the holes, bending as required, usually this involves quite a bit of rework to get a good fit, the bigger the gaps the harder it is to weld. SOmetimes its easier to use several bits of new metal for one hole. Tack weld the bits in if required.
5. MIG Weld it up, the easiest technique I reckon is to stop/start the welder so you do not blow holes eg weld 5mm or even less then stop a second to let it cool and then carry on. Practice will get you welding good patches....the better the welder the easier it is...cheap ones tend to not stop/start as well and do not go as low in current, but even with TOO much current you will get eventuallly get the job done using the stop/start technique. Welds made this way are not te best but will do for body panels. Holes you make by blowing through can be filled using the stop/start technique.
 
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