Quite common to reglue them into position, loads of info on the D3 forum.
running out of ideas
- Thread starter Lotus owner
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Quite common to reglue them into position, loads of info on the D3 forum.
hi mate
indeed, can see now why they glue them, inc that yellow sleeve as it looks like that is fixed to the column
I would be trying to glue it as well, if the new part is 250 quid!
Ur not wrong there mate , was shocked if I’m being honest the cost of the new sensor, also doesn’t look like a new angle sensor comes with that column sleeve anyway
But then looking at new steering columns can’t see it on there either, only the second hand columns
Lotus owner
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Hi all, for me the sensor is working ok as it is sending a reading, its just that the collar is not fixed and it gives false readings, how many people buy a new sensor and whilst fitting they think they have disturbed the collar refit it finding it works and if the true were known they had inadvertintly repaired it and no sensor was needed.
Going to have a go at just pushing the ring back into place as mine wobbles its not slipping its loose.
keep you up dated.
Going to have a go at just pushing the ring back into place as mine wobbles its not slipping its loose.
keep you up dated.
Lotus owner
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- Saffron Walden
Right so I have now used some sticks like.....blanket. will leave for 24 hours and re check tomorrow, I will let you know the results.
Many thks for the update and indeed Plse let us know what the outcome is
Lotus owner
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Hi Chaps and chapesses, car drives like a dream, used "sticks like .....to blanket" went around the shaft bonding the dog drive into position, the glue does not fully harden but more than enough to do the job, also it does not slump when you try to build up to close the gap between the shaft and the dog drive. I will give it another test drive, but right now its running well, no limp mode no warning lights excellent job down at no cost, well just the code reader. So for those who have a similar problem check this first, even if there is no apparent movement in the dog gear check and check again as this will save potentially £250 plus any labour.
Many thanks for all your help it is well appreciated.
I now have to fix the aircon and reversing bleepers ha ha.
Many thanks for all your help it is well appreciated.
I now have to fix the aircon and reversing bleepers ha ha.
hi
happy days and well chuffed for u , thks for letting us now
all part of the lz community where we help each other and that autel has certainly paid for itself already
A/c normally the rad at fault, unless you have rear a/c then it will be the pipework.
plus 1, my condenser had a pin hole leak in it
Lotus owner
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- 34
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- Saffron Walden
Hi,
I have an MOT due this month and I know that I need to replace the rear brake pipes, they look complication and I have one quote of £300, surely not!
will look at other providers.
I have an MOT due this month and I know that I need to replace the rear brake pipes, they look complication and I have one quote of £300, surely not!
will look at other providers.
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- East Dorset
You could try taking them off and taking them to a pipe specialist, they will copy them and put the same (or similar!) fittings on. Then all you need to do is fit em, fill up and bleed.
Lotus owner
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I had one quote of £350, just waiting for another one to come in.
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- East Dorset
Sorry, is that just for the pipe(s) or for taking off and putting on as well? The guys who sell them off the shelf seem to charge more sometimes. Mind you, they ain't that difficult to make up yourself, just need some Kunifer, fittings and a small tool to make the flared ends. Articles on how to do it all over the net and in mags.Last December's LRM had a big article on it with lots of pics. (You have to do your own brakes when building a kit car.)
Had mine done by my mot guy, £80. All in.
I fixed mine with CA glue, and it worked perfectly for the 3 years I had my D3.
Sorry, is that just for the pipe(s) or for taking off and putting on as well? The guys who sell them off the shelf seem to charge more sometimes. Mind you, they ain't that difficult to make up yourself, just need some Kunifer, fittings and a small tool to make the flared ends. Articles on how to do it all over the net and in mags.Last December's LRM had a big article on it with lots of pics. (You have to do your own brakes when building a kit car.)
plus 1, on some of the rear brake pipes on the D3 they can’t be replaced in the same place with the body on so indeed many buy a roll of Kunifer , fittings and flaring tool and do it themselves , saving a fortune
think I’ve got a few piccies of the original route on the body , will see if I can find them
ps, when I done my D3 rear wishbones I done the brake pipes myself , found the flaring tools in the pic brilliant , got both types now as I also done the brake pipes front to back on the FL1
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- Location
- East Dorset
Lots of it but not at all impossible if doing it yourself. The great thing about kunifer is you don't need a pipe bender to put the bends in, you can do it by hand. Plus the big advantage that it ain't going to rust away!
I think people are scared of it cos it's brakes. but at the end of the day, provided you take sensible care it is difficult to make a mess of it and it is easy to test. Just stand on the brakes and get someone else to look for leaks, just as an MOT tester would do. If you're worried about doing the flares, just cut a bit of pipe off and practise. No sweat!
Hope OP has enough info to go for it now.
