Running a bit Rich!

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Yeah the infamous Landyzone '****-take reputation' only seems to work when those with a post count of 2000+ want it to!! :biggrin1:
Re the continual rich-running, have you had the fuel trims reset?
 
David_Cooper said:
Yeah the infamous Landyzone '****-take reputation' only seems to work when those with a post count of 2000+ want it to!! :biggrin1:
Re the continual rich-running, have you had the fuel trims reset?
Click to expand...

Does anyone know what diagnostic machines will reset the Adaptive Values on a P38 4.0 thor please
 
David_Cooper said:
Yeah the infamous Landyzone '****-take reputation' only seems to work when those with a post count of 2000+ want it to!! :biggrin1:
Re the continual rich-running, have you had the fuel trims reset?
Click to expand...

That's absolutely true fella! Own medicine and all that! Ha!

No iv not had the trim reset, I was kinda holding out before I did that leaving it as a last resort? Because there's no faults showing I'm left 'guessing' as to what is?
 
Regarding scanners that should be able to reset values, I think the one the chap used on mine was an 'autodiagnose' or something? It was sort of 'T' shaped with handles on either side.
Scott- I think a reset can't hurt. Especially with a check and clear of any lingering fault codes at the same time. You've really got to find out exactly what state the exhaust emissions are in- when my Lambda/s were stuck, it showed 10% CO. After two new sensors, I now have 0.6% at idle (I have no CATs).
Juicey/ eightinavee etc are the guys I would be grovelling to!
 
I had the trims reset today, had faults codes read (none)

Had idle adjusted and still runs the same, a pile of ****e!

It's when I start up from cold (runs and idles fine when warm)
When I select drive the revs drop straight down to nearly stall, when I go to accelerate there's no power at all for about 4 seconds then picks straight up and goes? This carrys on until it has warmed up:confused: :confused::confused:
 
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Ta for the PM, I think you need to get it on Testbook and look at live data before the engine is started from cold,then watch as soon as it is started and look at what the ecu is working with.If the engine is OK when warm then I think its fair to assume that it is physically OK,its just a control issue.
The trouble is you need someone who knows what all the values should be as the car starts,then warms up.The engine will be trying to run closed loop from about 15 secs after starting so looking at what the Oxy sensors are doing would be a good place to start.
I know it can be annoying when an engine wont run right,but I always work on the theory that it worked OK when it left the factory,so what is missing now ?
 
eightinavee said:
Ta for the PM, I think you need to get it on Testbook and look at live data before the engine is started from cold,then watch as soon as it is started and look at what the ecu is working with.If the engine is OK when warm then I think its fair to assume that it is physically OK,its just a control issue.
The trouble is you need someone who knows what all the values should be as the car starts,then warms up.The engine will be trying to run closed loop from about 15 secs after starting so looking at what the Oxy sensors are doing would be a good place to start.
I know it can be annoying when an engine wont run right,but I always work on the theory that it worked OK when it left the factory,so what is missing now ?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info mate much appreciated, iv had it on test book at the garage, was there yesterday but like you say he needs it long enough for it to fully cool down first, we only had time for it to cool forabout 50 mins so wasn't a true diagnosis.

Cheers mate will keep you posted mate
 
scott02464 said:
It's when I start up from cold (runs and idles fine when warm)
When I select drive the revs drop straight down to nearly stall, when I go to accelerate there's no power at all for about 4 seconds then picks straight up and goes? This carrys on until it has warmed up:confused: :confused::confused:
Click to expand...

Would a faulty 'Knock sensor' cause these symptoms??
 
dont know much about petrol range rovers, eight in a vee you seem very knowledgable on the system, would a duff knock sensor lean off or retard ignition timing on a range rover? or even both?
 
eightinavee said:
No.
Click to expand...

Hummm, would it make a difference if i took one out?

Just been under the rangie and found a bodged connector on the drivers side sensor.

Took the sensor out and it had a hole in the sensor on the plastic part of the plug and someone had covered it with silicone!
 
David_Cooper said:
I wouldn't think so..
Click to expand...

Ok, I took out one sensor (had bodged connection) I tried the engine with that one out and it ran the same (bad) so I thought It could be the culprit, but if it makes no difference it's not causing my probs.

Would a faulty o2 sensor cause the symptoms I'm having?

Feel like iv tried everything (that I know) and I'm very close to just biting the bullet and buying a pair (o2 sensors)!!?
 
It may be the o2 sensors, but you need to check out what they're doing, you can get an ok idea with a multi-meter, a better idea with a scope.
I'm reluctant to advise changing them because chaps like eightinavee etc are way more knowledgeable than moi and they're not overly cheap..
It worked for me, but then I had no running issues at all, the MAF readings were correct and both lambda sensors were stuck at 5v telling the ECU to inject more and more fuel, even after I'd checked all wiring, including the important heater circuits.
However, your running problems are different to mine! Are you far from any of the genned-up guys on here?
 
David_Cooper said:
It may be the o2 sensors, but you need to check out what they're doing, you can get an ok idea with a multi-meter, a better idea with a scope.
I'm reluctant to advise changing them because chaps like eightinavee etc are way more knowledgeable than moi and they're not overly cheap..
It worked for me, but then I had no running issues at all, the MAF readings were correct and both lambda sensors were stuck at 5v telling the ECU to inject more and more fuel, even after I'd checked all wiring, including the important heater circuits.
However, your running problems are different to mine! Are you far from any of the genned-up guys on here?
Click to expand...

Ok mate, what do you mean by the heater circuits?
And do you know the proceedure to testing them with a multimeter?
I'm about 10 miles south of York bud....
 
Well each lambda has a built-in heating element/ circuit that enables the sensor to work properly. Although the ECM chooses when to complete the circuit, I'd imagine it's on a lot of the time. If you check out the wiring diagrams, you'll be able to trace the wiring/ colours and make sure all is good.

For reference, from my own deciphering of RAVE-

Plug C507 (centre one on the ECM)
pin 32 - Red/black wire is the o2 sensor ground.
pin 33 - Blue wire is bank B o2 sensor signal, to ECM (This wire is the correct one for the upstream sensor, but RAVE lists it as being for the downstream NAS one)
pin 34 - Orange wire is bank A o2 sensor signal, to ECM.

The lambda sensors should switch from 0v-5v, not give a steady reading which you can see with the multimeter.

The above was correct for my '95 GEMS-fed car, later Thor systems are totally different.
 
David_Cooper said:
Well each lambda has a built-in heating element/ circuit that enables the sensor to work properly. Although the ECM chooses when to complete the circuit, I'd imagine it's on a lot of the time. If you check out the wiring diagrams, you'll be able to trace the wiring/ colours and make sure all is good.

For reference, from my own deciphering of RAVE-

Plug C507 (centre one on the ECM)
pin 32 - Red/black wire is the o2 sensor ground.
pin 33 - Blue wire is bank B o2 sensor signal, to ECM (This wire is the correct one for the upstream sensor, but RAVE lists it as being for the downstream NAS one)
pin 34 - Orange wire is bank A o2 sensor signal, to ECM.

The lambda sensors should switch from 0v-5v, not give a steady reading which you can see with the multimeter.

The above was correct for my '95 GEMS-fed car, later Thor systems are totally different.
Click to expand...

Thanks David I'm going to give that a go tomorrow and see what I can find! Sorry just to confirm I'm looking for the volts to be 0v then 5v, and not be a steady reading?
 
Yes thats right, although you won't see much with the a multimeter, just figures that go up and down, around every second, between 0-5v for the GEMS Titania sensors. You're basically seeing if they are 'switching' as opposed to sitting still at a certain voltage. According to RAVE, a steady reading of 4.9v means the sensor has gone open circuit.

Is it still missfiring? Because as above, I don't think this test will very mean much if the engine isn't (mechanically) functioning correctly.
 
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