RRS gearbox fault

Hi all , new to this woundering if anyone has experienced anything similar
I’ve taken my 2011 Range Rover sport to 2 specialists and both say they have fixed it then fault persists , car drives faultlessly mechanicaly but one of the modules isn’t talking to the one witch displays either ‘P, R,D on the dash along with ‘gearbox fault’ and ‘gearbox not in park’ turning the car on and off (pressing start stop button) repeatedly for 5-20 mins P will appear and car will start , will get u home, sometimes u can drive it for a day other times one trip It has nakered the alternator in this time don’t no if it’s related also has had the gear stick module replaced

2011 rrs milage 105k

cheers ,Tom.

Think we need @Bemble to come out of retirement for this one maybe.

kds said:

Think we need @Bemble to come out of retirement for this one maybe.

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All suggestions would be much appreciated , getting annoying is an understatement

Starting with the simplest/cheapest thing first, the clamp bolt for the selector cable has a habit of seizing in its pivot hole in the selector lever (underneath the vehicle) which prevents it articulating (required as the end of the lever moves through an arc and the cable moves linearly). This causes a mismatch between the shift lever position and the selector lever position. Worth checking if it needs freeing off and some grease slapping on it.








The next obvious possible cause is the gear position/inhibitor switch, which is part of the mechatronic unit electronic module. Because of the problems with the switch on the 5HP24, the design was changed for the 6HP26/28 to being ‘contactless’, where a slider containing magnets moves over a sensor which provides the gear position information to the controller. To be honest, though, it’s hard to imagine what might go wrong with this mechanism.




















I have seen reports on BMW forums of the mechatronic unit having to be removed and sent away to a specialist for re-programming to have this problem fixed. It may also be worth checking that the pins in the multipin connector are clean/corrosion-free and that the connector plug is engaged properly. Don’t touch the pins, though (risk of ESD).








Phil

Bemble said:

Starting with the simplest/cheapest thing first, the clamp bolt for the selector cable has a habit of seizing in its pivot hole in the selector lever (underneath the vehicle) which prevents it articulating (required as the end of the lever moves through an arc and the cable moves linearly). This causes a mismatch between the shift lever position and the selector lever position. Worth checking if it needs freeing off and some grease slapping on it.

The next obvious possible cause is the gear position/inhibitor switch, which is part of the mechatronic unit electronic module. Because of the problems with the switch on the 5HP24, the design was changed for the 6HP26/28 to being ‘contactless’, where a slider containing magnets moves over a sensor which provides the gear position information to the controller. To be honest, though, it’s hard to imagine what might go wrong with this mechanism.

I have seen reports on BMW forums of the mechatronic unit having to be removed and sent away to a specialist for re-programming to have this problem fixed. It may also be worth checking that the pins in the multipin connector are clean/corrosion-free and that the connector plug is engaged properly. Don’t touch the pins, though (risk of ESD).

Phil

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Bemble said:

Starting with the simplest/cheapest thing first, the clamp bolt for the selector cable has a habit of seizing in its pivot hole in the selector lever (underneath the vehicle) which prevents it articulating (required as the end of the lever moves through an arc and the cable moves linearly). This causes a mismatch between the shift lever position and the selector lever position. Worth checking if it needs freeing off and some grease slapping on it.

The next obvious possible cause is the gear position/inhibitor switch, which is part of the mechatronic unit electronic module. Because of the problems with the switch on the 5HP24, the design was changed for the 6HP26/28 to being ‘contactless’, where a slider containing magnets moves over a sensor which provides the gear position information to the controller. To be honest, though, it’s hard to imagine what might go wrong with this mechanism.

I have seen reports on BMW forums of the mechatronic unit having to be removed and sent away to a specialist for re-programming to have this problem fixed. It may also be worth checking that the pins in the multipin connector are clean/corrosion-free and that the connector plug is engaged properly. Don’t touch the pins, though (risk of ESD).

Phil

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hi Phil thanks for the reply , I’m pretty sure it’s an electrical issue , the natural was flickering yesterday and the car was half starting then The neutral sign on dash stayed lit and it started I keep it in neautral with hand break instead of park as it locks the shifter when in park. Here’s a pic of the fault code taken from a snap on reader
Thanks in advance

Tomgasworks said:

hi Phil thanks for the reply , I’m pretty sure it’s an electrical issue , the natural was flickering yesterday and the car was half starting then The neutral sign on dash stayed lit and it started I keep it in neautral with hand break instead of park as it locks the shifter when in park. Here’s a pic of the fault code taken from a snap on reader
Thanks in advance

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If the shift cable is seized as Phil suggested, the electronic selector may be in a false position giving erratic results.

Datatek said:

If the shift cable is seized as Phil suggested, the electronic selector may be in a false position giving erratic results.

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Do you know if this is something I can look at myself with the suspension Jacked up ,or will it need putting on a ramp ?

What fault occurred first, info lights/symbols, or alternator ?

Tomgasworks said:

Here’s a pic of the fault code taken from a snap on reader

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I think that may be a transfer box code, rather than a transmission one. Can you select low range and get back into high again?

Phil

Tomgasworks said:

Do you know if this is something I can look at myself with the suspension Jacked up ,or will it need putting on a ramp ?

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NEVER get under the car with the suspension jacked up unless you put some axle stands in place.

I'd go back to both the spécialists and have them give you your money back or an explanation of why the repair didn't work?

Bemble said:

I think that may be a transfer box code, rather than a transmission one. Can you select low range and get back into high again?

Phil

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Once the fault comes up you can’t use any of the special programs , I was told hat it could be the Mecatronics as you said. I didn’t want to shell out 2k without being sure that’s the problem first Bournemouth Land Rover are looking at this tomorrow I will ask the, to check out this selector cable section