Round 2 asking for help 1.8 2005 Free Lander wont start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Reapdis

Reapdis

Member
Posts
17
Location
Leigh
so I have posted on here here twice first in wrong place NEWBY then in right place but no help was offered so before I burn it I am giving it another go I have a 1.8 2005 Freelander it has a strange fault or a few it runs awsome for weeks then just out of blue fails to start the first sign I get is the unlock and lock button in car stops working and when I go to start it it turns over but fails to fire also the fuel pump does not make the buzzing noise when the ignition is turn also the locks jump well make a clicking sound form the back doors. I spend hours pocking and prodding and just out of blue it will start then run then all start again please please help save this car from being reduced to ash

Things I have tried changed battery in fob and car changed under bonnet fuel box
 
Is the fuel pump in the tank or at the back somewhere on the 1.8? Does it share an earth with the electronics on the back door? Might be a place to look.

As a matter of interest, how did you find out that the lock/unlock button goes bandy when the problem occurs? I never use that button, always the remote.

Also, when the car is locked, does the alarm led blink on the dash - and then go out once unlocked? Does it stay off when you turn the key to start the car? I presume the car is not immobilised as the engine is turning over, but worth asking.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Is the fuel pump in the tank or at the back somewhere on the 1.8? Does it share an earth with the electronics on the back door? Might be a place to look.

As a matter of interest, how did you find out that the lock/unlock button goes bandy when the problem occurs? I never use that button, always the remote.

Also, when the car is locked, does the alarm led blink on the dash - and then go out once unlocked? Does it stay off when you turn the key to start the car? I presume the car is not immobilised as the engine is turning over, but worth asking.
Click to expand...
Hi I live in Leigh lock doors when out and about misses does anyway. The back door if I go over a bump the interior light does come on till I open and shut again the only sign as I said above is that lock button just stops doing anything then the car will not start its running now but unknown for how long thanks for the reply
 
Nodge68 said:
It could be a bad connection in the fuel pump relay or the impact sensor.
Click to expand...
Hi thanks for the reply were do I fend this impact sensor I think it maybe the problem as the doors wont lock fuel pump stops working so it could be the fault as I presume when your crashed all thees things stop I have changed that red cut off switch under bonnet fuse box
 
The impact sensor is under the engine bay fuse box. It has a red button that is supposed to click down, but pops off if it's impacted.
There's a fuse in the fuel pump supply that is also linked to the impact sensor. If the fuel pump fuse blows, the CCU pops the door locks, as it thinks the impact sensor has been tripped. So every time the ignition is switched on, locks pop and the pump doesn't run.
 
Nodge68 said:
The impact sensor is under the engine bay fuse box. It has a red button that is supposed to click down, but pops off if it's impacted.
There's a fuse in the fuel pump supply that is also linked to the impact sensor. If the fuel pump fuse blows, the CCU pops the door locks, as it thinks the impact sensor has been tripped. So every time the ignition is switched on, locks pop and the pump doesn't run.
Click to expand...
When I first bought the beast it cut out just after filling boot with months worth of shopping after have a good look through every thing I found the fuse in the under bonnet fuse box had melted I changed the entire box as well as the red thing with the steel ball in winch I now know to be be the impact sensor is there a way of removing ?? also the CCU could this be faulty also upto now its still running when I got it to start it was ticking very loudly but not followers sounded like a stuck injector I went school get little lad and shop and it stopped doing it I cannot figure out if I am dealing with one fault effecting loads or separate ones
 
Which fuse was melted? I've seen the fuel pump melt it's wiring and blow fuses. I have come across this more than ocne. I have seen the pump motor draw excessive current, like 20 Amps. This will melt wiring or blow the pump fuse. So you need to check the pump fuse and relay and test the impact sensor too.
 
Nodge68 said:
Which fuse was melted? I've seen the fuel pump melt it's wiring and blow fuses. I have come across this more than ocne. I have seen the pump motor draw excessive current, like 20 Amps. This will melt wiring or blow the pump fuse. So you need to check the pump fuse and relay and test the impact sensor too.
Click to expand...
The one to the fuel pump 20 amp it was well cooked there was just a yellow mess were it use to be
 
kernowsvenski said:
Lots of MOT passes ^^^. Happy FL days indeed.

New tyres this week, and I've just found out my IRD is in tip top nick. New rear diff oil seal is going in tomorrow along with a fresh lot of auto box fluid. Recon VCU next. An expensive few days but all good stuff. Now the small matter of an oil leak at the back of the engine, somewhere around the turbo area. Any pointers folks?
Click to expand...

Ok. So that sounds like the fuel pump is goosed. Best bet is unplug the pump from its harness and check you have 12 volts at the pump. I suspect you don't have voltage at the pump, hence the popping locks. The pump relay is the next thing to check. The CCU doesn't have anything to do with the pump, other than to get 12 volts when the pump feed is active. If the CCU doesn't see 12 volts from the pump feed, while 12 volts from the ignition is there, the locks are popped.
 
Nodge68 said:
Ok. So that sounds like the fuel pump is goosed. Best bet is unplug the pump from its harness and check you have 12 volts at the pump. I suspect you don't have voltage at the pump, hence the popping locks. The pump relay is the next thing to check. The CCU doesn't have anything to do with the pump, other than to get 12 volts when the pump feed is active. If the CCU doesn't see 12 volts from the pump feed, while 12 volts from the ignition is there, the locks are popped.
Click to expand...
Super helpful will give it ago tomorrow see if I get anywhere you may just bought it another day cheers for taking the trouble to well appreciated
 
Update so checked fuel pump ccu ecu and loads of other stuff had every single fuses out and checked still no joy had another look at the inertia switch under the bonnet bellow engine fuse box removed the plug and noticed the connector on the front had melted had melted so I have cut it of and replaced with normal wire connectors turned key and it fired up so fingers crossed that's the problem !!! thanks so much for the help and anyone else suffering with these problems check the plug on the inertia switch !!!
 

Attachments

  • stupid plug.jpg
    stupid plug.jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 132
Reapdis said:
Update so checked fuel pump ccu ecu and loads of other stuff had every single fuses out and checked still no joy had another look at the inertia switch under the bonnet bellow engine fuse box removed the plug and noticed the connector on the front had melted had melted so I have cut it of and replaced with normal wire connectors turned key and it fired up so fingers crossed that's the problem !!! thanks so much for the help and anyone else suffering with these problems check the plug on the inertia switch !!!
Click to expand...

Glad it's working again. Something has caused the melting in the fuse box and inertia switch (impact sensor). So as you haven't found the cause, the problem could well return. Keep an eye on the fuses in the box for the problem reoccurring. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Glad it's working again. Something has caused the melting in the fuse box and inertia switch (impact sensor). So as you haven't found the cause, the problem could well return. Keep an eye on the fuses in the box for the problem reoccurring. ;)
Click to expand...
Damn had not thought about it that way well next time it melts it will all be melting as long as its get me through Christmas I will be happy really do not want to be car shopping before it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Freelander 2 cranks but wont start - intermittently
Replies
7
Views
2K
Freddie17
Freddie17
freelander03
Freelander 1 Cold starting issues - What I've done so far
Replies
8
Views
306
Graculus
Graculus
M
Freeland 2 SD4 HSE - intermittent fault ,wont go over 3000rpm
Replies
9
Views
931
Rank Amatuer
Rank Amatuer
P
Freelander 2 Wont Start after flat battery
Replies
4
Views
1K
Nunkie
N
Deni75
Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 it doesn't start
Replies
6
Views
1K
Jocelyn
J
Back
Top