IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,800
- Location
- Derbyshire, j28 M1
Fuel return pipes are ****e even new imo I replaced mine and they still dripped so I used tiny tie wraps on them and had no trouble since
That's been my thinking but so far tightening and checking everything I can think of hasn't made any difference. I'll do the fuel pump when I get paid next month as it's an easy fixWorth looking at or renewing the banjo washers as well, basically anything youve had off check it again.
Would that make so much of a difference to cold starts and idling until warm? Also the slightly lower level of fuel in the filter. I've ordered a new fuel lift pump and will see how much of a difference that makesCheck the valve clearances
most likely between tank sender unit and lift pumpI've replaced the fuel lift pump and I think it's helped a little. I opened the bleed screw on top of the filter after changing the lift pump and with the engine running and I'm getting air bubbles coming from there along with fuel. Where could I be looking for air getting in then? Would it be the main fuel line from tank pick up to lift pump? Or would it be between the lift pump and the filter?
Cheers James, I'll get a hold of a new length of fuel line and see if that sorts itmost likely between tank sender unit and lift pump
its usally the sender unit ,sedimenter or a joinCheers James, I'll get a hold of a new length of fuel line and see if that sorts it
The sender unit/pick up pipe is brand new so it's definitely not that and I don't have a sedimenter fitted (although I do have a new one in the loft somewhere). I'll get some new rubber fuel hose and run it straight from the tank to the lift pump. Hopefully that should sort any problems.its usally the sender unit ,sedimenter or a join
Worth looking at or renewing the banjo washers as well, basically anything youve had off check it again.
That's been my thinking but so far tightening and checking everything I can think of hasn't made any difference. I'll do the fuel pump when I get paid next month as it's an easy fix
Don't need new ones - just anneal the ones you have.....
Unions won't tighten properly on work hardened copper washers - the washer is too hard to compress into the imperfections of the mating surfaces.... anneal them !!
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