Rough running

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Daly17

Member
Posts
11
Location
Limoges
Recently I changed my clutch on a 2.0 td4 Freelander 1. I had to remove the inlet manifold to do it. After reassembly it is very lumpy on tickover and has no throttle response at all, foot to the floor and nothing happens.
Also after only a couple of minutes, the heater pipes are red hot. There is a breather pipe in front of the left hand wheel dropping through the bumper and that is blowing hot air and the pipe itself is very hot too.

Has anyone got any ideas please, desperate now !!!
 
The rough running could be loads of things, but it's like to be a sensor that hasn't been plugged back in.

The thing in front of the LR wheel is the Fuel Burning Heater (FBH), which comes on when the outside temperature is below 5°C or so.
 
Nodge68 said:
The rough running could be loads of things, but it's like to be a sensor that hasn't been plugged back in.

The thing in front of the LR wheel is the Fuel Burning Heater (FBH), which comes on when the outside temperature is below 5°C or so.
Click to expand...
My mechanic mate scanned it and it came up with a faulty maf sensor. Replaced it but it made no difference. The fbh never worked before i did my clutch. Strange that, is that why the heater matrix hoses get so hot.
 
Daly17 said:
My mechanic mate scanned it and it came up with a faulty maf sensor. Replaced it but it made no difference.
Click to expand...
I'd unplug the MAF and see if the running improves.
Daly17 said:
The fbh never worked before i did my clutch. Strange that, is that why the heater matrix hoses get so hot.
Click to expand...
It's possible it had locked out, which was reset after the battery was removed. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I'd unplug the MAF and see if the running improves.

It's possible it had locked out, which was reset after the battery was removed. ;)
Click to expand...
It has a brand new pierburg maf sensor. There was some discussion about the right part no for the maf. Their book suggested one that looked nothing like the one I took out, the part number for the one I removed they claim is for a mercedes. So I fitted the one with the same part number as the one I took off. If its wrong then the car has been running with the wrong maf sensor for the last two years I have owned it.

Can anyone confirm the correct part number for the maf sensor. TIA.
 
Daly17 said:
It has a brand new pierburg maf sensor. There was some discussion about the right part no for the maf.
Click to expand...
It should have a Bosch MAF, the Pierburg MAF is only suitable if the Synergy 2 module is fitted.
Daly17 said:
If its wrong then the car has been running with the wrong maf sensor for the last two years I have owned it.

Can anyone confirm the correct part number for the maf sensor. TIA
Click to expand...
Maybe the PO had a Synergy 2 fitted, and removed it to sell on when he sold the vehicle, but left the wrong MAF in place.


This is the Bosch MAF.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...&campaignid=12125451275&mkgroupid=12251517065
 
Nodge68 said:
It should have a Bosch MAF, the Pierburg MAF is only suitable if the Synergy 2 module is fitted.

Maybe the PO had a Synergy 2 fitted, and removed it to sell on when he sold the vehicle, but left the wrong MAF in place.


This is the Bosch MAF.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...&campaignid=12125451275&mkgroupid=12251517065
Click to expand...
It has the Synergy 2 fitted to it. Although I have no Idea how to set it up correctly. No instructions and the ones I can download are as clear as mud.
 
There are only 3 controls on a Synergy.
You need to set the dial about midway, say at 4, 5 or 6.
The power switch needs to be on.
The MAF compensation switch also needs to be on.

That's it.

There have been instances of the Synergy going wrong, potentially causing misfires, so I'd link it out of the system first, and see if the engine runs ok.
 
Iy turned out to be a badly routed vacuum pipe which had a hole burnt through it. Seems to be OK though now, apart from a fault code, P1613. That comes up as engine stability fault. Do you know what that is please.
 
If it was ok before check the sensor on the rail or you haven't trapped the wires when you put it back together before wasting time with the MAF also just check the map sensor if it's faulty unplug it see if there's any difference
 
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