Disco 2 Rough idling TD5

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Ok, will order some stuff and see what it does.. But that will only help with the kangarooing? OR do these also might have somehting to do with unbalance in the cylinders?
 
You'll have to wait untill the management will have all the correct inputs to be ruled out then we'll see , that kind of unbalance can have various reasons so it's hard to guess while there are many things which are not OK there.
 
Hey,

I have an excel with some data of the run i did yesterday.. Dont seem to be able to upload it in a post.
Might be interesting tho to compare with the one i'll have when i changed some sensors.. or maybe the values are good after all after looking at them. I don't really know how they all should behave..

So if there is a way to upload an excel pls let me know :)
 
Ok, PDF uploaded.
Hope its readable :) .

Would be great if some eyes over here can look at it and give some feedback, if i need a new sensor in your opinion i'll just order stuff today but dont wanna spend to much on unnessecary stuff (allready been doin that before i had a nanocom i think).

(just wanna get stuff fixed.. have some trips planned early 2021)
 

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OK, IMO the AAP sensor must be changed anyway and as i can't rely on the MAF reading by not being genuine i dont know if the so called "MAF cut out" syndrome is due to the sensor's roughness or there is an exagerated sucction in reality, unfortunately that's how it is, to rule out one thing as to be able to go further you must be 100% that it's OK , anyway, make sure that all the turbo/intercooler hoses ar tight and can't leak at the clips or have small crack and that they are not soft(which means delaminated) cos that or a slight leak from the intercooler can also create that problem, a pressure test would be very relevant.
Another strange thing is that it's too much difference between the ECT(engine coolant temp) and FT(fuel temp) readings, as long as the ECT is around 80*C the FT can't be 40 degrees lower in reality, normal difference is around 10*C which was not the case from the beginning so you should use a laser thermometer on the head and compare with the ECT reading and if that's accurate the FT sensor must be changed. the ECT and FT are exacty the same sensors so in the morning after the vehicle tood all night these readings should be very close cos the coolant and the fuel should be at the same temp close to the outside temp around the vehicle so you can compare with a thermometer if you see what i mean. Unfortunately that vehicle seem to have a lot of issues and you'll have to spend on it as to rule out things one by one.
 
Thanks for looking at this data! Much appreciated!
At the start of this recording the engine wasn't cold (dont know if that matters) and it was about 3°C outside temp.

So i'm ordering 2 of these https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR2081 , 1 for coolant and 1 for fuel just to be sure ( not expensive thing), getting a new genuine AAP, a genuine injector harness and a genuine DCV . Gonna ask a buddy to borrow his MAF maybe to take some readings.

This weekend I will check each and every turbo hose, will take em off inspect and reasemble! I have some spares i can put on to see if it makes a difference.

Next week the sensors should arrive and i can replace those then.

A lot of issues all at once it seems :D , earlier this year all these readings were just fine.. But thats land rover i guess haha

Thank you very much for the help
 
UPDATE:

Hi,

A buddy with the same disco2 came over in the weekend to do some testing, this is what we learned ;).
The kangarooing is no more after we bypassed the wastgate regulator, so i'm leaving that bypassed for now (might get a new regulator at some point).
Checked all the turbo hoses and I found some cracks on the end (under the hose clamp) of the one on the intake manifold so swapped that with one in good condition, the other hoses were still in good condition.

The AAP definitly needs changing, we placed his AAP in mine and it had less give when accelerating. Strange thing is that he didn't really feel a difference with my "bad" AAP sensor.

It is definitly NOT the ECU since mine had the same issues with his ECU and his ran perfectly with my ECU (so thats good to know :D )

Checked the MAF readings in both vehicles and both are good.

So I hope swapping out the AAP and the injector harness to genuine will fix the issues.

Once the engine is hot and been running for a while and you put it in P the balances on 2 3 4 or all below/above 8/-8 , only 1 and 5 act up then with values around the -/+ 10 to 15.. when engine is cold all except for 4 are pretty high/low. When you drive the car it actually feels pretty good (after being able to hop in a decent running one and back in mine you could notice it pretty good), so the only issue is when standing still and accelerating.

Parts should arrive wednesday, hope to be able to fit them then or thursday!.

Thanks for the advice guys!
 
Last edited:
UPDATE 2:

Parts delivery came waaay early :D !!

I replaced the injector wiring loom from new oem to new genuine, replaced the AAP sensor to genuine, replaced the coolant temp sensor and replaced the DCV.

Was very stoked to fire the disco back up.. Got in, turned the key and nothing really changed.. so i'm back to the start and still no succes.

:(
 
Laurensvh said:
UPDATE 2:

Parts delivery came waaay early :D !!

I replaced the injector wiring loom from new oem to new genuine, replaced the AAP sensor to genuine, replaced the coolant temp sensor and replaced the DCV.

Was very stoked to fire the disco back up.. Got in, turned the key and nothing really changed.. so i'm back to the start and still no succes.

:(
Click to expand...
Hi
I am owning D2s already for about 6 years now and even I am not expert yet I have learned a lot. I have also changed a lot of parts, at the begining to OEM and now I try only genuine, especially when the part is important for stable running or safety.
I also have Nanocom and checked several times live data and even everything seemed OK, I was still not satisfied.
For me a great change was the genuine MAF and the recent stage1 remap I have:)
 
berg450 said:
Hi
I am owning D2s already for about 6 years now and even I am not expert yet I have learned a lot. I have also changed a lot of parts, at the begining to OEM and now I try only genuine, especially when the part is important for stable running or safety.
I also have Nanocom and checked several times live data and even everything seemed OK, I was still not satisfied.
For me a great change was the genuine MAF and the recent stage1 remap I have:)
Click to expand...

Hey,

Mine allready has a stage 1 map wich is doing fine.

From now on i'm gonna try genuine as well ;).

Thx
 
sierrafery said:
Hi, the suspect was te FT sensor not te ECT
Click to expand...


Oh right :confused:.
Yes I have one for that as well. I also made an appointment at a land rover specialized shop nearby and we are gonna check the fuel regulator and fuel pressure as well first.. since I recently started hearing a fast rattle/ticking around the FPR that has become a new suspect as well. Its not leaking i think.. but if that needs a change i'll do the FT change then.

Thx for the advice!

Keep you posted on how it goes ;).
 
Oh right!

I'm gonna pick up a laser thermometer later at my dads!
I'll do the temp measurement this evening then, but the difference in temp would cause the issues right?
 
I cant confirm what issue can cause cos it's the first time i see such big difference between the ECT and FT which is illogical but the FT input is important for the management to be accurate
 
sierrafery said:
I cant confirm what issue can cause cos it's the first time i see such big difference between the ECT and FT which is illogical but the FT input is important for the management to be accurate
Click to expand...
Oh ok.. might change it before I go to that shop then..
I'll have to do the air bleed procedure after changing it i think?
 
regarding on FT/ETC difference. I have just checked my latest live data and found 20-30C difference between them. Also recognized that the ETC reaches the normal 80-85 degree earlier than the fuel the 60-65 degree. Let say after 10-20 min the temps are 85-65 (so 20 degree diff in my case).
 
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