Roof Condensation

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Have a look on VWT4 forum its lads turning vans into campers, etc. they are doing exactly what you want,not so much the camper part, but the lining and paneling to stop condensation, all the hints and tips and links, because they have a section on conversions in progress,and like most on here they LOVE pictures, they photograph how and what they are using at every stage.
One thing if you are planning on doing the roof, I have learned from this forum is on Ebay there is a guy selling heat proof spray adhesive as in the summer sun, the heat on the roof unsticks the normal adhesive and all the lining droops and comes off.
 
I used carpet on the series motor, whilst it was upside down I did the front half with spray on adhesive and the back half with carpet tile adhesive - a bucket of thick goey paste. The back half stayed up - the front was a bugger re-do when the roof was back on the vehicle.

Incidently the 110 fills up with water- I put it down to a leak in the roof joint, surly it can't all be condensation:eek:
 
I doubt a full gush of water will be condensation, like you say probably a leak in ones of the joints, flows down the gutter = wet knee......trust me i know....and so do a few of my passengers lol

As for the spray I'm looking at heat resistant spray so it wont peel in summer. The camper site sounds like its work a look as well, pics are always good :D

If i've not posted back by the end of next week.....someone come and peel me off the roof I've glued myself to lol
 
And if anyone knows how to stop the glass sunroof condensing(?) let me know. The wife is fed up with having to put an umbrella up inside after it's been cold! :p

Malcolm
 
And if anyone knows how to stop the glass sunroof condensing(?) let me know. The wife is fed up with having to put an umbrella up inside after it's been cold! :p

Malcolm

I know this may sound a bit extreme but i removed my sunroof because of the condensation. I did put something in its place, a bit of chequer plate.
 
My sunroof was covered in condensation this morning - I might, also, blank it off but that would mean that I'd have to replace the front section of the head lining. Anyone got one cheap?
 
I need masses of camping mat as my metal shed is er very very damp Where is best to get a nice big roll from the shed is 5meters by 4,5 meters
 
All prepped and ready to rock Saturday morning, I headed off to the supplier (who said yeah come over and pick the items up) to get the glue and headlining material, half an hours drive away.
Only to find out from their neighboring business when i arrived that they were away for the weekend and not back until Monday-Tuesday

To say I was ****ed off is an understatement, spent most of the day bitching at people and biting their head off (sorry mrs hock lol). So no headligning this weekend :(
 
I've got a 90 ex MOD van that is just roof no headlining etc and am getting really bad condensation, can anyone recommend a good carpet or similar that won't look that bad but will stop the annoying dripping?

Also what is good to fix to the roof as a result of what's been tried?
 
I've got a 90 ex MOD van that is just roof no headlining etc and am getting really bad condensation, can anyone recommend a good carpet or similar that won't look that bad but will stop the annoying dripping?

Also what is good to fix to the roof as a result of what's been tried?
I re-built a Series III some years ago and before buying the correct headlining I decided to stick some form of insulation to the inside of the roof. This was easy as I had the roof off at the time and laid it upside down flat in my garage. I had a part roll of foam backed house carpet, the sort with a short nylon pile stored in the garage and rather to buy anything else I used this carpet. I cut a large piece to fit from the rear of the roof to point where the roof starts to slope down, and to fit between the alpine lights. Tried it for fit first, then poured a load of Uni-Bond impact adhesive onto the roof, spread it out with an adhesive comb and when tacky I carefully lowered the carpet into place. Pressed it down all over to ensure it stuck and a few days later fitted the roof back onto the Landy. I never did get around to buying the headlining and the carpet was still firmly stuck when I scrapped the vehicle out about 10 years later. I often wondered what it would have been like if I'd only had a shag pile carpet... waste not - want not !
 
Has anybody any ideas of how to cure condensation above the headlining in the front of a Defender 90. I get quite a bit in mine so much so that it runs forward when braking and runs or drips from the front corners and sometimes ffrom the interior light fitting.
I've thought of removing the head lining and applying some insulation to the underside of the roof to create a 'warm' surface, any ideas anyone?
Try using a can of polyurethane expanding foam insulation.

The reason why metal a hard top roof drips water, while canvas rag-tops doesn't, is that it's a condensation problem caused by the passengers' warm moist breath contacting the cold outer metal skin. Using expanding foam removes the airspace and provides insulation, and has the added benefit of preventing your roof lining from sagging. It worked wonders on my NINETY.

Note: this is only suitable for a reasonably rigid (new) headlining, else the expanding foam might cause its own headliner sagging.
 
I've got a 90 ex MOD van that is just roof no headlining etc and am getting really bad condensation, can anyone recommend a good carpet or similar that won't look that bad but will stop the annoying dripping?

Also what is good to fix to the roof as a result of what's been tried?
You might consider switching to a canvas rag-top, as these condensation problems are native to the metal hard tops. A rag-top is much drier. It's also fun to roll back the rag-top in summer weather and, considering the very poor door locks on Defender type Land Rovers, there's no real loss of security.
 
You might consider switching to a canvas rag-top, as these condensation problems are native to the metal hard tops. A rag-top is much drier. It's also fun to roll back the rag-top in summer weather and, considering the very poor door locks on Defender type Land Rovers, there's no real loss of security.
P.S. suggest you speak to your insurance company to agree this "modification" beforehand, as you'll need to discuss it is a factory-fitted option (ex military would have originally been a rag-top) and you can explain it should be considered to be a "restoration" to how it left the Solihull factory. You can also get rag-tops made from the same security materials used to protect trucks from thieves in lorry parks.
 
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