Freelander 1 Return of the (Land) Rovers: Kilo-Hippo-Delta

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I’ve also cured the annoying suspension knock. The Bearmach drop links are barely 2 years and 4K miles old, the rubber gaiters are in good condition but there’s already excess play in the lower knuckle joint. :(

A439A3B2-785C-4B9F-833B-58897E113F38.jpeg


I’ve fitted new Delphi replacements. Blissful silence now :)

(Hopefully they'll last rather longer!)
 
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Two problems fixed, two new problems emerge:

1. The passenger door lock now no longer unlocks with the plipper or interior switch and...
2. One of the offside wheel bearings is making a noise.

Couple of questions:
1. What’s the commonest cause of passenger door lock failure: failed internal micro switch and is the best fix replacement?
2. What’s the best way to identify the noisy bearing? Handling is perfect at the moment :)
 
rob_bell said:
What’s the commonest cause of passenger door lock failure: failed internal micro switch and is the best fix replacement?
Click to expand...

Replace it or replace the motors in it. ;)

rob_bell said:
What’s the best way to identify the noisy bearing? Handling is perfect at the moment :)
Click to expand...

Mine has a slightly noisy bearing when cornering. I can't identify the side yet as it's only a slight hum. I'm going to let it get worse so I can identify the side causing the noise.
 
rob_bell said:
Two problems fixed, two new problems emerge:

1. The passenger door lock now no longer unlocks with the plipper or interior switch and...
2. One of the offside wheel bearings is making a noise.

Couple of questions:
1. What’s the commonest cause of passenger door lock failure: failed internal micro switch and is the best fix replacement?
2. What’s the best way to identify the noisy bearing? Handling is perfect at the moment :)
Click to expand...
Don't know about the bearing but buy a used door mechanism and swap it out. I tried taking apart a mechanism once and wrecked all round me. :oops:
 
Just ordered one off the bay of fleas. Hopefully that'll sort that problem :)

Not sure what to do about my noisy bearing - I can't seem to work out whether its front or rear... And I've still to replace the noisy VCU bearings! :oops:
 
rob_bell said:
I can't seem to work out whether its front or rear..
Click to expand...

Put your phone central in the boot set on video recording then go for a drive. Do the same drive with the phone behind the console near the bulkhead.

You can the play back both recordings through headphones, giving you the same effect as having ears listening in places they can't get.
Just make sure you know which way the phone is orientated so you can work out which side is causing the issue.
 
Cunning plan - I like that! I shall give it a go... The microphones are at the base, so will place these forward, with the screen uppermost. Will likely need to bluetac into place, as it is only ever audible on pretty spirited cornering at the moment!
 
rob_bell said:
Cunning plan - I like that! I shall give it a go...
Click to expand...
I've use this trick many times. I have an old phone, especially for doing this kind of thing.
rob_bell said:
The microphones are at the base,
Click to expand...
Most modern smartphones have mics on both ends, so record in stereo when in landscape. So placing the ends of the phone towards the wheels, allows the sounds to be recorded left to right.

If you have limited memory in your phone, then reduce the image size to minimum. The sound is all you need, not the image.

I have a cheap action cam that I can mount on the underside of the car. This allows me to check bush movement and stuff, when recorded at 60 FPS.
 
A little update:
1. Wheel bearing noise appears to have disappeared for now. My little Hippo flew through its MoT last week with the only comment being rusty suspension components (surface only) - but what do you expect of a 18 year old car that has been used year round? No evidence of bearing play.

2. The three Amigos made a cheeky come back. It's the damp - and some how dampness is entering the right front ABS sensor connector. The 3 amigos disappear once the warmth of the engine dissipates the condensation. I thought I had this solved before the MoT by cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner, dousing the O-ring with silicone spray, and coating the lower connector in Vaseline. This worked long enough to get through MoT - but rudely re-appeared soon after! Re-doused connector terminals in contact cleaner, then smeared Vaseline over the connector terminals and reassembled. So far, so good. Will the amigos make a reappearance? Time will tell.

3. Thermostat started to slightly weep coolant again. This had gone after the previous inspection and "wobble about" - and I knew that it would return, but that was many weeks ago and I secretly had hoped that I'd accidently fixed it. I haven't and I think I'll be replacing the thermostat housing and the coolant rail when I get some time.

Projects to be completed:
1. Change interior rear view mirror for MGF item I bought off ebay
2. Replace the broken AM/FM aerial
3. Replace scuttle panel trim with facelift version without the rubber boots over the bonnet hinges.
4. Trial the tyre pressure monitor - if works satisfactorily, fit more permanently in car - either in centre console (easy installation, but slightly out of sight) or on dash next to clock (more difficult installation, difficult to reverse, but in clear line of sight).
 
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I bought this a while ago, but just not installed it yet (waiting for some free time!):
TPMS.JPG

Irritatingly, I can see that I managed to not include the part number that is clearly printed at the top left of the label - d'oh!
 
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I been looking at that one last night I wonder if it would fit in that little square next to the speedo
 
I thought that too - but it’s largely obscured by the steering wheel in that position.

I was going to use a redundant switch blank - it’ll fit with some modification of the console aperture
 
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