Retro-fit Traction Control to Basic Freelander 1?

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hippoOneDi

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Can't see this anywhere else on the forums- I've got a basic spec W/2000 L series diesel (Di) which doesn't have HDC/ TC or even ABS (no Wabco unit).

Would it be possible to retrofit? I know I'd need the Wabco unit, I guess hubs with ABS sensor holes (not checked mine yet though). Main concern is that I'd have to replace the whole ECU and then have immobiliser problems.

Really asking is it feasable/ worth the effort- mainly going to be used for green laning and hopefully the odd scottish ski trip so thinking TC and ABS would be handy.
 
Freelander CCU.jpg
I've had a quick look at the CCU but not sure which is the model number - I presume it's the 27VT/6EC.
 
Quick ebay check and the 27VT's from TD4's have ABS written on them. Anyone know if there's an ABS and non ABS version for the L series?

Anyone got a wiring diagram for the L series?

Need to check if my drive shafts have reluctor rings too....
 
Anything is possible, but it's a lot of work. I would think the whole harness for the ABS is missing. You might find the hubs have blanking plugs where the sensors should be, but you'll need the correct CV joints that have the ABS rings. Then the sensors, the wiring, the gear lever and switches in the gearbox, then have the ECU and Ipack programmed so they know ABS is fitted.

I'd not bother myself, as the FL1 works well enough without TC, although ABS is a good safety mod.
 
I disagree with Nodge about the TC, traction control on a hippo works wonders when off road, as the TC brakes the spinning wheel transferring to the wheels with grip, thats what makes a hippo so surprisingly capable offroad. But I'm in agreement with nodge on one thing, it would be a pain to do the retrofit, but that is not to say it couldn't be done. One redeaming feature is that the L series weren't networked like the TD4 so it would literally be a wiring job, as there oughtn't to be as much interconnectivity between various systems on an L series as there is on the TD4 generation?
 
Sounds like the ABS and TC would be well worth it and I'm happy enough about the mechanical side but a bit scared of the electrics.
If all the functionality was provider by the wabco unit then hopefully the CCU and ECU would be standard across all models ( but without the extra options enabled).
I think I need to chase up the people on the forum who know the ECU/CCU inside out ( Joe_H seems to be all over it).
For the time being got plenty to do as decat and egr blanks have turned up, then it's 40mm lift though if the ABS was feasible that would be the time to do it as brake lines are fairly corroded so could fit the ABS stuff at the same time.
 
Personally, I would be searching out a vehicle with it already fitted, there are plenty around. It does seem like a lot of work to retrofit but each to their own.
 
It's a fair point, I may do a few light mods and see how it goes. Maybe look to finding another one later on if it's too much of a job, though if I can pick up a good donor car straight swapping everything wouldn't be too bad.
Just that L series diesels are increasingly scare and this one's like new.
 
hippoOneDi said:
Sounds like the ABS and TC would be well worth it and I'm happy enough about the mechanical side but a bit scared of the electrics.
Click to expand...
It's better to have it than not. It's just a lot of work to retrofit, especially if none of the wiring is in place. Your best bet is to check how much harness is missing, and go from there. You might find getting the parts you need will be difficult, as that model hasn't been made for over 20 years, and ABS was only an option on lesser trim specs, so this will compound your troubles.
You need to do more investigations as to what you need, then source those bits before pulling the car apart. ;)
hippoOneDi said:
I think I need to chase up the people on the forum who know the ECU/CCU inside out ( Joe_H seems to be all over it).
Click to expand...

Joe H was just a keyboard warrior, and is now banned from this site, and many others I believe. ;)
 
Any idea where I'd find a wiring diagram for the L-Series Diesel? I've got the original Haynes on it's way so hopefully this will be useful.

Shame Joe_H has gone ( or not by the sounds of it ). Is there anyone on here who's got a good understanding of the early CCU's & ECU's? Apart from the HDC switch on the gear lever and the switch on the pedals I'd assume the rest of the wiring would just be between the CCU & ECU as the Wabco isn't there.

In the TD4 wiring diagram it refers to the ABS ECU- anyone know if it means the Wabco or is this part of the actual ECU?

For my BMW E46 there's a real oem site which has all the diagrams and part numbers- is there a resource like this for the Freelander?

Not going to start messing with anything until I either have the replacement parts partially assembled and ready to fit or a donor vehicle I can transplant bit by bit from- definitely don't want a dead freelander on the drive ;)
 
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Quick look earlier and hubs have ABS sensor holes and reluctor rings are fitted to all 4 CV joints ( and are in good condition) so that makes it alot more feasible.

The ECU is a Bosch Type 4125 (MSB 101071), I see this listed as for the XEDI too so should do the job.

I've seen the ABS ECU for £30 ish ( model SRD100481 is the latest software it seems), sure on my old one the ECU was mounted to the ABS Pump but I've heard it can be under the seat. Anyone know if this is just the facelift models?

Question now is whether I need an 'ABS' loom to connect it all together. I'm pressuming the whole CCU/ECU/ABS loom is one part when fitted as an option.
 
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There were three ABS modules on Freelander 1s,
I think 97-99 had Wabco D and I think it's always under the seat.
2000/2001 or so had Teves Mk20 and after that they had Teves Mk25 (which is what my wife's TD4 has).

I don't know whether your W Reg would have been Wabco D or Teves Mk20, it's right on the line.

In either case I wonder if the correct ECU, ABS, wiring and brake lines could be lifted from a scrapped 1.8 petrol. It would be far easier to lift everything from a complete scrapped vehicle than buying bits piecemeal on ebay. In fact if you had room it would probably be better just to buy a complete donor vehicle.

The only thing is that the ABS module seems to "know" the engine revs so maybe a petrol one won't work.

There are pictures of the live data of these modules http://pscan.uk/features/freelander1.html

I have ECU pinouts of pretty much all of these ECUs (engine and ABS) so it might be possible to figure out how they talk.
 
Quick update, been away so not made actual progress apart from picking up a spares/ repair L series diesel to copy the abs off. It's got the same ECU so looking promising and the abs controller ( below the seat ) and servo are below
IMG_20210507_161303.jpg
IMG_20210507_161221.jpg
 
Not going to use these as it's too good to scrap, just need to suss out if the whole loom is one piece and if so whether the abs wiring was present when abs wasn't (fingers crossed).

Guessing the Freelander loom isn't too complicated anyway, assume once the carpets up it pretty accessible?
 
It's a lot of work, but possible I suspect.
Wouldn't it be easier to simply fit a limited slip rear diff (LSD), which would be better than TC anyway?
To retrofit TC, you'll need to fit all the wiring, all the ABS rings, find the throttle position data from the EDC (which could mean a diagnostic session, or replacement EDC), fit pedal switches and so on.
It seems an awful lot of work, for a minor improvement in off road capability, especially when an LSD would give it better off road capabilities.
 
Hi Nodge, I'd looked at LSD as an easier & better solution. Only saw info on quaiffe (ATB/ geared) type and these only work up until the point when the wheel loses traction completely, esentially they'd work better if it had TC as it gives the LSD something to push against(?) as I understand it.
It's the throttle position sensing that's the biggest worry at the moment ( I was hoping the TC just used the ABS to calculate the speed for descent control). If the wiring looks like a nightmare I might give up keep the one that has it fitted.
If I do it I'd probably fit a quaife to it too and have a near mint L series in a fetching green that's better that when it came out the factory :)
 
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