Restoring my 1966 S2a 109 diesel

prensel · Feb 15, 2021

Early 2019 I had it registered as historic vehicle, 9 seater, with the heritage certificate I received earlier.
And since january this year its even MOT excempt.
According the certificate it was grey on first delivery with a petrol engine.
It (also on the previous V5) now has a diesel engine and looking at the layers of paint I can only see BRG'ish colors but not the grey it should have.

prensel · Feb 15, 2021

Today the tub got removed so now the cleaning and restoring begins...

prensel · Feb 16, 2021

day 3 in the workshop:
Removed some of the old paint and rust from the left leg of the rear chassis to see whats under there.

The tail part had been replaced before and boy is that an awfull type of welding.
I dont it will stick when pulling a trailer so that needs to be grinded off and redone.

Also the centre outrigger has been replaced in the same awfull way so that needs to be replaced or redone as well.

prensel · Feb 18, 2021

Day 4 in the workshop:
Little change of plans: decided to get the chassis shotblasted or acid dipped to get it real clean so have to remove everything from it.
Removed most of the items on the bulkhead and loosened up the lower bulkhead to chassis bolts, These were really stuck...
Did a small test in acid dipping the old nuts 'n bolts to see if thats feasable instead of buying a new batch.
Filled a small jar with half 75% phosphoric acid and half water. Let all the parts soak for the night and this is the result: black bare iron and almost rustfree !
Did not even bother the get them cleaned or degreased first,
These should be easy to get zinc plated (or diy) again.

prensel · Feb 19, 2021

Day 5 in the workshop:
Removed (almost) all parts from the chassis, ready to have it sandblasted next week,
Agreed to have it sandblasted, then returned to my workshop so I can repair/weld all needed parts.
Then return it to have it sandblasted again and primed in epoxy primer and finished in 2k chassis black.

Same procedure with the bulkhead although this will blasted with soda to prevent warpage. Then repaired and blasted again, primed and coated in the original mid-grey color.

Trial fitted the PTO kit I'd received last week and it seems to work

The gearbox is going to be rebuild obviously before reinstalling it.

Blackburn · Feb 21, 2021

prensel said:
Day 5 in the workshop:
Removed (almost) all parts from the chassis, ready to have it sandblasted next week,
Agreed to have it sandblasted, then returned to my workshop so I can repair/weld all needed parts.
Then return it to have it sandblasted again and primed in epoxy primer and finished in 2k chassis black.
View attachment 231320

Same procedure with the bulkhead although this will blasted with soda to prevent warpage. Then repaired and blasted again, primed and coated in the original mid-grey color.
View attachment 231321

Trial fitted the PTO kit I'd received last week and it seems to work
View attachment 231322
The gearbox is going to be rebuild obviously before reinstalling it.

Have you been pressure washing the gearbox if so make sure the oil and any water in it are drained as soon as possible.
I got a spare gearbox with my landrover and by the time I got to want it the gears where all rusty because the seller had pressure washed it and left with water inside.

prensel · Feb 22, 2021

No the gearbox was degreased with a mild solvent and then washed off with normal tapwater 'pressure' and dried with a towel.
But I will take it apart this week anyway to clean and check all internals.

prensel · Feb 22, 2021

Can someone tell me if these long 'ribs' or seams from front to back on the chassis are typically for a series 2a chassis ?
Since the rear cross member was replaced with a aftermarket one where the top is just a flat type of steel i'd like to replace these flat parts with this 'ribbed' type to get the original look back.
I also noted that the bottom is not closed, the extension pieces are of the U-type.

prensel · Mar 3, 2021

Patiently waiting for the chassis and bulkhead to return from the sandblaster I'd decided to go for sandblasting and Parkerising/phosphating some of the old nuts and bolts.

As far a I know this was also originally on the S2a on most nuts and bolts and not zinc plated as on later models was done.

For the suspension and steering parts i've choosen to use satin black POR15 after cleaning and sandblasting them.
This will also (hopefully) give the most original look and best protection instead of the 'home-diy' red-oxide-and-black-paint look.

nathanglasgow · Mar 5, 2021

The long ribs on the main chassis rails are there because it's a series 3 chassis. They were made from two C sections of steel welded together hence the seam. Series 2 chassis were four plates welded together at the edges. So to me it looks like you've got most of a series 3 there with Series 2 bulkhead fitted. The series 3 parts I can see are chassis, front wings, front rad panel, gearbox, doors and rear tub. If you can post up the axle numbers and the numbers on diffs, they will give an idea if they are from a Series 3 too.

TheMegaMan · Mar 5, 2021

nathanglasgow said:
The long ribs on the main chassis rails are there because it's a series 3 chassis. They were made from two C sections of steel welded together hence the seam.

Is that true for all series 3 chassis? My old 1979 chassis didn't have the seam....does that mean it wasn't an original chassis?

tottot · Mar 6, 2021

Swb models stayed with the chassis made by joining 4 sections welded along the edge.
Some late model 2a's had some series 3 items fitted, I came across one that had had a series 3 syncro box from new. So it could be that the clam/seam chassis is what it had from new although that does not fit with it being a 66 model. I noticed in the first pics that your gearbox has a series 3 gear knob and may be an all syncro box, only a number check will tell.
To find more info on your truck contact the Dunsfold landrover collection. They have a lot of info on historic landys.

nathanglasgow · Mar 6, 2021

Late series 3 109 chassis's had the seam. It is a series 3 chassis. Dunsfold Land rover are no more. Philip has retired and is auctioning off all stock. He may keep the collection going tho according to his website. Best advice for the original poster is to join the land rover series 2 forum/club. A huge depth of knowledge there and you will get a definitive answer as to what you have.
www.series2club.co.uk

prensel · Mar 7, 2021

Okay so the mystery continues as in being what my Landy is/was...
According the Heritage Certificate I have requested it was originally delivered as a mid-grey series 2a with a petrol engine, civvy 12V version.
Somewhere along the 55 past years the engine was swapped for a diesel engine and the V5 was also updated and the color on the V5 changed to green.
The past 3 weeks I have stripped a lot of paint from the alloy body parts an there is definately no mid-grey, just green upto the bare alloy.
As far as the rear tub goes it does have the mil spec reinforced L-shaped metal bars behind the 'fenders'. But the chassis does not have the removable gearbox support.
There are a lot of milspec details but I assume these where put on afterwards.
- the VIN is still on the right lower leg and does look originally, not welded or restamped or something.
- door hinges are of the earlier S2a type.
- bulkhead does look s2a style
- bulkhead does have non-originally looking 'ugly' welded on bolts for fitting the diesel filter
- gearbox serial# 90193369 A
- engine serial# cant find it
- front axle serial#: 91141776 B
- front diff says J73 3341 on outer flange, F73 S PB1 2 on large gear/ring,

So, what is it ?
a rebodied s3 chassis with s2a parts and milspec rear tub ?

Restoring my 1966 S2a 109 diesel

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