Replaced intercooler hose, now wont start and oil light on

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brenhaze

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A few days ago found a long split in top intercooler after loss of power and smoke issue, so I replaced top pipe today, my TD4 started ok once.

THEN

A few minutes later it wont start at all, clicking noise but oil light remains on I don't think it is a battery issue.

Any ideas??

Ive checked the dipstick and seems there is some oil still between the two marker points, its not empty.

Im stumped :/ help would be gratefully received

I have been googling and searching the threads and no joy.
 
Thanks I will check solinoid for loose connection and if not will take the pain on my RAC call out for battery charge. Thanks for quick reply
Bren
 
Some more info.
I slammed the bonnet shut after it started and since then the problem occured.
Just tried to jump start, plenty of power in the lights etc.
Rocked back and forth and just clicking.
Shut bonnet again and now no clicking noise but still lots of power with lights,
Only thing I can think of is something has maybe come loose with bonnet slammed??
Any ideas?
 
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As Ming says, you'll need to rebuild your starter solenoid contacts. Kits available off ebay & very common fault. Some folks have also had problems with ignition switch which gives those symptoms though this is less common.
 
Ok thanks, more googling, all seems odd since I closed the bonnet hard it doesn't start and the second time closing it it wont tick now.

Many thanks again for your help guys.
 
Is the small Lucar connector on the starter solenoid clean and tight?
Do you get 12v to it when you turn ignition switch to crank?
 
Thanks, ive been googling and searching site (no joy yet :) )as I am not sure where the spade connector to the starter motor is.
Apologies, im not very clued up but just been googling like mad.
I think something connector may of come loose and reading the various threads it would make sense.
Would or could I of knocked that when replacing the top Intercooler hose?
I will check in the morning when light and feel about for any connectors. It does seem I must of knocked something loose, I will ask my friend to help me check the current to t start motor. Im guessing logically if not enough power then cable disconected somewhere. I just need to find a picture of the spade connector on the starter motor and I can check :)
Huge huge thanks for your help on this.
Bren
 
It's the only push on connector on the starter solenoid.
If you don't get 12v to it then the ignition switch is suspect.
 
Bit off the wall but..... do you think that slamming the bonnet has triggered the fuel cut off ?
try pushing the switch down to reset it I think you will find it on top of the near side /passenger side wing Nr the bulkhead( like I said a bit left field)
 
Have you tried jumping the car? It really does sound like a flat battery - a few light bulbs use mA's, a starter draws Amps and relays, solenoids are in between the two. I have read through your posts quickly - if you haven't tried, then do!
 
Could just be dirty or corroded connections on the heavy duty leads between the battery and the engine. Clean, grease and re-make all connections, especially the negative lead where it is bolted to the engine, it usually gets overlooked.
 
Even the battery connection could be loose. A sharp shock from slamming the lid down could dislodge any dodgy connection.
 
More news chaps!! :)
Firstly thanks for your replies!

Today I checked the reset fuel switch and fuse box.

When I put key in ignition the dashboard lights flicker on and off like a Christmas tree.

I fiddled with a few wires and now the odometer display wont go out and a continuous clicking noise from the passenger near the fuse box.
The fuse box even clicked a few time itself after more wire wiggling.

I think the battery will drain now as if the odometer display wont go out then im guessing its draining juice :(

Bren
 
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