Removing tyres the manual way.

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Locky1978

Active Member
Posts
583
Location
Farnham, Surrey
Hi all.
I'm getting a bit tired of paying people to remove and refit my tyres when I'm getting tube punctures. 6 in just as many weeks.
I've bought a log splitter on the bay with the intention of making it into a bead breaker.

What do you think my chances are of getting Michelin 7.50 10 plys off of standard rims with tyre levers?
 
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You do know that the actual manual machine for removing tyres really doesn't cost that much. Think I've seen them in the machine mart or screwfix catalogue for like 70 quid. Lot cheaper and easier than whacking it with a sledgehammer
 
To be honest I think i would rather just pay someone to do it than risk the OPs method lol.

Or better yet I would buy half decent inner tubes there weren't prone to puncturing :confused:
 
To be honest I think i would rather just pay someone to do it than risk the OPs method lol.

Or better yet I would buy half decent inner tubes there weren't prone to puncturing :confused:

We took some tyres off some rims down the Bristol and West show last year with the aid or a hi-lift and a couple of pry bars. There are some pics knocking about somewhere. I believe that all involved or in close proximity are still alive and well.;):D
 
Hi all.
I'm getting a bit tired of paying people to remove and refit my tyres when I'm getting tube punctures. 6 in just as many weeks.
I've bought a log splitter on the bay with the intention of making it into a bead breaker.

What do you think my chances are of getting Michelin 7.50 10 plys off of standard rims with tyre levers?

No problem at all, that size tyre is quite flexible in the side wall so will come off easily with a pair of levers. The worst bit about michelins is the bead tends to flop upwards and can be a pain, its hard to describe but i'm sure you'll see what I mean. Also, just remember that some landrover rims are backwards :)
 
ohh done that thing back in the days by using a putlock, flat end on tyre next to edge of rim, then drive up the putlock (without falling off)
good dollops of fairy liquid & water with a big brush, a big fecking mallet/hamer and or some good tyre levers.
oh.....take the valve core out first eh ;)

must have done hundreds that way...
but never had freely available bead breakers then..

tried doing a landie wheel the other year - I done it, but nearly killed this old git..
 
Right I'll let you know how this goes then. I've ordered an 8 ton hydraulic log splitter.

I tried the high lift method but I couldn't get the bead to break. Back of the car wasn't heavy enough heh. I didn't try hitting it though.
I've been using michelin tubes but I've either been really unfortunate with the punctures. Or I'm thinking more likely there is some blasting grit caught between the two halves of the rim. I had the rims grit blasted recently, thats when the punctures started.
 

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ohh done that thing back in the days by using a putlock, flat end on tyre next to edge of rim, then drive up the putlock (without falling off)
good dollops of fairy liquid & water with a big brush, a big fecking mallet/hamer and or some good tyre levers.
oh.....take the valve core out first eh ;)

must have done hundreds that way...
but never had freely available bead breakers then..

tried doing a landie wheel the other year - I done it, but nearly killed this old git..

Putlog! :eek:

Were you taking wagon tyres off!?

:confused::D
 
Why are the tubes going? are they tubed rims running "tubeless" tubes?
Tubed rims have a fatter valve neck than tubes for retrofitting to a tubeless rims, so you need an adaptor for the valve or they rub on the shoulder and puncture.
Id give the inside of the rim a rub down and make sure theres no loose rust in there.
 
I'm using Michelin xzl tyres which say tube or tubeless on the rim.
Also I made sure I fitted the valve stem adaptors.
I'm thinking it may be grit stuck in between the two halves of the rim on the inside as I recently had them grit blasted and I painted them. it's always tiny pinhole leaks in the tube. It's not something I would have thought about checking when painting.
 
6 punctures in 6 weeks?? what u doing??? its normally a simple job to break the bead with a hi-lift under the front bumper (engine is pretty heavy :) ) i'd be looking if there was a reason for so many punctures.... think my last flat was four years ago when a valve blew in half....

cheers steve
 
6 punctures in 6 weeks?? what u doing??? its normally a simple job to break the bead with a hi-lift under the front bumper (engine is pretty heavy :) ) i'd be looking if there was a reason for so many punctures.... think my last flat was four years ago when a valve blew in half....

cheers steve

Like he says, I guess there is some grit inside the tyre casing which is puncturing the tubes.

I get about two punctures a year average, but that's with the landy, car, tractor and two trailers, quite a lot of tyres.
 
SOunds goods here's the step by step guide.

Step1 Hit bouncy rubber tyre with big heavy hammer.
Step 2 watch big heavy hammer rebounnnnnnnnn
Step 3 Wake up in Intensive care.... :rolleyes: :crazy:

you may laugh but that's how the tyre men do it with truck tyres. they drive a piece of angle iron between the bead and the rim.
 
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