Freelander 2 (LR2) Removing the Swirl Flaps - What's best?

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Oh boy, coincidentally is what I've found on mine today. Last flap missing. Also the plastic that holds and guides the rod was broken, so they were not operating at all.
Now, the dilema is what damage did it cause of any. Or if it caused in the past and has been sorted, which I doubt because if somebody replaced valves it makes no sense to leave the others on.
I believe for the flap to just pass through and make no damage lottery luck is required. Even if it gets out unnoticed it will clog/damage the catalyst I think.
The engine seems to run fine. A bit noisier than expected and there is more than usual vibration, if the vibration is not coming from the lower mount then it's time for a head fix and gaskets.

@Nodge68 what is the best way to do a compression test on these?

Thanks,
Paul
 
PRO said:
what is the best way to do a compression test on these?
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Two options.
Use a screw in diesel compression tester, which screws in the glow plug hole, although finding a compression tester with an 8mm adapter will be challenging.

The other alternative is to use a compression tester that seals to the injector seat, which might be the best route on the 2.2 engine.
 
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OK thank you, will be a compression test in near future. Finding a cylinder head is challenging but car runs so a new challenge for the summer. Is it a difficult job to remove the cylinder head? Comparing to a K series which I've done a few times in the past.
 
PRO said:
OK thank you, will be a compression test in near future
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I didn't bother with that on mine, as simply cranking the engine over gave me an indication that 1 cylinder was down on compression. However that has improved now the replacement piston has bedded in. There is a slight unevenness in cranking, but it's better than it was.
PRO said:
Finding a cylinder head is challenging but car runs so a new challenge for the summer.
Click to expand...
It is. It took me 8 months to fine a very low mileage (8900) cylinder head. But at only £310 complete with cams and the important matching cam ladder, it was a bargain, and well worth the wait.
PRO said:
Is it a difficult job to remove the cylinder head? Comparing to a K series which I've done a few times in the past.
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It's not any more difficult than doing a K series really, but there's a lot to take off, and I found the working height rather awkward.
The head itself is very light to install, as it is stripped of cams when fitting. The little timing chain needs timing when the cams are fitted.
Otherwise its just a normal engine, with some access issues to the EGR cooler and exhaust manifold.
Lots of bolts need removing from components that bolt to the head, like the RH mount, the fuel filter bracket, the alternator bracket and a few other bits n pieces.

It's about 6 hours work to get the head off, and maybe 8 hours to get everything prepared and refitted correctly. I'd allow 2 full days, as you'll need to replace the timing belt, water pump and tensioner/ idler.
 
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yes if I will find a cylinder head with low mileage and that sort of price I will get it right away :) is the evoque one the same? cause those are more accessible.
 
PRO said:
yes if I will find a cylinder head with low mileage and that sort of price I will get it right away :) is the evoque one the same? cause those are more accessible.
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Early Evoque 2.2 is the same, as is the early Disco Sport, again in 2.2 form.
I'm not sure if the cams on the later engines are different, as the Evoque and DS are more powerful, but if performance increases slightly, then that's a bonus!
 
Yep will roll the dice on that one. Maybe current cylinder head is fixable so I will send it to recon and sell it after.
Not a big fan of skimming if it passes the flatness test. And sure indeed would change timing belt rollers and water pump in the process.
Thank you for the info.
 
There is another question I have in mind. The rockers on these engines are designed to break in half to not bend the valves. Could that be the case here I wonder?
I am guessing if the plastic is stuck between the valve and the piston, it might do just that. However if it's stuck between the valve and it's seat, could it still break the rocker instead.
New rockers are cheaper and easier to manage.
 
PRO said:
The rockers on these engines are designed to break in half to not bend the valves. Could that be the case here I wonder?
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The rockers are supposed to be the weakest link in the valve train, so they bend if overloaded, say when a piston hits a valve.
However all 4 valves in cylinder No2 (where the nut was) were bent in some way, some more bent than others, but all the rockers were just fine!
20210406_192031.jpg

So they're not the weakest link at all, the valves are.
 
Yep ordering a new set of gaskets, timing belt and whatever I can find around. Will pop it out , definitely one cylinder low on compression.
 
PRO said:
Head gasket question, any idea why I have so many options in microcat on my vin? 1-2 holes, mms and all.

View attachment 235185
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The HGs are available in different thicknesses, depending on how much the pistons protrude from the top of the block.
Mine uses the thickest gasket available, with 4 holes IIRC.
There are 4 thicknesses of gasket available IIRC identification being the number of holes in the identification tag.
I've marked the ID tag on mine, in this picture.
20210406_195611.jpg

It's visible without taking the head off, so you can order the correct thickness for replacement.
 
Nvm the number of holes down indicates the thickness. Thanks, I will inspect tomorrow and place the order. Will get it genuine, I will avoid BGA at all cost.
 
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There is another noticed issue with these flaps. There is a diaphragm there which he vacuum relies on to push the rod. When that breaks (which happened in my case) will cause a small vacuum leak and will brake the plastic end of the rod rendering the whole thing useless.
Perhaps a quicker flap disable is to turn the rod to open them and lock it somehow? This does not require removal of the manifold. The flaps will still be there but if opened all the time less chances to play/break.
 
So in my particular case there are some good news. After recoding the injectors (correctly) half the vibrations are gone. Still a bit there, but not enough to warrant opening the engine just yet.
However I remember seeing somewhere you saying that the rockers arms or tappets are getting worn on this engine so I am thinking of changing them while I do the timing belt.
So which ones should I change? I do hear some tics here and there but since I am no diesel fan I don't know what is normal or not.
 
The engine shouldn't make any tappet noise or ticking. However on mine, the issue is with the valves, not the hydraulic tappets or rockers.
The valves don't rotate when the engine is running, which then allows the rocker roller put an indentation in the valve stem top, as it's not rotating to spread the wear evenly over the whole surface. It's this indentation that causes the audible tick when running.
Here's an example from mine. Unfortunately the image doesn't show how deep the indentation is, but it measured at 0.85mm, which is a lot.
Screenshot_20210413-064723_Gallery.jpg

Obviously if you have a slightly bent valve, then this will also cause a tick, as the space between the rocker and valve will be larger than it should, again giving an audible tick.
 
I did get an evoque low mileage head with just the valves, will have to reuse the rest. It was cheaper than new valves, seats and guides + labour on that :)
I will take it to pressure test, and check valves for leaking and that should do it. I also got 4x tappets to replace that cylinder ones in question. Genuine are expensive, and britpart/bearmach are to be avoided. Not a fan of skimming perfectly flat heads.
Maybe even the chain and/or tensioner depending on price. I get a general burning smell coming from the engine so maybe a valve leaks gases or something. No oil leaks
 
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