Removing Rear Tub & Replacing Rear CrossMember

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If you undo all the rear bolts and put an highlift under the spare wheel carrier you can get 3" or 4" of space. Enuff to get a airsaw in, and probably enough to weld the top sections.
 
yeah..i read that, but theres a lot more to it. the sealer they use in the joins is ferkin tough, and theres a floor brace that is behind the tank that overlaps the wheel well underneath, but the floor overlaps ontop, so it looks like the tank has to be dropped to get at the rivets
 
Bushtoy said:
yeah..i read that, but theres a lot more to it. the sealer they use in the joins is ferkin tough, and theres a floor brace that is behind the tank that overlaps the wheel well underneath, but the floor overlaps ontop, so it looks like the tank has to be dropped to get at the rivets
Click to expand...

I'd try the jacking trick 1st if you can't get enough clearance you can always try something else later.
 
Ey Pikey wots the rest of the chassis like? Spring mounts, out riggers an wot have you, cos I've got me owld chassis stuck in me back yard an was off to cut it up an weigh it in this weekend if the weather is OK. If you want any bits off it you can have em if they int rotted.
 
GRUNT said:
Ey Pikey wots the rest of the chassis like? Spring mounts, out riggers an wot have you, cos I've got me owld chassis stuck in me back yard an was off to cut it up an weigh it in this weekend if the weather is OK. If you want any bits off it you can have em if they int rotted.
Click to expand...

It's in really good nick and it's been waxoyled inside and out, along with the floor of the tub I was surprised how solid it all is. Just the crossmember that's goosed and a little bit on the end of the chassis leg.
 
Reet I finally got the rear crossmember welded the last 2" of the sides of the chassis legs were worse than I thought they were and I had to patch them before I could fit the crossmember. as an extra safety measure I made some 3mm plates up and welded them to the chassis & crossmember. (wouldn't want the cross member to come off whilst recovering someone)

The bottom reinforcing plate. made out of 1 piece of 3mm plate. I cut 2 slots in it and bent the centre section down till it matched the angle of the chassis rail
DSCF0762.jpg



Then I added an extra plate to the triangular strut that was all ready there and overlapped that on to the crossmember, and the 1st plate.
DSCF0761.jpg


Then I welded another plate to the top of the chassis rail and the crossmember. and repeated for the other chassis rail.
DSCF0758.jpg


Then when it was all tidied up and cleaned off The Hammerite came out.
DSCF0764.jpg
.

I decided to fit the new front bumper and while I had the Hammerite out, gave it a coat, and painted all the plastics,
DSCF0765.jpg
 
Hello,

Anyone else not able to see the pictures any more?

It says "this image or video has been moved or deleted"

James.
 
i know this topic was started years ago but ive been removing my rear tub and i tohught i got all the bolts out but when you lift it the tub seems to be stuck right in the middle of the tub at the seat box end, is there some bolts inside the cab in the middle or is there something underneath?
 
The truck has bucket seats and harnesses you think they will still be bolted to the seat belt anchorage points?
 
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