Removing rear propshaft

TVRConvert · Jun 5, 2015

Well, after getting under the old girl (the RR not the missus) to grease the UJ's. I noticed that the front UJ on the rear prop has no nipple !!

So, I'm not messing, I'm going to take the prop off and replace both UJ's ~(GKN ok?).

Just one question, my drive is on quite a slope, so I presume that I'll have to chock the wheels, as the trans brake won't be connected to the rear axle.

It won't hold on the P setting through the front axle will it?

wammers · Jun 5, 2015

Unless you want tyre marks tattooed on your chest chock the wheels. WELL.

TVRConvert · Jun 5, 2015

Will do Wammers.

Cheers.

flatlander · Jun 5, 2015

None of my business really, but how will you be lifting it? If the slope's really steep even axle stands might be risky. Sorry if I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs.

Bladerunner919 · Jun 5, 2015

Does it need lifting? I've done propshafts, rear diff and transfer box VC (on my RRC) without any lifting required.

wammers · Jun 5, 2015

flatlander said:
None of my business really, but how will you be lifting it? If the slope's really steep even axle stands might be risky. Sorry if I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs.

There should be enough room if you set EAS to high and put stands under the chassis to catch it in case of a bag blow. One rear wheel will need lifting to take weight off prop.

flatlander · Jun 5, 2015

wammers said:
There should be enough room if you set EAS to high and put stands under the chassis to catch it in case of a bag blow. One rear wheel will need lifting to take weight off prop.

Ah, that's the difference - my 'fender wouldn't know an EAS if it came up and bit it

Bladerunner919 · Jun 5, 2015

flatlander said:
Ah, that's the difference - my 'fender wouldn't know an EAS if it came up and bit it

You wouldn't need to lift a Defender either.

TVRConvert · Jun 5, 2015

Bladerunner919 said:
Does it need lifting? I've done propshafts, rear diff and transfer box VC (on my RRC) without any lifting required.

I've already had it up high on the EAS to spray the nuts / bolts with plus gas, so even my powerfully built frame fits under.

I have a couple of high lift axle stands, the bottle jack that came with the RR, and a 3 ton trolley jack that will all be going under before I do.

wammers · Jun 5, 2015

TVRConvert said:
I've already had it up high on the EAS to spray the nuts / bolts with plus gas, so even my powerfully built frame fits under.

I have a couple of high lift axle stands, the bottle jack that came with the RR, and a 3 ton trolley jack that will all be going under before I do.

Don't forget the bolts are 3/8 UNF so a 9/16 AF socket and spanners will be needed. Not metric ****e.

TVRConvert · Jun 5, 2015

wammers said:
Don't forget the bolts are 3/8 UNF so a 9/16 AF socket and spanners will be needed. Not metric ****e.

Yup, I'm used to non metric, having had MG's Triumphs, Rovers, TVR's etc.

I remember changing the prop on a P6 Rover, when the bloody spanner slipped and hit my finger.

I can safely say AF hurts just as much as metric, but at least you don't have to swear in French!!

stopover · Jun 5, 2015

TVRConvert said:
I've already had it up high on the EAS to spray the nuts / bolts with plus gas, so even my powerfully built frame fits under.

I have a couple of high lift axle stands, the bottle jack that came with the RR, and a 3 ton trolley jack that will all be going under before I do.

A powerfully built frame? you mean a 'Luxury Body' - like mine!

Grrrrrr · Jun 5, 2015

wammers said:
There should be enough room if you set EAS to high and put stands under the chassis to catch it in case of a bag blow. One rear wheel will need lifting to take weight off prop.

I never did that when I took my props off! Mind you, I didn't chock the wheels either, I turned the prop by hand to get each nut down the bottom so I could get my socket on it. Seemed to work OK. I was on a flat surface though.

Henrik97 · Jun 8, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
I never did that when I took my props off! Mind you, I didn't chock the wheels either, I turned the prop by hand to get each nut down the bottom so I could get my socket on it. Seemed to work OK. I was on a flat surface though.

How on earth would you turn the prop with all wheels on the ground?

H.

tomcat59alan · Jun 8, 2015

Henrik97 said:
How on earth would you turn the prop with all wheels on the ground?

H.

push it ?

Grrrrrr · Jun 8, 2015

Henrik97 said:
How on earth would you turn the prop with all wheels on the ground?

H.

Pretty easy on the flat. You grab it and twist (in neutral, obviously). Car rolls backwards or forwards depending which direction.

Maybe I've spent too much time on the internet white water wristing. Forearms like Popeye.

tomcat59alan · Jun 8, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
Pretty easy on the flat. You grab it and twist (in neutral, obviously). Car rolls backwards or forwards depending which direction.

Maybe I've spent too much time on the internet white water wristing. Forearms like Popeye.

Are you being rude?

Henrik97 · Jun 9, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
push it ?

Well, obviously...

Grrrrrr · Jun 9, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
Are you being rude?

Only a little.

Fergie46 · Jun 9, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
Pretty easy on the flat. You grab it and twist (in neutral, obviously). Car rolls backwards or forwards depending which direction.

Maybe I've spent too much time on the internet white water wristing. Forearms like Popeye.

Toooooo much information, deffo an overshare

Removing rear propshaft

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