Removal of entire VCU and prop assembly

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WLJayne

WLJayne

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,810
Location
Derpyshurr
Hi guys,

I'm getting bloody sick of this knocking noise. It's distracting, and causes me to drive overly cautiously for fear of breaking whatever it is. I'm only driving short, unavoidable journeys at the moment but I'd like to actually go places in this car so i want to sort this out once and for all. The only way I can see is to work through a process of elimination. First I did the rear diff mount, no change, fitted the missing bolts between the IRD mounting bracket and the sump, no change. So the next step is to see if it is to do with the VCU or props. I want to remove the whole lot and see if it still complains. Is there anything I should be aware of when removing the VCU and props? I don't intend on keeping it off forever, just until I fix this blasted knock and get the money together for new tyres and VCU.

If that doesn't work I'll try the anti roll bar bushes. After that I don't know what else to try. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Will.
 
I think the general idea is to mark the prop front and back so that it goes back on the same way to avoid potential balancing problems. Can't say this has ever caused me any problems, but with another vehicle, who knows? :)

Try not to flex the whole prop assembly when taking it off to avoid stressing the front CV and the UJs. It's heavy with the VCU attached so it could be worth getting a spare pair of hands to help you remove it.

The bolts that go onto the rear diff flange are a bit tricky to remove, but you should be able to spin the prop round a few degrees and get a spanner on them.
 
Should be fine to run it without the whole prop shaft and VCU as I did the same with mine while waiting for a replacement VCU.
Could I also suggest the rear drive shaft UJs? I believe if they are starting to get play you will hear a knocking when putting or removing load from the drive shaft.
Could also be cracked subframe?
 
Hi WLJ

Removed mine last night, as the VCU is knackered. Me and a mate, 4 axle stands and a set of ramps, 13mm and 17mm spanner, and a couple of star bits, 10 minutes and the whole lot was on the floor. Ran it in mondo, bloody massive difference!! No drag in reverse or full lock, goes like a rocket too. Still have the EGR conversion to do, plus a fluid and filter service, then save up for the VCU and bearings. At the moment the assembly is on the patio down the side of my house, soaking in WD40 in preparation to remove the props from the VCU.
I would recommend you get a mate to help you, makes it far easier to remove it without it bending in all directions. On marking the prop alignment, I'll tell you if it makes a difference to do it or not, because in my haste, I forgot to mark mine........ d'oh!! :rolleyes:
 
Take a look at Hippo's excellent How To on VCU bearing change for a clear guide on how to take the prop shafts and VCU off without damaging anything :D
 
TRXnMe said:
Take a look at Hippo's excellent How To on VCU bearing change for a clear guide on how to take the prop shafts and VCU off without damaging anything :D
Click to expand...

You are right, it is an excellent how to guide, and the higher you can get your FL off the ground the better. Once you're under there, you'll see it's actually even easier to remove.
 
TRXnMe said:
Another ad ^^ for Hippo Ramps TM ;)

He really ought to be flogging them to us :D
Click to expand...

You know what, TRX, I was looking at work for some scrap wood to knock up 4 'Hippo Ramps' of my own, with the obligatory alterations so as not to infringe copyright of course lol But the Design dept lent me all the gear I needed, bless 'em ;)
 
Thanks guys, very helpful as ever :).

So after reading some linky's I don't think that the VCU is the cause - it ain't connected to the rear diff anyways (hence we can rule out UJ's.) So could be the diff bushes, track rod ends, subframe - could even be the fecking exhaust banging around which I'll have to check. Luckily those parts are pretty cheap and I should be able to fit them myself.

Do the ****part offerings live up to their name or are they worth a punt? Ideally I'd like to get these done under my own steam. I could get it all done when I'm getting a new VCU but I'd rather fix it and earn smug points.
 
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WLJayne said:
Thanks guys, very helpful as ever :).


Do the ****part offerings live up to their name or are they worth a punt? Ideally I'd like to get these done under my own steam. I could get it all done when I'm getting a new VCU but I'd rather fix it and earn smug points.
Click to expand...

I've just received a service kit from them, it all seems ok. Got that to do on Sunday, weather permitting. If buying through fleabay, read through their feedback to get an idea. Everything I've bought for mine has been through fleabay, but various different companies.
 
Is there any good info on how I can find out if it is the subframe? Sounds like the knock is comming from the driver's side, if that helps.
 
Ah it works now! A thahsand internets to you sir!! That sure look like it's the culprit, I'll have a good look soon. I've been coming home from work totally cream crackered lately as I'm gearing up to move my business into a new workshop, so I haven't had much steam for Landy repairs. Thankfully I don't have to drive it to work so it can rest up.

Will.
 
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