Releasing a stuck clutch.
- Thread starter clivees
- Start date
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I've had trouble bleeding clutches in the past as the air seems to get stuck in the master and not come down. you just need to keep doing it and it will come right in terms of bleeding. There is no substitute in my experience for the old fashioned method - one on top one below. Open bleed valve pedal down, close it pedal up. Repeat until pressure is adequate.
Only other thought though is that if its all new, there will be adjustment on the master and the slave, so if the air is gone you can adjust it that way.
Jon
Only other thought though is that if its all new, there will be adjustment on the master and the slave, so if the air is gone you can adjust it that way.
Jon
Ryder
Having a senior moment
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If you have left your landy sitting on the driveway for any amount of time with out moving her then you may get the Stuck Clutch problem.
This is when you press the peddle down and get a grinding noise when you try and select a gear.
The problem is that your clutch plate has stuck to the drive plate and is refusing to disengage.
So to fix this there are a number of (Quite brutal) procedures like ramming it in to gear when the engines running etc but this is one method thats more gearbox friendly and quite quick.
1. On a flat surface jack up and place good axel stands under the driven wheels and chock the none driven wheels.
If youre doing this on a permanent 4x4 Landy then you will need to get all 4 wheels off the ground.
2. Release the handbrake.
3. Select 3rd gear and start her (The driven wheels should be turning so watch out of Kids, dogs and cats).
4. Wait until the engine is fully up to temperature.
5. Once up to temperature rev up the engine to about 35 MPH and then as quickly as possible press the clutch pedal and stamp on the brake (I know 3 feet would be handy).
6. Restart her if she has stalled and repeat line 5 until the clutch pedal works as normal.
Note you may hear a bang or crack as the plate releases.
The idea is to use the stored energy in the wheels to break the rust binding the plates together.
Ps
If it falls of the stands and shoots off down the road like a demented exocet then dont blame me.
Is this true? Would you need to get all four wheels off the ground? I would have thought that the action of the differentials on the front and rear would mean that you only needed to get one wheel from each axle off the ground... maybe I have missed the point?
I certainly only lifted one on each axle when I was testing my transfer box to find a fault that only occurred when it was driving down the road.
Fur Trapper
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do you have suicidal tendencies, lift all 4 wheels off ground please
Ryder
Having a senior moment
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Seriously John... couldn't see the reason why. The motor is not going to jump into difflock and even if it did then it wouldn't go anywhere with one wheel of each axle raised. The axle itself is supported in a custom made cradle that is more stable than a simple axle stand so unless the diff itself gives out then all is well!
Seriously John... couldn't see the reason why. The motor is not going to jump into difflock and even if it did then it wouldn't go anywhere with one wheel of each axle raised. The axle itself is supported in a custom made cradle that is more stable than a simple axle stand so unless the diff itself gives out then all is well!
Excellent methods for snapping half-shafts - shock loads. Ideal.
yellow90
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wouldent this put the same amount of force on all wheels when braked?Seriously John... couldn't see the reason why. The motor is not going to jump into difflock and even if it did then it wouldn't go anywhere with one wheel of each axle raised. The axle itself is supported in a custom made cradle that is more stable than a simple axle stand so unless the diff itself gives out then all is well!
now my brain is melting
fordson major1
New Member
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If you have left your landy sitting on the driveway for any amount of time with out moving her then you may get the Stuck Clutch problem.
This is when you press the peddle down and get a grinding noise when you try and select a gear.
The problem is that your clutch plate has stuck to the drive plate and is refusing to disengage.
So to fix this there are a number of (Quite brutal) procedures like ramming it in to gear when the engines running etc but this is one method thats more gearbox friendly and quite quick.
1. On a flat surface jack up and place good axel stands under the driven wheels and chock the none driven wheels.
If youre doing this on a permanent 4x4 Landy then you will need to get all 4 wheels off the ground.
2. Release the handbrake.
3. Select 3rd gear and start her (The driven wheels should be turning so watch out of Kids, dogs and cats).
4. Wait until the engine is fully up to temperature.
5. Once up to temperature rev up the engine to about 35 MPH and then as quickly as possible press the clutch pedal and stamp on the brake (I know 3 feet would be handy).
6. Restart her if she has stalled and repeat line 5 until the clutch pedal works as normal.
Note you may hear a bang or crack as the plate releases.
The idea is to use the stored energy in the wheels to break the rust binding the plates together.
Ps
If it falls of the stands and shoots off down the road like a demented exocet then dont blame me.
fordson major1
New Member
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- puxton
thanks for the info worked a treat
I have freed of a stuck clutch by this method with grate success a few times.
Start up the engine and get it up to working temperature keep it going for as bit longer so the heat spreads to the flywheel.
Switch off , if it is a petrol engine disconnect the coil so that the engine cannot start. Put the hand brake on, also press the foot brake. Press cluch peddle down. Try to start the engine with the starter there will be a bang and the engine will turn over Has alway worked for me.
Haven't tried it on a diesel. But if you can disconect the wire to the fuel shut off it should work.
Start up the engine and get it up to working temperature keep it going for as bit longer so the heat spreads to the flywheel.
Switch off , if it is a petrol engine disconnect the coil so that the engine cannot start. Put the hand brake on, also press the foot brake. Press cluch peddle down. Try to start the engine with the starter there will be a bang and the engine will turn over Has alway worked for me.
Haven't tried it on a diesel. But if you can disconect the wire to the fuel shut off it should work.
Stokey Tony
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Years ago, I had a Lotus-engined Jensen Healey, rear wheel drive, that had the clutch-stuck-on problem every spring. I came up with the Rear End Axle Stand method myself (in the days before the internet), which worked, but was really scary! I remember having 120mph on the clock (maximum inertia), the car shaking around a lot, looking at the neighbour's front, bay window through the garage door, thinking "That's where I'm going if she falls off the axle stands!"
I bought a Series 2A last year, which had been standing 7 years. I expected the clutch problem, but after freeing the pedal and bleeding, the clutch worked first time.
So your Land Rover is superior to a Lotus in some respects (Lots of Trouble, Usually Serious)!
Starter Motor or Fire Extinguisher methods sound much safer.
I bought a Series 2A last year, which had been standing 7 years. I expected the clutch problem, but after freeing the pedal and bleeding, the clutch worked first time.
So your Land Rover is superior to a Lotus in some respects (Lots of Trouble, Usually Serious)!
Starter Motor or Fire Extinguisher methods sound much safer.
