Refit 300tdi gearbox after clutch fork replacement

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davidkab

New Member
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2
I consider myself a competent DIY mechanic. Over 40+ years I have replaced clutches, gearboxes, cylinder heads etc although not all on landrovers.

I have 1996 Defender 90 300tdi. The clutch fork failed; fortunately in my drive but that’s where the luck ran out. After being quoted £££ to replace I decided to tackle myself. I have never had so many seized bolts to undo. Gearbox still in vehicle resting on cross member and supported at the back by a bottle jack. Disconnecting the gear box was the easy bit. The pivot had pushed through the centre of the fork so it was stuck. 3 hours with a junior hacksaw to cut off; then I discovered you could unbolt the pivot. Isn’t hind- sight great?

Replaced the clutch whilst I was about it. All realigned with aid of long socket and checked the hand brake shoes while drive shaft removed.

How to reattach the gear box? I’ve spent over 3 days trying. Engine crane doesn’t work as gearbox centre of gravity lines up with centre seat bulkhead. I’ve tried strops either side etc etc. Then crane hits switch panel. Moving a crane sideways when it is through the doors and doesn't have swivel castors is near impossible.

Constructed a trolley on heavy duty casters like removals use. Using 4 bottle jacks. The 2 older than me are the most reliable. Line everything up but still unable to do last 10cms (4 ins in old money).

My latest idea is some lengths of M10 treaded bar in bottom holes where bolts go between engine and gearbox I’m afraid of them sheering in the engine casing then a whole heap more problems.

I am fed up. Any suggestions? Everything I’ve read says it’s not easy but is it really impossible? Basically on my own and fed up with lying on the drive in puddles. My partner will occasionally pass me tools but now blames for her stinking cold. Help?
 
first get rid of partner...

the 2 lengths of studded bar worked when i did mine in my disco..

the other thing is the injun on a disco tips forward on the mounts without the weight of the gearbox on the back.... put a jack under front of injun to lift it to get bearbox and injun straight.. my mate laid under back axle and used his foot to shove box forward as i guided it onto the threaded bar, then used nuts to pull last bit..
 
engine crane does work you fasten chain to top most drivers side stud securing t/box to g/box just fits nicely behind seat box front edge ,just a matter of lifting bell housing up to mate
 
I would be eternally grateful if someone was able to assist me.

I live just south of Camberley on the Hants/Berks/Surrey border. Fleet services on M3 is about 3 miles away.
 
I would be eternally grateful if someone was able to assist me.

I live just south of Camberley on the Hants/Berks/Surrey border. Fleet services on M3 is about 3 miles away.
I live just outside Woking. If I was not working away from home for three weeks I'd drop by and take a look. No promises but often a fresh set of eyes and hands works wonders.

The studs do work and as already said tip the engine towards the bulkhead with a jack. Double double check the clutch is perfectly aligned or the box will never go on. If you are having to crank on the studs to the point where you think they will snap then something is wrong. Put a slight smear of copper grease on the input shaft splines to help them slide through the clutch plate. Not a lot though. Did you check the clutch plate on the shaft before trying to put it all together as there are several different spline patterns?

Not much use now but I gave up taking gearboxes off engines in a Landy a long time ago. I always take the engine off the gearbox as I find it easier and I can get all the little jobs done in the engine bay while the engine is out. Also saves stripping the interior out.
 
I live just outside Woking. If I was not working away from home for three weeks I'd drop by and take a look. No promises but often a fresh set of eyes and hands works wonders.

The studs do work and as already said tip the engine towards the bulkhead with a jack. Double double check the clutch is perfectly aligned or the box will never go on. If you are having to crank on the studs to the point where you think they will snap then something is wrong. Put a slight smear of copper grease on the input shaft splines to help them slide through the clutch plate. Not a lot though. Did you check the clutch plate on the shaft before trying to put it all together as there are several different spline patterns?

Not much use now but I gave up taking gearboxes off engines in a Landy a long time ago. I always take the engine off the gearbox as I find it easier and I can get all the little jobs done in the engine bay while the engine is out. Also saves stripping the interior out.

Hopefully he's got it sorted now - thread from last november :p
 
I live just outside Woking. If I was not working away from home for three weeks I'd drop by and take a look. No promises but often a fresh set of eyes and hands works wonders.

The studs do work and as already said tip the engine towards the bulkhead with a jack. Double double check the clutch is perfectly aligned or the box will never go on. If you are having to crank on the studs to the point where you think they will snap then something is wrong. Put a slight smear of copper grease on the input shaft splines to help them slide through the clutch plate. Not a lot though. Did you check the clutch plate on the shaft before trying to put it all together as there are several different spline patterns?

Not much use now but I gave up taking gearboxes off engines in a Landy a long time ago. I always take the engine off the gearbox as I find it easier and I can get all the little jobs done in the engine bay while the engine is out. Also saves stripping the interior out.

to be hoped its sorted this thread is 4 montha old!!!
 
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