Rear wheel sticks

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Eogg

Eogg

Member
Posts
11
Location
Ireland
Hi all,
I have a 1967 Series 2a that I have been trying to get on the road. I rebuilt the brakes - new master cylinder, new pipes and new wheel cylinders and shoes all round and the rear nearside wheel sticks when I fill the system with fluid.
I'm thinking it's the wheel bearing or a problem with the differential but I'm hoping someone has an easier possiblity before I start trying to rebuild the axel.
As I am a complete amateur at this i probably haven't given enough information but some help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
When you say the wheel sticks, do you mean it sticks after the brake is applied or that the wheel won't rotate before the brake is applied. Have you done anything to the handbrake?

Col
 
The wheel won't rotate before the brake is applied.
I Haven't done anything to the handbrake. The other three wheels are fine.
 
You can remove the hub flange and halfshaft to prove it is not differential.
Does it do it in both directions?
88 or 109?
 
It's jammed solid, both directions. Before I put the brake fluid in it turned freely.
Also, it's a 88 and before I put the fluid in I ran it while it was up on axle stands and there was a slight wobble in the wheel.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like the brake is stuck on, try backing both adjusters off fully, you will need to do this anyway to get the drum off and take a look. you'll have to do this to determine whther it is the brake or something esle too.
 
Adjuster is fully off. It does seem to be the brake that is stuck on but I've tried everything I can think of brake wise and am wondering if there is anything else that could cause the shoes to jam on. Wheel cylinder has been replaced, I'm 100% that the springs are in the correct positions. And it's just this one wheel. The other three are fine.
 
Could it be badly made shoes? I've read that some need to have a chamfer filed on the edges so they don't foul the drum. Try swapping the shoes from one side to the other see if the wheel jams.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
If it is the shoes hard against the drum causing the stuck wheel, you will have a lot of trouble getting the drum off. If the drum comes off without too much drama, the problem is in the drive to the wheel or the bearing. When you put the fluid in, did you then bleed the brakes. I wonder if the the slave cylinder piston to that wheel has jammed in the out position.

Col
 
Eogg said:
It's jammed solid, both directions. Before I put the brake fluid in it turned freely.
Also, it's a 88 and before I put the fluid in I ran it while it was up on axle stands and there was a slight wobble in the wheel.
Click to expand...

Can't imagine any issue that would cause one wheel to lock on by simply adding brake fluid. Having a wobble in the wheel would suggest the drum is not fitted flush against the hub if that's the case the drum must be fouling on something not allowing it to get fully against the hub, badly made or incorrectly fitted shoes would be most obvious things to look at.
 
I'm wondering if a shoe has gone over an adjuster and got wedged? Or a piston gone too far and got stuck? I don't think there's any escape from taking the drum off and that could be quite tricky if the shoes are wedged.
 
Eogg said:
It's jammed solid, both directions. Before I put the brake fluid in it turned freely.
Also, it's a 88 and before I put the fluid in I ran it while it was up on axle stands and there was a slight wobble in the wheel.
Click to expand...

Any think it might a half shaft in the process of breaking, you know that moment when it goes 'cheesey' before it snaps off ....?
 
Is there some free play on the master cylinder pushrod
Is it stuck solid or will rock back and forth slightly( few mm)
can you back off the bleed screw in that wheel cylinder and leave open then try turning wheel in neutral
 
Last edited:
Hi all,
Thanks for all the replies. I am getting the boiler in the garage replaced tomorrow so I had to take the LR off the axle stands and shove it out of the way in the garage. Hopefully I'll get it back on the stands on Tuesday and can come back with more info on how it turns.
 
steve2286w said:
Is there some free play on the master cylinder pushrod
Is it stuck solid or will rock back and forth slightly( few mm)
can you back off the bleed screw in that wheel cylinder and leave open then try turning wheel in neutral
Click to expand...

I've heard this about the master cylinder before. Would it affect only one wheel?
Could you explain it a bit more, I think there's a bit of free play but I'm not sure I'm talking about the right bit.
 
wireman said:
Could it be badly made shoes? I've read that some need to have a chamfer filed on the edges so they don't foul the drum. Try swapping the shoes from one side to the other see if the wheel jams.
Click to expand...

Can you do that? You might be able to swap the trailing shoe, but the leading shoe has the adjuster peg that means they can only be fitted on the appropriate side, doesn't it?
 
Eogg said:
so I had to take the LR off the axle stands and shove it out of the way in the garage.
Click to expand...
So did you manage to move it by pushing
Re the adjustment see below point 23, perhaps it could affect one wheel depending on clearance ,
9740F1E7-1D1F-4BAA-A7AF-9AF2B242106B.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Help with brakes
Replies
8
Views
820
c0w3h
C
yfo866
Has anyone got any tips for bleeding 101 brakes?
Replies
12
Views
2K
yfo866
yfo866
M
L322 3.0 2006 Vogue droning noise at 30mph and above
Replies
9
Views
876
pwood999
pwood999
F
rear wheel bearing question
Replies
3
Views
997
frenchdave
F
chemmie
Rear wheel hub adventures
Replies
12
Views
1K
chemmie
chemmie
Back
Top