L322 Rear tie rod stubborn much!!!

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youmitegetian

Active Member
Posts
822
Location
evesham
So I replaced the tie rods on the front of my rangie and figured I ought to get it aligned,
Couldn’t do it because the rear os is way off aligned, had a look and it’s the same sort of system as the camber adjustment,
Easy I thought.
Wrong. It’s near impossible to get a socket on one end and fully impossible in the other, and I can’t budge the bloody thing, I’m guessing it’ll need to be replaced anyway but anyone have a way round it?
Plus what size is the bolt? I reckon it must be 20-21 mm maybe, which is typical as that’s a spanner size I don’t have. I tried to move the 18 mm nut but it’s solid.
 
Just been there done that, spanner size 21mm or 13/16 af needs to be a ring, your best bet is to order a new bolt and the washers that go with it then cut the bolt each side of the bush. The wheel end I had to cut into the nut with a sharp chisel to get it to let go, I used a reciprocating saw with metal cutting blade in it to cut the bolt through the bush.
 
Great, sounds like a fun job, where did you get the parts from?
I`m in Lincoln so Rimmers are 15 minutes away from me, they had the oem arm in stock and the bolt but had to order in the washers from Land Rover and it was a good job I got them as the nut and washer was just a lump of rust. Some body on here suggested putting the bolt in the other way round so its far easier to tighten the nut and it is so whoever it was thank you for that idea. For now I`v just kind of eyed both the wheels up with the front one till its tracked up, cant get it in till the 17th.
 
I’ve ordered the bits from island 4x4, everything except the washers, they weren’t a stock item so I’ll get those from the local Land Rover specialist, not looking forward to my Saturday job lol
 
I had the same issue and did what KDS suggests. My old Subaru, VW and Audis had the same issue. Pretty common problem.

Put some anti seize on the bolt shaft on reinstall - will help for a year or two if you have to go back in for future repairs and/or alignment.
 
Same problem and solution here although my reciprocating saw was air powered and very weak, took me about an hour to cut through the bolt.
 
Same problem and solution here although my reciprocating saw was air powered and very weak, took me about an hour to cut through the bolt.
Didnt bother dragging the compressor out just plug it in and go, took me a while too but then I do suffer from old age and poverty (range rover owner on a pension). If anybody wants part numbers they are, bolt RYP 501160,plain washer KYF 500080, nut RYH 501100, and the very special washer RG1000012.
 
I had the same issue and did what KDS suggests. My old Subaru, VW and Audis had the same issue. Pretty common problem.

Put some anti seize on the bolt shaft on reinstall - will help for a year or two if you have to go back in for future repairs and/or alignment.


when I re-did the suspension on the Boxster, having had to cut the originals out, I did just that, copper grease on the bolts and nuts and torqued them up, 4 years later when I pulled the suspension apart to replace the steering rack, it all undid and slipped apart without drama.

what I would suggest also, is clear underseal on the bolt heads and nuts, when dry to stop road minerals rotting the bolts from the outside, leaving not a lot for a spanner or socket to mate to.

of course if you live in Nevada or California, rotten bolts isn't an issue like it is in Minnesota, UK, or Ireland
 
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