P38A Rear screen heater

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
All relays back in and battery disconnected and on charge. I'll check readings tomorrow lunchtime. One thing I did notice when disconnecting the battery was the clamp on the negative terminal, while not slack, wasn't exactly tight. I'll get the clamps changed once the battery problem is solved.
 
Sonnycbr said:
All relays back in and battery disconnected and on charge. I'll check readings tomorrow lunchtime. One thing I did notice when disconnecting the battery was the clamp on the negative terminal, while not slack, wasn't exactly tight. I'll get the clamps changed once the battery problem is solved.
Click to expand...
Use a screwdriver to prise them open, they will then slip on to the terminal further and you'll be able to tighten them
 
Sonnycbr said:
All relays back in and battery disconnected and on charge. I'll check readings tomorrow lunchtime. One thing I did notice when disconnecting the battery was the clamp on the negative terminal, while not slack, wasn't exactly tight. I'll get the clamps changed once the battery problem is solved.
Click to expand...

I used a bit of copper pipe as a spacer for MrGorsky's battery. It fit inside the clamp quite nicely with a bit of fettling.
 
Results of testing over the weekend:
Battery disconnected, relays in......charged overnight to 12.7V. Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery disconnected, relays out.......charged overnight to 12.7V Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery connected, relays in........would only charge to 10.5V Dropped to 10.1V after 4 hours.
Advise needed and welcomed.
 
Sonnycbr said:
Results of testing over the weekend:
Battery disconnected, relays in......charged overnight to 12.7V. Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery disconnected, relays out.......charged overnight to 12.7V Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery connected, relays in........would only charge to 10.5V Dropped to 10.1V after 4 hours.
Advise needed and welcomed.
Click to expand...
If the battery dropped to 11.2 volts after 6 hours whilst disconnected, the battery is knackered.
I don't know the output of your charger, but more than 24 hours may be needed to fully charge the battery and the voltage should rise to more than 12.7 volts, it should settle to 12.7 about 1 hour after coming off charge.
 
Sonnycbr said:
Results of testing over the weekend:
Battery disconnected, relays in......charged overnight to 12.7V. Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery disconnected, relays out.......charged overnight to 12.7V Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery connected, relays in........would only charge to 10.5V Dropped to 10.1V after 4 hours.
Advise needed and welcomed.
Click to expand...
If the battery is completely disconnected it make no difference whether the relays are in or out.
Battery's knackered.
A very rough guide to battery state: www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/car-battery-voltage-guide-34-w.asp

When it was connected did you check to see if the heated screens were hot?
 
On the subject of ordering a new battery, I've been online to order the Hancook, as that was recommended on here for me last time, and I can't find one anywhere. What other makes are recommended? I want a good battery that will hopefully last a bit longer than my last two.;)
 
Ref loose battery terminal(s), I took the T bolt and nut plus cone thing off and ran a 1mm slitting disc in a grinder to open up the split. This allowed it to close up more when tightening the nut. If you look at the clamp when it's tightened up you will probably see that the sides of the split are touching and can't close up anymore to clamp the terminal.
The earth lead has two fixings along its length, one goes to the engine, that's easy to spot , the other is bolted down by the inner wing under the ecu/fusebox area. Take it off and clean the earth contact points. You can do all that whilst waiting for the new battery:)
 
Sonnycbr said:
On the subject of ordering a new battery, I've been online to order the Hancook, as that was recommended on here for me last time, and I can't find one anywhere. What other makes are recommended? I want a good battery that will hopefully last a bit longer than my last two.;)
Click to expand...

On a P38A the Platinum 642X.
 
Sonnycbr said:
Definitely a bit of a gamble.....just paid £164 for a battery.;)
Click to expand...
Feck...pls check the alternator charging voltage too. Cd be that the alternator is bad, or just needs an uprated Voltage Regulator (just 20 quid...) and grab youself a little voltage reader thingy off ebay to go in the cigar lighter socket
 
Last edited:
romanrob said:
Feck...pls check the alternator charging voltage too. Cd be that the alternator is bad, or just needs an uprated Voltage Regulator (just 20 quid...) and grab youself a little voltage reader thingy off ebay to go in the cigar lighter socket
Click to expand...
Took car to auto electrician today. Alternator fine. They’ve found a 50 amp fuse under the bonnet that’s creating a massive drain continuously and appears to do nothing. . If the car starts tomorrow and everything seems ok I’ll leave it out but has anyone heard/seen anything like this? The sparky says the only thing he’s seen like it was on a BMW engine and it was a heater.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

pwood999
P38A Sticky Flaps
Replies
7
Views
379
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
L
L322 L322 infotainment
Replies
4
Views
374
LR-hobbs
L
Freddie17
Freelander 2 (LR2) Stand-alone CarPlay screen
Replies
0
Views
131
Freddie17
Freddie17
peaky1979
Rear height sensor
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
backinblack
backinblack
P
L322 Flickering rear lights
Replies
18
Views
675
Parkheadbhoy
P
Back
Top