Rear drums stuck. Bah.

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congo181

Well-Known Member
Posts
519
Location
Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
So I finally got to the point in the rebuild where I could drive the ‘87 110 but it appears that both the drums are seized.
I’ve got the retaining screw out and backed off all 4 of the adjusters but even with a M10 bolt wound in the hole and some Thor persuasion they’re not budging.
What’s the next step!??
 
With a helping hand...I used two strong flat bladed screwdrivers 180deg apart and lever in the gap between drum and backplate, keep as much pressure on as you can then tw@t the drum lip with a hammer rotating regularly.
One of the reasons I went disc brake Salisbury.
 
Well the cylinders are well past it.
Should I recon the original ones with Britpart
seal sets at £4 or fit new Delphi cylinders at £16 each or LR ones at £44 each?
 
Examine the bores carefully, any scratches or corrosion and you are probably wasting time and some money resealing them. You may find the brake pipe fittings or bleed nipples are seized in so try those first.
If they are jammed then new is the best option, Delphi is fine.
 
Examine the bores carefully, any scratches or corrosion and you are probably wasting time and some money resealing them. You may find the brake pipe fittings or bleed nipples are seized in so try those first.
If they are jammed then new is the best option, Delphi is fine.
The bleed nipples are ok but I’ll check the unions. I think I’m the long run it makes more sense to fit new cylinders. It’s not like they’re loadsamoney.
Gives me a chance to strip and clean the back plates and drums too…
 
The bleed nipples are ok but I’ll check the unions. I think I’m the long run it makes more sense to fit new cylinders. It’s not like they’re loadsamoney.
Gives me a chance to strip and clean the back plates and drums too…
Got the unions unscrewed ok but the pistons are seized on both sides. I’m sure I could get them sorted and working again but new seals would be required all around anyway.
Got a pair of Delphi ones on order.
 
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