Freelander 1 Rear Diff Pinion Seal

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1997 Discovery

1997 Discovery

Active Member
Posts
539
Location
Near Worthing, West Sussex, UK
Hello,

Looking at replacing my rear pinion seal as it is leaking.

Is there a good diy method with hand tools. I have seen the workshop manual pictures and it looks ok, or is the best left to a specialist.

I am in the process of changing the VCU and bearings as I write this, so thought if I am going to replace the seal then now is the time to do it.

Thanks
 
It's not a difficult job tbh. There are 2 methods for refitting the nut in the same place and both work ok. First is to count the exact number of turns the nut needs to remove it. When refitting, just count the same number back on.
You can also measure the torque needed to release the nut, then re tighten the nut to the same torque again. The very best way to do the job requires removing and stripping the diff completely. This is beyond the scope of most home mechanics;)
 
I like the counting method, I did buy the collapsable washes and new bolts as well the seal, just in case.

Kinda of hoping I don't have to go down that far though, just remove bolt and seal, or is that a big no no, and must replace the washer to.

Thanks for the reply
 
1997 Discovery said:
I like the counting method, I did buy the collapsable washes and new bolts as well the seal, just in case.

Kinda of hoping I don't have to go down that far though, just remove bolt and seal, or is that a big no no, and must replace the washer to.

Thanks for the reply
Click to expand...

Won't need the collapsible spacer, unless you are doing a complete strip down;)
Just put the handbrake on and count the turns of the nut. Pull out the old seal. Knock in the new seal. Grease the flange seal face, then refit. Then refit the nut with the same number of turns. Make sure the nut feels tight again, job done ;)
 
1997 Discovery said:
Perfect :) I be doing that then, as soon as I have got someone to remove the front prop off the VCU - as I have given up :(
Click to expand...

If I still lived in Redhill, I'd pop over and do it for you. Sadly I don't. It also means I can't get a decent kebab anymore either:(
 
Not yet. When I fitted the last seal there appeared to be evidence of oil discharged from the breather pipe and as this car as doesn't know what off roaring is I did not bother.

I'm planning to replace it again but this time Intend to remove the diff cover as well for investigation purposes. Last time I let the oil drain for a week and whilst I did not measure it it looked like at least a litre of oil came out but I could only get half a litre in before it started to overflow, any suggestions on what to use to clear the diff pipe if it's blocked?
 
Rimini-Scott said:
Not yet. When I fitted the last seal there appeared to be evidence of oil discharged from the breather pipe and as this car as doesn't know what off roaring is I did not bother.

I'm planning to replace it again but this time Intend to remove the diff cover as well for investigation purposes. Last time I let the oil drain for a week and whilst I did not measure it it looked like at least a litre of oil came out but I could only get half a litre in before it started to overflow, any suggestions on what to use to clear the diff pipe if it's blocked?
Click to expand...

How's the VCU? Are all the tyres the same make type and size, with the newest on the back?
Diff leaking is one of the symptoms of VCU lockup;)
 
VCU is fine, five matching tyres with the newest on the rear. I did have saggy VCU bushes though which have both been replaced (also replaced rear diff input bearing)

IRD output seal leaking also, my thoughts are a sagging prop has put strain on the seals.
 
Rimini-Scott said:
VCU is fine, five matching tyres with the newest on the rear. I did have saggy VCU bushes though which have both been replaced (also replaced rear diff input bearing)

IRD output seal leaking also, my thoughts are a sagging prop has put strain on the seals.
Click to expand...

Both the IRD output and diff pinion use taper bearings. There shouldn't be any play in them and definitely not enough to cause seal leakage. It it very strange how both sets of seals leak though.
 
I replaced the diff taper bearing which did have some signs of wear (no end float though) before I change the seal again I might clean the leak up and give it quarter of a turn, again I could not detect any play once refitted. I'd used the "marking method" maybe it was not quite tight enough still in the first place.

Sorry OP not trying to hijack your thread hopefully some of this will be helpful to you to.
 
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