rear diff mounts replacement

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essexpestcontrol

New Member
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484
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grays, essex
so a simple question to those in the know, I have the new diff mounts, and will be jacking up each side and placing the rear on axle stands, but where? I'm thinking that I dont want them on the diff anywhere, as that would put pressure on getting the bolts out, correct or not?

could I place them next to the rear jacking point?

suggestions please
 
hi I would put it on ramps to do this job as you may need to drop the sub frame as many have to and yet on some they can manage without, the sub frame bolts must be 190nm or 140lb this is a MUST figure and not mythical because if you do not tighten them up properly then you risk either the bolt tearing the nut out of position or even cracking the body in that location. diff to mounting to sub frame bolt is 120nm or 89lbs
diff to mounting bolt is 65nm or 48lbs hope this helps
 
but surely, having the rear wheels on ramps will put pressure of the diff, and therefore pressure on the nuts/bolts, making them harder to remove and replace, I'm thinking with the car supported on axle stands, but not on the axle, and rear tyres removed, the diff in effect is floating?

if I'm correct, its just where to put the stands?
can jack up car on rear points, then perhaps put stands next/near to jacking point?
 
Put car on ramps so you can get under it. Then lift the rear end a little bit to take some of the weight of the car, but not all of it. just enough so the rear frame will lower when the bolts are undone. Then undo bolts. That's what I did. Some will say you can do it without this and many have, but mine wouldn't. Even putting the mount in as the old one came out didn't work. Diff loose and pushed to one side etc. Some do some don't.
 
The trick is moving the diff out the way. The more you can do that, the easier the job. Diff is heavy so be careful.
 
Put car on axle stands on rear subframe, remove front mount, remove drivers side rear mount then replace front then drivers side, then fit passenger side last. Removing driver side rear mount allow diff to move enough to extract and insert front mount. Easy
 
Changed all three mounts on mine this afternoon. Following Hippo's excellent write up, I reversed the car up on to a set of ramps to give me extra room for access. Slackened off all bolts on the three mounts first then removed the r.h. rear mount. Moved then onto the front mount-I agree that it takes a bit of pushing and twisting to get the mount out and the new one in but it's just a matter of persevering and getting the angle right. After the front mount was fitted, I inserted the bolts and left them finger tight. Replaced the rear r.h. (U.K. drivers side) mount and also left the bolts finger tight. Finally removed and replaced the rear l.h. mount (U.K. passenger side) then tightened all bolts starting with the rear l.h. followed by rear r.h. and finally the front mount. Access to the bolts is not too bad but not much room to swing a normal 1/2" ratchet for the top diff. bolt on the l.h. mount as the rear silencer (TD4) restricted movement to a couple of "Clicks" at a time.
I did it without resorting to my usual cussing without dropping the subframe or bending mounting brackets out of the way but I agree that dropping the subframe slightly would assist with removal of the front mount but the job would, overall, take longer.
Just remember that the longest protrusion of the bush from the mount bracket faces towards the diff. and the rear brackets are "Handed"- a mirror image of each other. I say this just in case you open the boxes, take the mounts out and put them in a pile !!
From start to finish, took me about an hour.
I gave the bolts a smear of copper grease before reassembly
Hope this helps
Spanner sizes:
Diff to mount bracket 13mm A/F
;)
Mount to subframe 15mm A/F
 
Put car on axle stands on rear subframe, remove front mount, remove drivers side rear mount then replace front then drivers side, then fit passenger side last. Removing driver side rear mount allow diff to move enough to extract and insert front mount. Easy

Changed all three mounts on mine this afternoon. Following Hippo's excellent write up, I reversed the car up on to a set of ramps to give me extra room for access. Slackened off all bolts on the three mounts first then removed the r.h. rear mount. Moved then onto the front mount-I agree that it takes a bit of pushing and twisting to get the mount out and the new one in but it's just a matter of persevering and getting the angle right. After the front mount was fitted, I inserted the bolts and left them finger tight. Replaced the rear r.h. (U.K. drivers side) mount and also left the bolts finger tight. Finally removed and replaced the rear l.h. mount (U.K. passenger side) then tightened all bolts starting with the rear l.h. followed by rear r.h. and finally the front mount. Access to the bolts is not too bad but not much room to swing a normal 1/2" ratchet for the top diff. bolt on the l.h. mount as the rear silencer (TD4) restricted movement to a couple of "Clicks" at a time.
I did it without resorting to my usual cussing without dropping the subframe or bending mounting brackets out of the way but I agree that dropping the subframe slightly would assist with removal of the front mount but the job would, overall, take longer.
Just remember that the longest protrusion of the bush from the mount bracket faces towards the diff. and the rear brackets are "Handed"- a mirror image of each other. I say this just in case you open the boxes, take the mounts out and put them in a pile !!
From start to finish, took me about an hour.
I gave the bolts a smear of copper grease before reassembly
Hope this helps
Spanner sizes:
Diff to mount bracket 13mm A/F
;)
Mount to subframe 15mm A/F

cheers guys, just what I wanted to hear
 
Put car on axle stands on rear subframe, remove front mount, remove drivers side rear mount then replace front then drivers side, then fit passenger side last. Removing driver side rear mount allow diff to move enough to extract and insert front mount. Easy
thanks Austen I will try that way next time
 
Jack, axle stands, and about 30mins, can't see why you'd have to drop the subframe! You can take em all of and the diff won't fall out, if you bolt the new ones to the diff and not the body you get a lot of wiggle room then bolt it up solid when they're on!
 
I can testify to that! I've just done the job by only undoing the mounting bolts and, with a bit of a shake and jiggle the mounts all come out without subframe bolt jiggery-pokery. You just need to move the diff around a bit to create enough space for the mounts to be withdrawn and installed through.
 
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