Rear diff and driveshaft removal

was G13SJC not trying to achieve switchable permanent four wheel drive? It was my (probably flawed) thinking that the VCU contains silicon gel and two sets of plates, one connected to the front prop, one set connected to the rear. When the front wheels start to slip, the different speeds of the plates cause shear in the silicon gel in the VCU which causes it to get hot and solidify, thus locking the two sets of plates together and giving four wheel drive. When both props are once again turning at the same speed, the plates rotate at the same speed, so the shear stops, the gel cools down and the plates slip again.
I was thinking of mimicking this shear by artificially heating the gel, using say, trace heating on the outside of the vcu.

or was G13SJC trying to do the opposite and have a permanent switchable 2wd, or have I just got it all round me arse again ?

wigleytuff said:

was G13SJC not trying to achieve switchable permanent four wheel drive? It was my (probably flawed) thinking that the VCU contains silicon gel and two sets of plates, one connected to the front prop, one set connected to the rear. When the front wheels start to slip, the different speeds of the plates cause shear in the silicon gel in the VCU which causes it to get hot and solidify, thus locking the two sets of plates together and giving four wheel drive. When both props are once again turning at the same speed, the plates rotate at the same speed, so the shear stops, the gel cools down and the plates slip again.
I was thinking of mimicking this shear by artificially heating the gel, using say, trace heating on the outside of the vcu.

or was G13SJC trying to do the opposite and have a permanent switchable 2wd, or have I just got it all round me arse again ?

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I'm not involved with the switchable 4WD - although it is a great idea.

I'm just investigating ways of running in 2WD either permanantly, or temporary while i get my diff overhauled.

Regards,

Steve

The Mad Hat Man said:

let us know how it goes.

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I had a look on Friday and noticed one small issue. If I was to remove the rear driveshafts as a complete unit I may have a problem with the ABS sensors??

As luck would have it I was discussing the removal of the rear driveline with a mechanic friend of a friend. He enquired why I was going to remove the diff etc and when I told him that the diff was noisey he mentioned that he had a new unit at his premesis which was not required and going spare!!

I now have a later type diff manufactured in April 2006 and after a good go today have fitted the new diff. All thats left is to refit the four tie bar bolts, fill the unit with oil and refit the rear wheels.

So as far as my idea goes, I will continue to run in 2WD (Mondo), but if problems reappear I may split the driveshafts and test my theory in future.

I think that if the end of the driveshaft and driveshaft nut is left fitted then this should be a viable solution (Of course removing the gaitor and cleaning any grease from the cup.)

Thanks to all for your input on this topic.

Regards,

Steve

G13SJC said:

Just had a thought on the way home - I could undo the CV gaiter clip (large one), seperate the joint nearest the wheels and leave the shaft in place. If the gaiter is completely removed and the grease cleaned, then hopefully should pass an MOT.

When (and if) I replace the rear drive shafts, I could use a couple of large jubilee clips to secure the CV boot to the cup/shaft again.

This would hopefully keep the wheel bearing happy.

I'm gonna sleep on it and investigate tomorrow.

Regards,

Steve

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Sounds like a plan. The jubilee clips shouldnt really be used on the rotating joint due to unbalanced centrifugal forces. You need the thrift fit tool that crimps the band around the gaitor.

I have cheated before and used some fine garden wire (Plastic coated). Wrap it around the gaitor so it fill the recess in the rubber. Then twist off under tension and neatly tuck away from any MOT inspectors. It does a grand job and just as oil/grease tight as the real thing

stig said:

rear driveshafts do not come into the mot test

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Anything with a boot or a gaitor must be intact. Its a bit like saying that the rear wheel bearings dont matter in an MOT.

The laws regarding MOT in Mainland Britain differ from N.I...... MOT services here are Government regulated, no private MOT garages.

Northern Irelander said:

I have cheated before and used some fine garden wire (Plastic coated). Wrap it around the gaitor so it fill the recess in the rubber. Then twist off under tension and neatly tuck away from any MOT inspectors. It does a grand job and just as oil/grease tight as the real thing

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I have used wire too - mine was silver and a bit thicker than the garden stuff. I kept twisting until nice and tight and then folded over.

Can the official clips be bought seperately from the driveshaft boots?? I've always had to by a complete kit just for the clip.

Regards,

Steve

G13SJC said:

I have used wire too - mine was silver and a bit thicker than the garden stuff. I kept twisting until nice and tight and then folded over.

Can the official clips be bought seperately from the driveshaft boots?? I've always had to by a complete kit just for the clip.

Regards,

Steve

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I dont think so, not unless you know someone in the trade. There are the kits as you mentioned, or it comes in rolls of several metres with separate fasteners