Rear brakes TD4

Philgt50 · Sunday at 17:00

Hello all, can anyone tell me if the rear drums on my 2006 FL1 TD4 3 door are a different size or anything to the 5door.
Last time I bought shoes I don’t remember there being any difference but that was a while ago. But I ordered some drums that were supposed to fit and found out today that they didn’t.
If anyone knows the part numbers that would be really helpful too.
Or even a good place to order drums, shoes and springs from.
Still having issues with handbrake and need to change things to get it working I think. Thanks

GrumpyGel · Sunday at 17:46

I think you will find they are different to the 5 door built before 2000, and the 3 door.

Same as a 5 door built 2000+ though.

Philgt50 · Sunday at 17:56

GrumpyGel said:
I think you will find they are different to the 5 door built before 2000, and the 3 door.

Same as a 5 door built 2000+ though.

Well that’s what I thought but I am confusing myself looking through adverts on EBay that keep telling me that the bits won’t fit!
I am sure I had no problems with the brake shoes

andyfreelandy · Sunday at 18:38

The ebay compatability guidance is quite random.

Especially brakes. I have had sets of pre 2000 disc pads arrive when I ordered post 2000. Many suppliers think all FL1s are the same. Easiest to do you own research and buy what you think.

GG is right about any difference being 2000 based year difference. Easy to identify as ABS sensors are different. Pre 2000 are round and post 2000 are rectangular with a fixing bolt.

The problem with handbrake on the FL1 is that the rear brakes don't work too hard and so the drums and linings get glazed.

Busting the glaze helps but new shoes and drums with correct lubrication on the shoe sliders usually sorts a duff handbrake.

Be sure to completely slacken the adjuster under the arm rest in the car. Then do the brake applications to get the auto adjusters to remove shoe to drum clearance, assuming they work, if not intervene with a screwdriver on the ratchets or replace the adjusters and the mechanism.

Then adjust handbrake cable under arm rest to just rub brakes when on 1 click of handbrake. Ensure it frees when released and good to go !!

Philgt50 · Sunday at 19:47

andyfreelandy said:
The ebay compatability guidance is quite random.

Especially brakes. I have had sets of pre 2000 disc pads arrive when I ordered post 2000. Many suppliers think all FL1s are the same. Easiest to do you own research and buy what you think.

GG is right about any difference being 2000 based year difference. Easy to identify as ABS sensors are different. Pre 2000 are round and post 2000 are rectangular with a fixing bolt.

The problem with handbrake on the FL1 is that the rear brakes don't work too hard and so the drums and linings get glazed.

Busting the glaze helps but new shoes and drums with correct lubrication on the shoe sliders usually sorts a duff handbrake.

Be sure to completely slacken the adjuster under the arm rest in the car. Then do the brake applications to get the auto adjusters to remove shoe to drum clearance, assuming they work, if not intervene with a screwdriver on the ratchets or replace the adjusters and the mechanism.

Then adjust handbrake cable under arm rest to just rub brakes when on 1 click of handbrake. Ensure it frees when released and good to go !!

Nice one thanks a lot. So if I was to intervene, because I strongly suspect the auto adjuster doesn’t work, i slacken off handbrake adjuster under arm rest, then I turn ratchet to get shoes just rubbing, then adjust handbrake cable?
I think I will get the garage to retest the handbrake but if they still aren’t happy I am going to get new drums and shoes and strip and clean it all. I think the plus side is that it’s a pretty straightforward mechanism so I will get there in the end but I am strapped for time at the moment and also don’t want to spend anything more than I have to on it.
I also have the option of using my wife’s Peugeot if my hippo is out of action but, well, it’s a Peugeot.

Stance · Monday at 06:27

I've been there too with the handbrake...

What I have learned is that it's critical that:

The contact points are clean & lubed lightly, so that shoes move easily against them.

The handbrake adjuster moves freely. This one seems to seize up every year for me. The nordic winter probably doesn't help with this. But I have to disassemble back brakes annually to keep them in working condition.

Shoes are adjusted to slightly rub with the drum as Andy described. If they are too far away from the drum the handbrake will be weak. I don't think the auto adjuster keeps the shoes as close as you can get them by manually adjusting. I even replaced the auto adjusters recently with new parts.

Arctic2 · Monday at 10:00

Stance said:
I've been there too with the handbrake...

What I have learned is that it's critical that:

The contact points are clean & lubed lightly, so that shoes move easily against them.

The handbrake adjuster moves freely. This one seems to seize up every year for me. The nordic winter probably doesn't help with this. But I have to disassemble back brakes annually to keep them in working condition.

Shoes are adjusted to slightly rub with the drum as Andy described. If they are too far away from the drum the handbrake will be weak. I don't think the auto adjuster keeps the shoes as close as you can get them by manually adjusting. I even replaced the auto adjusters recently with new parts.

It's all been said above the contact points on the shoe with the back plate raised nodules must be greased copper grease is good, or ceramic grease.

1

Make sure the expander is also in good condition.

2

Brake cables are good also.

3

everything is clean.

4

Add the drum and then turn the knurled adjuster so the drum just drags a little.

5

6

From there adjust at the front cable so one click will grab the drum and stop it from moving, allow for some extra movement say to 2-3clicks.

7

Once a year remove the drum and clean all inside.

J_D · Monday at 10:36

The handbrake lever, bottom of pic 4, needs to be free to enable the handbrake to release. It's a little lever.

Stance · Monday at 11:52

J_D said:
The handbrake lever, bottom of pic 4, needs to be free to enable the handbrake to release.

Mine keeps getting completely stuck every year. I free it up so it moves without any resistance and give it a little lube before reassembling. The lever has so little tolerance that it just jams due to dirt and corrosion in the metal.

Arctic2 · Monday at 13:12

J_D said:
The handbrake lever, bottom of pic 4, needs to be free to enable the handbrake to release. It's a little lever.

close up of said item

1

J_D · Monday at 13:48

Stance said:
Mine keeps getting completely stuck every year. I free it up so it moves without any resistance and give it a little lube before reassembling. The lever has so little tolerance that it just jams due to dirt and corrosion in the metal.

Same here, I can't leave it overnight with the handbrake on or it sticks.

J_D · Monday at 13:50

The pictures from @Arctic2 as so helpful, thanks for putting in the time and effort

Philgt50 · Monday at 18:45

Arctic2 said:
It's all been said above the contact points on the shoe with the back plate raised nodules must be greased copper grease is good, or ceramic grease.

1

Make sure the expander is also in good condition.

2

Brake cables are good also.

3

everything is clean.

4

Add the drum and then turn the knurled adjuster so the drum just drags a little.

5

6

From there adjust at the front cable so one click will grab the drum and stop it from moving, allow for some extra movement say to 2-3clicks.

7

Once a year remove the drum and clean all inside.

Thanks a lot that’s great. I am gnna order new drums and shoes tonight and get it sorted at the weekend hopefully.
And thanks to everyone for the input, great forum this. Or maybe Hippo owners are cool

. Hmm..could be a bumper sticker there.

andyfreelandy · Monday at 18:59

J_D said:
The pictures from @Arctic2 as so helpful, thanks for putting in the time and effort

It appears there is nothing that Arctic has not photographed !!

Arctic2 · Monday at 23:36

andyfreelandy said:
It appears there is nothing that Arctic has not photographed !!

Andy i have thousands of FL1 FL2 R40 MGZT MG ZTT

1

Philgt50 · 2024-10-29T06:02:52+0000

andyfreelandy said:
It appears there is nothing that Arctic has not photographed !!

I am glad he has

Arctic2 said:
Andy i have thousands of FL1 FL2 R40 MGZT MG ZTT

1

keep on taking pictures dude

thanks a lot

Philgt50 · 2024-10-29T20:32:09+0000

Good news: MOT passed before I have replaced the drums and shoes but new set coming so will do it anyway but not this weekend as I thought I would have to.
Got advisories on;
suspension arm ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated front (both sides).
Anyone know about these or any pictures? Artic?

Stance · 2024-10-30T04:01:49+0000

The ball joint is typically riveted to the suspension arm. You can either replace the ball joint or the whole control arm.

Philgt50 · 2024-10-30T05:52:35+0000

Ok, thanks. I have done a few of them on other cars as I remember. Think there’s a few threads here about it so maybe get round to it….but then again it’s an advisory so it’s a problem for 12 months away. Probably wait and see if it keeps on running that long

Rear brakes TD4

Philgt50

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