Re-Discovery
- Thread starter 1988smithy
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1988smithy
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1988smithy
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- West midlands
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I know the d3 v6 and L322 v8 maybe totally different in some people’s eyes, (please bare with me)
The pics show basically the same design
Have you checked the front cv joint on the prop? Reason I ask is because ours went and was a right Pita. On 1 of you pics it looks a bit dirty/greasy around that area (so did ours) the exhaust is very close. In your pic yours also looks like more of an angle to add to the work it does.
At this stage of strip down it would be painful to miss a 10min job, when later is a whole days job.
Ignore me if I am talking ****e
J
The pics show basically the same design
Have you checked the front cv joint on the prop? Reason I ask is because ours went and was a right Pita. On 1 of you pics it looks a bit dirty/greasy around that area (so did ours) the exhaust is very close. In your pic yours also looks like more of an angle to add to the work it does.
At this stage of strip down it would be painful to miss a 10min job, when later is a whole days job.
Ignore me if I am talking ****e
J
1988smithy
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- West midlands
I know the d3 v6 and L322 v8 maybe totally different in some people’s eyes, (please bare with me)
The pics show basically the same design
Have you checked the front cv joint on the prop? Reason I ask is because ours went and was a right Pita. On 1 of you pics it looks a bit dirty/greasy around that area (so did ours) the exhaust is very close. In your pic yours also looks like more of an angle to add to the work it does.
At this stage of strip down it would be painful to miss a 10min job, when later is a whole days job.
Ignore me if I am talking ****e
J
This pic dude?
That's the rear/transfer box end, but does look a bit cacky. Agree proximity to exhaust probably warrants a further look. I actually undid both ends but couldn't get it off at the transfer box
Ill definitely have a closer look at it before everything goes back in, cheers for heads up
Ok I had probs with the front.
But you are much deeper in and could obviously get yours out easy.
This was my little job i wasn’t impressed. But you may see some similarities.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/drive-shaft-cv-propshaft.340769/
J
But you are much deeper in and could obviously get yours out easy.
This was my little job
i wasn’t impressed. But you may see some similarities.https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/drive-shaft-cv-propshaft.340769/
J
1988smithy
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Ok I had probs with the front.
But you are much deeper in and could obviously get yours out easy.
This was my little job
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/drive-shaft-cv-propshaft.340769/
J
I remember reading this! Gonna read it again now
Edit
@marjon It's a lot tighter under that 322! Haynes manual for D3 does say to remove transmission member as well though, I'll have a good look at the prop uj's tomorrow if they're toast I'll defo do it while I'm about there
Cheers!
Last edited:
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@1988smithy
Wished to let u know, I’ve had a very stressful weekend , fitted a projector light in the bottom of my door panel
Tried the light before final fitment, example pic of what it should look like
Just going to hide in a bomb shelter for the incoming abuse, snigger
View attachment 176106 View attachment 176101 View attachment 176104
All I need is encouragement like this, maybe after I've welded it up, rolled the wheel arches and got an MOT on it LOL
@1988smithy This is epic!!!
That crown wheel looks like it has been creating razor blades on the inside edge
1988smithy
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All I need is encouragement like this, maybe after I've welded it up, rolled the wheel arches and got an MOT on it LOL
@1988smithy This is epic!!!
That crown wheel looks like it has been creating razor blades on the inside edge
It fookin feels epic my mate
Crown wheel don't look as bad in real life. The dark notchy edges on pic is really gummed up oil/swarf residue that i can scrape off with a fingernail. It never whined before i lifted it out (itll probably just explode once I've finished with it
) just had that nasty grinding, rumbly bearing noise.I've been thinking what's best to do before I put it back together - give it a good clean out with brake cleaner or leave it and just refill with new oil?
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It fookin feels epic my mate
Crown wheel don't look as bad in real life. The dark notchy edges on pic is really gummed up oil/swarf residue that i can scrape off with a fingernail. It never whined before i lifted it out (itll probably just explode once I've finished with it
I've been thinking what's best to do before I put it back together - give it a good clean out with brake cleaner or leave it and just refill with new oil?
You not replacing it now it's out?
If you're nailing it back then dunk it in a bucket of diesel and use an old bottle brush to scrub it around inside, drain it off and douse it in brake cleaner and blow it clean and dry, fit it up and fill it up with fresh oil until you can get it replaced.
Well, that's what I would do
1988smithy
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I've had to go out and have a quick look lmao
Index finger is what I scraped off edge of pinion that middle fingers pointing at
Is the black on the tip of the gear significant heat damage discolouring or normal? It can't be removed
Crown wheel again
Can't get over this bearing. It's done about 450 miles towing a caravan let alone all the running about in between no wonder it sounded and looks so rough.
Slight left hand down under load and towing uphill it day half grumble
No evidence of paint chipping off internally that I can tell
Index finger is what I scraped off edge of pinion that middle fingers pointing at
Is the black on the tip of the gear significant heat damage discolouring or normal? It can't be removed
Crown wheel again
Can't get over this bearing. It's done about 450 miles towing a caravan let alone all the running about in between no wonder it sounded and looks so rough.
Slight left hand down under load and towing uphill it day half grumble
No evidence of paint chipping off internally that I can tell
1988smithy
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You not replacing it now it's out?
If you're nailing it back then dunk it in a bucket of diesel and use an old bottle brush to scrub it around inside, drain it off and douse it in brake cleaner and blow it clean and dry, fit it up and fill it up with fresh oil until you can get it replaced.
Well, that's what I would do
Just bearing to replace mate as far as I can see, have alook at pics in last post see what you think.
It's either replace diff carrier bearings myself and drop it back in
Or take to local transmission specialist
Get diff carrier bearings and pinion bearings replaced cost £270
Or get it refurbed completely for c£600
They're meant to be strong units apart from bearings
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You must have still had your dodgy soft porn filter on your camera when you took the first picture LOL
That bearing is shocking
That bearing is shocking
1988smithy
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You must have still had your dodgy soft porn filter on your camera when you took the first picture LOL
That bearing is shocking
Same fingerin' position
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I would refurb but that's just me, fair chunk of cash to splurge but justifiable for a bit of reliability.
1988smithy
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I'd love to to be honest mate but upper control arms need doing as well and I need to double check front prop before it goes back together. Im 99% confident bearings will sort it and she'll provide decent service.....if not at least I'll know how to get it out again
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I'd love to to be honest mate but upper control arms need doing as well and I need to double check front prop before it goes back together. Im 99% confident bearings will sort it and she'll provide decent service.....if not at least I'll know how to get it out again
Front end is hard on the bushes and the drivetrain, slapsome new bearings in it and see how it goes, if it doesn't then you only lost a little bit of cash
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