P38A Range Rover P38 Valve Block Rebuild/

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P38HSE46

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Germany
Hello,
I ordered a rebuild kit from xr8 and rebuilt the EAS pump and the valve block.

The pump is working flawlessly, however I have a leak at the valve block at that I cannot fix.

I got in touch with xr8 and they promptly sent me another set of o-ring, I replaced them again, and now it goes down on all 4 (with fuse #44 removed).

The leak is 100% from the block, my rear springs are new and the front ones did not leak prior to installing the second set of o-rings.

I was told on the other forum that Kurtjohnson10 offers a rebuild service? Perhaps it can be tested.

Any similar experience with bad o-rings?

Thank you
 
P38HSE46 said:
Hello,
I ordered a rebuild kit from xr8 and rebuilt the EAS pump and the valve block.

The pump is working flawlessly, however I have a leak at the valve block at that I cannot fix.

I got in touch with xr8 and they promptly sent me another set of o-ring, I replaced them again, and now it goes down on all 4 (with fuse #44 removed).

The leak is 100% from the block, my rear springs are new and the front ones did not leak prior to installing the second set of o-rings.

I was told on the other forum that Kurtjohnson10 offers a rebuild service? Perhaps it can be tested.

Any similar experience with bad o-rings?

Thank you
Click to expand...

Have you got an emergency inflation kit? If you use straight connectors you can pump the bags up without going through the valve block and that way you can rule outvthe bags. The bags have 2 o-rings where the pipe pushes in and if the pipe is a bit rough it can scuff them enough to leak.

Or your valve block might be leaking internally from one of the non-return valves that probably weren't in your kit.

Or the air-dryer might be leaking.
 
I seem to remember assembling my block with a thin coat of vaseline on each seal as I put them in. That was some time ago now and i've no idea where I read that tip or whether or not it is advisable. It did work though. Never had any issues with it after that.
 
There's been a long discussion by OP on RR.net. I have also been on PM with him. He's replaced some deformed of the small o-rings on the plunger casings, and this has improved things, so now the car only drops 15mm overnight, but still some leaks to resolve. I also suggested other suppliers for o-rings.

@P38HSE46 Make sure you update here as well as RR.net as you will get different help from each forum.
 
Hello everyone and again thank you for all your suggestions.

I replaced all the o-rings again (xr8 sent a new set), including all NRV o-rings, started the car, used the RSW software and put it at the highest setting and removed fuse #44 (again).

After 5-6 hours the rear is back on the bump stops.

My problem is without a doubt coming from the valve block, I can in fact hear a very high pitched hiss coming from the valve, but I do not see any bubbles forming from the top - I removed all 5 solenoids and sprayed a water/wd40 mixture and there was no bubble formation.

I suspect that the issue is inside of the valve block due to faulty o-rings perhaps? Pwood explained to me that even if the plunger tips were not sealing, the pressure once the EAS is off builds up on the plunger shaft or one of the o-rings on the valve plastic base - so the leak should come from there.
 
P38HSE46 said:
Hello everyone and again thank you for all your suggestions.

I replaced all the o-rings again (xr8 sent a new set), including all NRV o-rings, started the car, used the RSW software and put it at the highest setting and removed fuse #44 (again).

After 5-6 hours the rear is back on the bump stops.

My problem is without a doubt coming from the valve block, I can in fact hear a very high pitched hiss coming from the valve, but I do not see any bubbles forming from the top - I removed all 5 solenoids and sprayed a water/wd40 mixture and there was no bubble formation.

I suspect that the issue is inside of the valve block due to faulty o-rings perhaps? Pwood explained to me that even if the plunger tips were not sealing, the pressure once the EAS is off builds up on the plunger shaft or one of the o-rings on the valve plastic base - so the leak should come from there.
Click to expand...
Water and WD40? water and washing up liquid might be better at making bubbles to show a leak.
Odd that both sides are down because if it's the valve block there would have to be two leaking solenoids.
 
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