Range Rover P38 diesel injector pump problem

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welshsteve said:
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago, if my car cut out it would not restart, turned out to be a break in the stop solenoid feed wire.
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Yay! Thanks guys. ... it was a break in the stop solenoid!

However, the reason for the break is because the injector pump has been vibrating so much when the tickover runs unevenly.

So why is that? ???? (No other effect on the performance - runs and accelerates fine! )
 
wammers said:
Lots of head lining kits on the bay of E if you fancy doing it yourself. Trying to re glue one that has come adrift is not a good idea. Headliner is foam backed and it is the foam portion that is glued to the liner shell. When the foam breaks up cloth detaches and looks shit if glued back up with no foam between shell and cloth.
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Did the sunroof panel last week,used the old cloth and foam,looked good. When I went out to the car a few hours later it looked like a 90 yr old arse,all wrinkly. I used spray on adhesive, obviously not up to the job and it was roasting that day.:(
 
Fantastic guys. Stop solenoid's loose wire repaired! Started straight away!!!

However, still doing the uneven idle thing. Slightest depression of the throttle and it vanishes. Obviously the vibration shook the stop solenoid wrote loose.

Why the uneven idle? ??
 
Lachleaves1 said:
Fantastic guys. Stop solenoid's loose wire repaired! Started straight away!!!

However, still doing the uneven idle thing. Slightest depression of the throttle and it vanishes. Obviously the vibration shook the stop solenoid wrote loose.

Why the uneven idle? ??
Click to expand...

Look at the injectors and or compressions.
 
Lachleaves1 said:
Yay! Thanks guys. ... it was a break in the stop solenoid!

However, the reason for the break is because the injector pump has been vibrating so much when the tickover runs unevenly.

So why is that? ???? (No other effect on the performance - runs and accelerates fine! )
Click to expand...

Glad you got to the bottom of your problem. Always a relief when it is solved.
 
Lachleaves1 said:
Upon start up, will try to settle down to 750rpm, but then dips down to about 600rpm, then back up to 750 and down again. ...
Click to expand...
I had no end of problems with my fip, I could not get it to idle smoothly and also found if I was driving along and came off the accelerator the mil would flash on for a second, when stationary in park if I selected any gear the revs would drop of the car would even stall.
Replaced the pump with a recon unit and it transformed the drive completely, got to say it's the best thing I have done to my car to date.
 
Lachleaves1 said:
Upon start up, will try to settle down to 750rpm, but then dips down to about 600rpm, then back up to 750 and down again. ...
Click to expand...

You may have a problem with idle control which should be active when the throttle pot is below 9%. The ECU relies on signals from the CPS to adjust fuel up or down to maintain idle speed subject to load. Get someone with a Nanocom to look at it. The idle control value can be changed. Nominal setting if all is well should be 128. This could also be a problem with the fuel quantity servo feedback pot. Faults should be recorded if that is the case.
 
welshsteve said:
I had no end of problems with my fip, I could not get it to idle smoothly and also found if I was driving along and came off the accelerator the mil would flash on for a second, when stationary in park if I selected any gear the revs would drop of the car would even stall.
Replaced the pump with a recon unit and it transformed the drive completely, got to say it's the best thing I have done to my car to date.
Click to expand...

That was a fuel quantity servo problem, when the pot gets worn it does not feedback the correct servo position to the ECU. When the MIL lamp flashes as you come off cruise control it is a sure sign of impending failure. As the problem progresses the car will start to stall on gear selection or steering movement or when coming to a halt at traffic lights. Can sometimes be held off for a time by increasing idle slightly. But only real cure is a recon injection pump.
 
wammers said:
Should not make any difference, the system should react quickly enough to prevent the RPM getting anywhere near 600.
Click to expand...

If working fine it should. If it stops dropping then that part clearly isn't working. The EAS and ABS pumps don't take nearly as much power as the aircon. If it still does it with aircon off?
 
Grrrrrr said:
If working fine it should. If it stops dropping then that part clearly isn't working. The EAS and ABS pumps don't take nearly as much power as the aircon. If it still does it with aircon off?
Click to expand...

Engine speed should never go to 600 RPM. 500 RPM is the sustain speed if the engine speed drops below that it will shut down.
 
Air con belt has already been removed.

As for the mil flashing when coming off the accelerator - same. No sign of stalling though...
 
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