Hi all, can you help me please. I have started the engine this morning on my p38 and noticed a leak under the car. Opened the bonnet and there was a clear liquid coming out of a small pipe. Pipe has snapped. Any ideas on how this can be fixed and what it is please.
Range rover p38 2.5
- Thread starter Jeddabean
- Start date
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That's a spill pipe the fluid would have been diesel. They are known to do that 
.
You will need to do them all as the other 1 looks a bit iffy too.
1 of the diesel guys will be along with the best quality pipe to get, I think Gates. But I dont have that issue.
J
.You will need to do them all as the other 1 looks a bit iffy too.
1 of the diesel guys will be along with the best quality pipe to get, I think Gates. But I dont have that issue.
J
Is it an expensive job to replace them? Thanks for the helpThat's a spill pipe the fluid would have been diesel. They are known to do that
You will need to do them all as the other 1 looks a bit iffy too.
1 of the diesel guys will be along with the best quality pipe to get, I think Gates. But I dont have that issue.
J
Is it an expensive job to replace them? Thanks for the help
Not really its only some pipe, a bit fiddly maybe, I don't really know as don't own the diesel version.
But as I say wait for the diesel guys to tell you what pipe to get as they are not all good quality and don't last.
@Grrrrrr or @Mark Piercy maybe able to point you right.
J
Thanks for your help
appreciate it
Rangieman123
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You can source diesel spill pipe in most motor factors. It's shouldn't cost more than 20 quid.
I would suggest replacing the whole lot. It's not difficult, although a long nosed pliers will come in handy to get hold of the awkward ones. It has been a while since I've been under the bonnet of a P38, but you will probably need a blanking bung for the rearmost injector. Again the motor factors should have this too.
Be careful that you remove all of the old piping from the injector nipples. Bits of old piping can break and stay on the injector, fouling the fitment of new hose.
Take your time removing the old pipes. The nipples on the injectors can bend.
I would suggest replacing the whole lot. It's not difficult, although a long nosed pliers will come in handy to get hold of the awkward ones. It has been a while since I've been under the bonnet of a P38, but you will probably need a blanking bung for the rearmost injector. Again the motor factors should have this too.
Be careful that you remove all of the old piping from the injector nipples. Bits of old piping can break and stay on the injector, fouling the fitment of new hose.
Take your time removing the old pipes. The nipples on the injectors can bend.
Rangieman123
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Yes, they will pull off. One metre of hose should be enough but I'd get some extra. You'll probable find other piping needing replacement while you're in there...
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À bit of a faff, this will also help the engine to start better.
There are spill pipes between each injector but be careful as the last one closest to the windscreen has a blanking cap on it!
If it has become cracked as well, you get a small section of the same pipe and put a small bolt in it to seal the system.
There is also a section that comes from the fuel pump on the engine upto the first most accessible injector.
Replace that as well.
There are a couple of sizes for the inner diameter so maybe take a piece of the original piping with you so they can identify it's inner diameter. I'm not sure if its 3.2mm but don't quote me on that please.
They are all linked together in a chain like fashion. So the last injector is linked to the previous one in a forward direction towards the front of the engine and then onto the fuel pump.
There are spill pipes between each injector but be careful as the last one closest to the windscreen has a blanking cap on it!
If it has become cracked as well, you get a small section of the same pipe and put a small bolt in it to seal the system.
There is also a section that comes from the fuel pump on the engine upto the first most accessible injector.
Replace that as well.
There are a couple of sizes for the inner diameter so maybe take a piece of the original piping with you so they can identify it's inner diameter. I'm not sure if its 3.2mm but don't quote me on that please.
They are all linked together in a chain like fashion. So the last injector is linked to the previous one in a forward direction towards the front of the engine and then onto the fuel pump.
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À bit of a faff, this will also help the engine to start better.
There are spill pipes between each injector but be careful as the last one closest to the windscreen has a blanking cap on it!
If it has become cracked as well, you get a small section of the same pipe and put a small bolt in it to seal the system.
There is also a section that comes from the fuel pump on the engine upto the first most accessible injector.
Replace that as well.
There are a couple of sizes for the inner diameter so maybe take a piece of the original piping with you so they can identify it's inner diameter. I'm not sure if its 3.2mm but don't quote me on that please.
They are all linked together in a chain like fashion. So the last injector is linked to the previous one in a forward direction towards the front of the engine and then onto the fuel pump.
A bit of Hylomar on the small bolt helps. I'd leave that blanking cap well alone though, unless it is actually leaking and it very rarely does.
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Is it an expensive job to replace them? Thanks for the help
No. You want the Gates reinforced stuff with the dimpled, not smooth, surface.
I can't remember where I got mine. Possibly Demon Tweaks or somewhere like that.
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If you need to use the car now and can't wait for the Gates pipe to arrive just pop to local motor factors and ask for diesel spill pipe. Usually comes in a length you cut to size and includes new plastic bung for the last pipe. I paid 4 or 5 quid for last set. As said previous pair of long nose pliers help to put it on
Flossie
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It is 3.2mm inside diameter.
The same tubeing is used from the inlet manifold to the map sensor(on the fuel filter housing) that one rots too. Its a bit of a bugger to do with the inlet manifold on, I take it off but in this weather and with your limited knowledge? Some of the manifold nuts are awkward to get to.
Gates brand is the stuff.
The same tubeing is used from the inlet manifold to the map sensor(on the fuel filter housing) that one rots too. Its a bit of a bugger to do with the inlet manifold on, I take it off but in this weather and with your limited knowledge? Some of the manifold nuts are awkward to get to.
Gates brand is the stuff.
Struggling to replace the long one pipe, having to take off the inlet manifold for better access. I hope these old range rovers are worth the bother.
Flossie
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It's easier with the manifold off for sure. The long one is a fiddle but if you reach round over? the fip with your right hand guiding the pipe with your left it's doable. Had to do that twice on mine.Struggling to replace the long one pipe, having to take off the inlet manifold for better access. I hope these old range rovers are worth the bother.
Luckily the one nearest the windscreen looks good, I've replaced the others thou. Managed to pick up the kit which come with the bung if it did need doing.
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Do them all if you have the stuff or you could well be back in there at some point
Think I will actually didn't realise I removed that many nuts off the manifoldDo them all if you have the stuff or you could well be back in there at some point
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