Range rover nightmare.

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Again if rest of the car is good, do a full brake rebuild, parts like discs and calipers, pads, brake pipe isn’t expensive and if you can do the work yourself it will save a lot, check rear brake back plates as they hold shoes in place for rear handbrake drum assembly (rear is a hybrid set up with discs for service brake and inner of the disc used as handbrake drum) anyway the retaining pins can pull through the back plate resulting in no handbrake or very little and scraping noise, mines gone on the two Rangies iv had but iv repairs it with washers, m5 machine screws and nylon nuts, doing this let’s you keep the springs on the handbrake shoes to keep them nice agains back plate etc.
also check rest of it for rot, arches, rear sill corners, subframes, if all good clean and wax it until it’s dripping out of everywhere.
 
Ye that's kind of what I was thinking regards egr. Looking at corrosion on brake parts think this could be a full brake strip down calipers flexi solid lines. Not sure the calipers will bleed up with the old rusty nipples. I need to get underneath after xmas. Thank you again for all the help and advice. Cars been ok so.far few bits electrics but easy fix's.

The brake lines on the later Rangies tend to rot where they're hidden by plastic trim. P38A tends to go where the lines pass over by the fuel tank.
 
The brake lines on the later Rangies tend to rot where they're hidden by plastic trim. P38A tends to go where the lines pass over by the fuel tank.
Over the fuel tank? I don't remember that, mine passed alongside the tank and rotted where the bend is to go across above the axle behind the tank.
 
On mine, above the rear axle cross member they had died there... I replaced the whole of the rear sections including rubber pipes along with the chassis to body pipes as well. There are two connectors just in front of the drivers foot well (engine bay side)
The new sections were joined there 👍
 
Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket?
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Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket? View attachment 305916

I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
 
I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
Are the lines running down passenger side under plastic. Few comments have said drivers side to a connector at front?
 
I'd just replace the line all the way from the rear flexis to the front wheel arch (behind the liner). Job jone.
This is drivers rear side so is it a solid pipe line over to passenger side then they run down to front under cover?.
 
This is drivers rear side so is it a solid pipe line over to passenger side then they run down to front under cover?.

It changes on the double exhaust cars. From memory the P38 rears go down behind the front wheel-arch, along the chassis rails and then on early cars they go across above the rear axle but then 1 goes back across on the axle itself. On later cars I think only one line goes across above the axle and the other just drops straight down to the driver's rear. Been a few years since I did mine.
 
Ok thank you it makes more sense now. Just the jacking up part to sort out now without damaging air bags ,thank you for all the input everyone.
 
Ok thank you it makes more sense now. Just the jacking up part to sort out now without damaging air bags ,thank you for all the input everyone.
You should not be able to damage the airbags by letting the axle hang unless the shocks are knackered, the height sensors on the other hand may pick up dirt on the track when the move beyond their normal range unless you are an off roader.
 
Ok I got a spare 5 min, to look at it today. Got to find the proper way to jack it up. Started on the square black plastic bits but looked like it was moving the step so moved further down the front and went further under to chassis. Looked a stronger lift but wheel never lifted off floor, and airbag full stretch. So dont think its right dont want to damage air bags. But found that brake line had snapped clean off where it has a solid pipe to flex on the first part of rear pipe . So hopefully straight swap. Hows the flexi conector held into solid pipe bracket is it just a clip on the back of bracket? View attachment 305916
If things are moving when you jack under that block you need to very carefully inspect the sills behind the covers as they rot for fun. If the sills are gone it might be time to cut your losses especially when you can get a very useable 07/08 model with a v8 diesel for under 2k now.
Don't worry about the airbags, they will hang hapilly and unless the bags are knackered anyway they won't catch any harm. You can't pull the bags off unless you disconnect part of the suspension like a shock absorber for example.
There was somebody making sill replacement panels but they have been out of stock for a while and if your body shop has to fab everything up it's a dear job.
 
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