Datatek
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+1 to above, plus if it's like the P38 any hard fault will stop the compressor running.
Range Rover Classic LSE EAS
- Thread starter Mercedeschris
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Is this just the compressor dumping the over pressure from itself - so when it restarts it isn't trying to start under pressure ? - I.E. much like wagons do ?
Datatek
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The pressure dump occurs from the valve block on the P38, I would expect the same on the Classic, it's a short sharp burst of air, not a whooshing sound. Where is the valve block located.
Henry_b
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On the RRC the air compressor and valveblock is located in a box on the OS chassis rail..
The compressor and valveblock are nearly identical IIRC.
only difference between the two is the cylinder head on the compressor which can be swapped on to a P38 compressor.
Henry_b
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If all you have done is rebuild the valveblock and compressor, then there is no need to fiddle around with a recalibration.
Datatek
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Thank you for that Henry, doesn't sound like the car was designed for wading
Henry_b
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I agree Keith Quite an odd place to put it, I guess they learnt their lesson with the P38Thank you for that Henry, doesn't sound like the car was designed for wading
Datatek
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I think I would be looking at relocating to under the bonnet or the boot if it were my car.I agree Keith Quite an odd place to put it, I guess they learnt their lesson with the P38
Henry_b
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I agree, to be honest an LSE still on EAS is a rarity, usually they have been converted yonks ago!!
But yes a relocation would be a great idea.
Mercedeschris
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Afternoon all.
I have traced the air pressure loss. The air is coming out of port 9 outlet which I think is the exhaust line? The system won't run at all unless I feed the compressor relay light green wire. So there is more than one fault on the EAS system.
But even then it only goes up to 16PSI as air is being lost through port 9. I've resealed the whole valve block (apart from diaphragm disc) that looked OK and serviceable.
So I'm a bit stumped for ideas now! Anybody had a similar issue?
Thanks
I have traced the air pressure loss. The air is coming out of port 9 outlet which I think is the exhaust line? The system won't run at all unless I feed the compressor relay light green wire. So there is more than one fault on the EAS system.
But even then it only goes up to 16PSI as air is being lost through port 9. I've resealed the whole valve block (apart from diaphragm disc) that looked OK and serviceable.
So I'm a bit stumped for ideas now! Anybody had a similar issue?
Thanks
Datatek
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Sounds like the diaphragm has split, not unusual and an easy fix.
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+1 on diaphragm valve or possibly the solenoid not getting 12V from ECU when compressor is on ?
Never worked on Classic EAS, but based on the EAS SID, the design looks basically the same, although the components are located differently.
Never worked on Classic EAS, but based on the EAS SID, the design looks basically the same, although the components are located differently.
Mercedeschris
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Thanks for the feedback. I have checked the diaphragm solenoid and it works when I probe it. But as pwood says I need to recheck it when its refitted to car. The diaphragm itself looks OK? I've been told the two bits that make up the diaphragm can be replace by a single item a green diaphragm? Anybody tried this modification out?
Cheers and all the best for Xmas.
Cheers and all the best for Xmas.
Datatek
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The single piece diaphragm is used on the P38 so should work.
Mercedeschris
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I refitted my EAS again yesterday, system still not firing up? I put a gauge at the reservoir and pressure built up to 10 bar in about 5mins. They only way I can get the system to run and car to raise is by feeding pin 8 on C331 ECU connector (slate/yellow) wire to feed start side on compressor solenoid and also feed pin 26 (green/slate) wire on C331 to activate inlet valve. Car rises instantly then. But as soon as compressor stops running it falls back to bump stops. The only pin/wiring check that doesn't add up is there is no ground input from drivers door to pin 34 on C331 connector at ECU? I don't like condemning ECUs as in my experience they are rarely the cause of faults, but in this case I'm running out of ideas. Anybody changed a faulty ECU?
Happy New year to all.
Happy New year to all.
Datatek
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On the P38, doors have to be closed for the EAS to operate, I suspect it would be the same on the Classic. So if the door closed signal is missing it's not going to do much.
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Faulty door mechanism? If you can substitute an earth and it works, the latch could be the fault in not telling the car the door is shut but the compressor would still charge the system I would have thought? It does on the 38'..not sure about the RRC..
Mercedeschris
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Thanks for that. I'm going to try that next time. Problem is that I'm working outside so weather is a major factor on how much work I can complete. Must be goin soft in my old age. LOL
kurtjohnson10
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1mm solenoid under blue wire coil may be worn or sticking
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