Range Rover 2.5 Dse Not Starting

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I think mine is all sorted now. I took the new glow plugs out and put the old ones back in and bam! fires straight away and same this morning! Tested the new glow plugs, and only 2 out of the 6 were working. These were cheap chineese ones from Island-4x4.com. The originals were NGK.

So its all fixed now, but I'm picking up a 99 DHSE tomorrow :)
 
2 ways to do it with them removed. One is with a battery n jump leads, connect negative to the large thread, and positive to small threaded part, and the end will glow red/white hot if they are working.
Another is to put a multimeter on it, on the setting that beeps when there is a circuit (sorry, I'm not an electrician) If theres no beep, its not connected to the heater bit and wont work! Hope this helps!!
 
english111 said:
sounds good does any one know where i can get one from
Click to expand...

This happened on mine.
I spoke to my more than helpful local independant and they suggested a 'one way valve' from filter to block. It cost me a straight fiver (£5.00).
We removed the existing clear fuel piping from the filter forward.
Renewed it with some heavy duty diesel fuel pipe with the valve inserted in between, secured with 4 jubilee clips and I've never had a problem since. Starts first time, every time and never misses a beat - cold, warm, hot, full tank, half full or quarter tank...
This maybe a solution to your problems. It worked for me but yours maybe something else.
Good luck.......
 
I'm still going down this road myself, I'm convinced mine has an air leak into the fuel system but I have replaced all of the splash pipes and the injector with the sensor on it. replaced the glow plugs(but only for cheapies) replaced the clear pipe from the filter to the block, replaced the in tank pump and the fuel filter and air filter. put a non return valve in bloody thing still takes an age to start. I'm thinking cheap glow plugs or Relay. the relay is putting 12v to the plugs and I have tried fooling the ecu into thinking its cold and bring the glow plugs on anyway but it still takes ages to start and when it does it seems to start with a missfire.

I'm convincing myself that its the plugs and Not a lack of compression. It hasn't been tested yet but thats next
 
fattyfattyboomalatty said:
I'm still going down this road myself, I'm convinced mine has an air leak into the fuel system but I have replaced all of the splash pipes and the injector with the sensor on it. replaced the glow plugs(but only for cheapies) replaced the clear pipe from the filter to the block, replaced the in tank pump and the fuel filter and air filter. put a non return valve in bloody thing still takes an age to start. I'm thinking cheap glow plugs or Relay. the relay is putting 12v to the plugs and I have tried fooling the ecu into thinking its cold and bring the glow plugs on anyway but it still takes ages to start and when it does it seems to start with a missfire.

I'm convincing myself that its the plugs and Not a lack of compression. It hasn't been tested yet but thats next
Click to expand...

yes i have come to the same conclusion i think i might get some good plugs as i changed mine to the cheap ones not sure which ones are good though i think the ones i originally took out were gkn but not sure
 
Still not starting.
OK, I have now been told that the engine has a crank sensor that will not let it start if cranking is too slow.
This can be caused by the oil being too thick when very cold so I have now changed my oil and filter.
if nothing else it goes a lot better with much better acceleration
tomorrow morning will be the real test
 
Just to make sure. In the morning put a voltmeter or test light on a glow plug and put the ignition on. Just to make sure the plugs are getting 12 volts.

if they don’t come on pull the engine coolant temp sender plug off and this will force them on.
 
no good just went out to start it and pre-heated 3 times and it just turns over and over it will start after a while
 
After some thinking and some examination I'm not convinced its the cheap plugs, I've removed them and they all heat up to glowing red in approx 5 Secs. I am now going to get the injectors reconditioned.

I have noticed my oil level has increased slightly and a bit of diesel knock when first started. I haven't had the injectors out but..... the oil smells funny:p I know that sounds daft but it does, the oil level has risen slightly,. I reckon I have an injector staying open and this is causing some diesel wash and the initial knock. If its staying open it would explain the crap starting as it'll let some air back down to the pump.

Does this make sense to anybody out there or am I grasping at straws?
 
Sounds about the next way forward, just to make sure, Before you do, Have you definitely made sure all your leak off pipes are good. I just replace them anyway. Also the one from the pump to the first injector and the one to the map sensor. If they haven’t been changed, change them.
Sometimes you will not see them leak because they are drawing air in. The map sensor one causes havoc on the fueling when it’s worn.
 
English111, when you mentioned you preheated 3 times did you test with test light or voltmeter or are you going off the light on the dash. Do you know the Heater plugs are definitely getting 12 volts.
 
Mtechuk said:
Do you know the Heater plugs are definitely getting 12 volts.
Click to expand...

even if they were getting volts across them that's not a sure fire indication that they are actually getting hot - take them out put a high current 12v source across them and make sure they visually glow hot within a few seconds
 
I agree totally. What I was getting at, is the glow plug circuit ok, then once you know the circuit is ok take them out and test them individually. You have to determine the difference between the glow plug light coming on and the plugs actually getting 12 volts.
 
they all got hot.
I have just had a look at the return pipes and they just pull off with out any resistance so i will change them
 
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