r380 fault or incorrect oil

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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

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Hi there,

Yes i know there is loads of info on this and
Ive done a lot of research tonight into how the R380 gearbox works (as im clueless), and gained a little amount of info, as well as researching the the correct oil. (Hours if searching)

I have a 1995 300tdi defender with 130k. Currently running with new ATF in the geabox, like it has done all its life i guess. Fresh ATF improved the changes significantly when its warm, to near perfect.

However, when the engine/gearbox is cold, it makes second gear almost impossible to get in unless it is forced. Yet no issues with the other gears.

If the syncromesh was worn 1st to 2nd- wouldnt this happen when the gearbox was warm too?

Which therefor leads me to question the oil. As i understand MTF94 is now recommended for the R380, which i was advised to use some years ago on here. Is this going to make the changing worse or better? As i beleive its thicker than ATF.

Thanks for reading and any help will be greatly appreciated! :)
 
I have the same symptoms in my R380 (MY 2000 TD5) although I can still beat the synchro when it's warmed up if I try.

I've tried atf (was in it when I got it), the Difflock stufff (bloody dear) and now have MTF94 funnily enough from smith and allan. To be honest I've found no real difference in performance and have just accepted it as the "a quirk" of the box.

Double clutching when cold helps a bit but the biggest help I find is to change sooner than you would in a "normal" car. I find 1st in the R380 is a very "short" gear and I can achieve better changes even when cold if I change up almost immediately I start moving.
 
Mine wont even go in 2nd when the vehicle is moving slowly. Yet when warmed up will. Obviously i can also beat the box into second when warm, but i think thats the nature of it too. They are sports boxes haha
 
Please get some more input on using EP90

I know it's not recommended for the R380, not sure what damage it can cause but thought i read somewhere about it being too thick for the integral pump to handle and can lead to gearbox failure
 
Last edited:
Do the other brands of the MTF94 such as smith and allen, carlube and rock oil work as well as the genuine land rover stuff? As the R380 seems really tempremental with different oils.. Is it worth the risk of the other brands?
 
Run LR Original, I think Honda and Smith & Allen in mine - not noticed any difference

They should all be to the same spec, and suspect some will be the same just 'branded' differently

Smith & Allen in mine for last 2 years
 
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