Quick question if I may. Is the R380 main gearbox drain plug right at the bottom centre of the gearbox? I was having a look underneath my 300Tdi today and found a threaded hole that looked like it might be a drain plug but with no plug, about half inch thread. Haynes doesn't say where the drain plug is. I'm worried that the drain plug has fallen out! Any help appreciated,thank you!
R380 drain plug
- Thread starter Steve H
- Start date
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ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Sounds like your wading plug hole in your bell houseing to me.
Having re-read your post the thing your describing is a drain hole for any excess fluid that leaks into the gearbox bell-housing, supposed to be plugged only when wading in deep water. If it was your gearbox fluid drain plug you'd know about it as your gearbox would probably now be seized solid!!!
cheers
Tom
cheers
Tom
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Opinions vary. You are meant to leave it out and only stick it in when you are gonna be wading. I keep mine in and take it out every couple of weeks to check there is no oil contamination cos I tend to lose em.
Oddie
AntiSeptic Sandal Wearer
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I gorra feeling there is a spare threaded hole somewhere underneath for you to screw the drain plug into while it's draining so's you don't lose it - that might be what you found!
Chunky Engineer
New Member
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hi guys R380 on disco, large hex plug (32mm) is the drain (drivers side on the side of the gearbox), above it is the filler (this is a torx drive) if your playing silly bu88ers with your ratchets and hands around the rear end of the front prop shaft then your in the right place!
gotoneatlast
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just to back up chunky engineer,
Drained gearbox oil last week, he's right.
gonna do it again , have some fancy new mtf94 fluid for it now, gonna give it a whirl.
P.s, re; filler plug, ensure you get torx drive bit TX55, don't do as i did and try using other unsuitable tool( i couldn,t see the socket type due to angle on gearbox)you run the risk of rounding the edges off.
Make sure you can remove this plug first too, before you drain gearbox.
Drained gearbox oil last week, he's right.
gonna do it again , have some fancy new mtf94 fluid for it now, gonna give it a whirl.
P.s, re; filler plug, ensure you get torx drive bit TX55, don't do as i did and try using other unsuitable tool( i couldn,t see the socket type due to angle on gearbox)you run the risk of rounding the edges off.
Make sure you can remove this plug first too, before you drain gearbox.
pussyeater
New Member
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I've tried the 75w-80 (MTF94) in my R380 and found the ATF oil made it run smoother and quieter. I just thought i'd let you know that all other oil companies, who get their info from LR, are the same in this. They all list their own version of MTF94 except between these dates.
Manual gearbox: R380 gearbox 1994 model year to Jan 98, 2.4 ltr / 2.9 ltr (without/with oil cooler), DONAX TA
hopefully this helps
Manual gearbox: R380 gearbox 1994 model year to Jan 98, 2.4 ltr / 2.9 ltr (without/with oil cooler), DONAX TA
hopefully this helps
gotoneatlast
New Member
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oh right,
this has been an ongoing drama, to get the correct gbox oil,
{apparantley i also have a broken bias plate, which is causing gearchange difficulty)...However, i 've been to countless, motorfactors, halfords, and other links and forums on the net, and the only definitive answer i could get, (finally from my local LR sevice dept) ,for correct spec was the MTF, which was a LR recommended improvement on the handbook spec of ATFDexronIID(which has also had a change in classification/identification, now being recognized as suitable for other Specs).
I'm gonna get the bias plate replaced, and the take it from there, at the moment i have Comma AQM(meeting DexronII,(not IID mind!) in it, which i was
"assured" would be ok by the motorfactors, when i wanted to change the stuff and get my money back in favour of some MTF94*, before the first drain and change.(* after doing web research...are you keeping up with this?!).
The AQM did give me a big time improvement esp on cold starts changing to 2nd which was the original problem that set the whole pinball richochet.
I was gonna check out the MTF94, after talking to the LR guy, who reckoned it was great, and also on the strenghth of it being a factory upgrade.
Waddaya think?
this has been an ongoing drama, to get the correct gbox oil,
{apparantley i also have a broken bias plate, which is causing gearchange difficulty)...However, i 've been to countless, motorfactors, halfords, and other links and forums on the net, and the only definitive answer i could get, (finally from my local LR sevice dept) ,for correct spec was the MTF, which was a LR recommended improvement on the handbook spec of ATFDexronIID(which has also had a change in classification/identification, now being recognized as suitable for other Specs).
I'm gonna get the bias plate replaced, and the take it from there, at the moment i have Comma AQM(meeting DexronII,(not IID mind!) in it, which i was
"assured" would be ok by the motorfactors, when i wanted to change the stuff and get my money back in favour of some MTF94*, before the first drain and change.(* after doing web research...are you keeping up with this?!).
The AQM did give me a big time improvement esp on cold starts changing to 2nd which was the original problem that set the whole pinball richochet.
I was gonna check out the MTF94, after talking to the LR guy, who reckoned it was great, and also on the strenghth of it being a factory upgrade.
Waddaya think?
