P38A Questions for P38 Owners (especially V8 Petrols)

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Not much to choose between the 4.0 and 4.6. Some claim the 4.0 is more reliable but I don't think it's enough to show up in reality. Obviously, the 4.6 has a bit more poke but the 4.0 is plenty unless you're a real boy racer.
Don't think any were fitted with coils from the factory, even poverty spec ones were eas.
Lpg will be 2k plus for a decent system professionally fitted but there's plenty of good systems on ebay for 200-300 quid. Fit yourself then get a friendly lpg specialist to set it up and safety check it and you'll be well under a grand.
Personally, I'd go for an L322 4.4 ajv8 if it were my money. (but then I'm biased as that's my daily driver)
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the further replies.

From reading online, the BMW sourced Thor ECU replaced the Lucas GEMS in 1999. As 2001 and 2002 models are the only types compliant with the ULEZ, this would appear to include only Thor types.

Are either of the 4.0 or 4.6 engines considered to be a better option for any reason?

I have read that there were some lower spec models fitted with coil springs from the factory. Is this true, and were they ever sold on the UK market?

Roughly how much does installing an LPG conversion cost?
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It is all rumours but some say the 4.6 blocks were the better ones as most were bound for the States. I think liner drop less of an issue now because it would already have happened. Of course, the 4.6 has to dump all that heat so cooling system will have to be spotless.

Go 4.6 LPG and enjoy. Buy it with LPG. They are out there and it costs £1500 to fit.

You will have niggles. Anything that old will have issues and it is probably why the previous owner is shifting it on but once fixed they are quite reliable and easy to fix.

For £2.5k you should get a beauty. I've seen lots of nice examples and none made £2k on the Bay. **** those dealers asking £3k or £4k. They will be no more reliable. You'll need to hold a grand back for parts in the first year.
 
Thanks for the replies.

How exactly does the liner drop happen?

I did notice that every running 2001/2002 P38 V8 with valid MOT listed on ebay was selling for around £4K. V8 Discovery 2s of the same age seem to be around twice that price. Why are they so much more expensive?

I checked today and insurance will be around £1000 for myself for a 4 litre which is still fairly high compared to other vehicles.
 
The problem with these type of threads is the actual P38 hasn't been purchased yet... there was another thread recently OP wanted to buy one to overland SA...you can get a good one and have no problem with it... or as some members have found one problem after another even after paying good money for it... they are old cars there's no getting away from it...
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the replies.

How exactly does the liner drop happen?

I did notice that every running 2001/2002 P38 V8 with valid MOT listed on ebay was selling for around £4K. V8 Discovery 2s of the same age seem to be around twice that price. Why are they so much more expensive?

I checked today and insurance will be around £1000 for myself for a 4 litre which is still fairly high compared to other vehicles.
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Usually after an overheat although not always. It manifests as a ticking as the liner starts to move with the piston and you start to lose coolant.

If you want one NOW then you will pay more. They seem to come available in batches. There are none and then all of a sudden there will be loads. Not sure why. Guess when people have time to list them? Winter can push prices up a bit and just before the summer holidays.
 
As with all vehicles of this age, I have a 2000 4.6 they are all susceptible to faults but some more than others. Its's often a case of you pays your money you takes your chance. But you have to be prepared to take the chance or don't buy one. For the past few years due to working away mine sits for about 9 months a year and qpart from a cam sensor and door latches its been really reliable (having said that it's now jinxed it) But when it is used every day for the 3 months its in Russian winter conditions and on terrible roads and tracks, and performs beautifully. But I have done preventative maintenance to hopefully keep any major costs down. As for running costs luckily here its only the equivalent of £50 to fill the tank so for me LPG isn't worth looking at.
 
I have seen one advertised for sale with an LPG conversion and coil springs for sale online for a good price. The only problem is that I am in London and it is in Glasgow or I may have gone to have a look at it.

I have seen several posts advising against coil spring conversions. Does it reduce the capability of the vehicle? Am I right that it gives a less comfortable ride?

I am not looking to buy one right away as I have until October 2021 before the ULEZ extension. That gives plenty of time to search.

Grrrrrr said:
Usually after an overheat although not always. It manifests as a ticking as the liner starts to move with the piston and you start to lose coolant.
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Thanks for the explanation. Can this ticking be easily heard when the engine is idling? I assume this is something to check for when buying one?
 
Webley1991 said:
I have seen one advertised for sale with an LPG conversion and coil springs for sale online for a good price. The only problem is that I am in London and it is in Glasgow or I may have gone to have a look at it.

I have seen several posts advising against coil spring conversions. Does it reduce the capability of the vehicle? Am I right that it gives a less comfortable ride?

I am not looking to buy one right away as I have until October 2021 before the ULEZ extension. That gives plenty of time to search.



Thanks for the explanation. Can this ticking be easily heard when the engine is idling? I assume this is something to check for when buying one?
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It is, although a blown head-gasket (very common around 110k miles on the v8) and a blown exhaust gasket sound very similar. Head gaskets not as bad a job as it sounds.
 
Webley1991 said:
I have seen one advertised for sale with an LPG conversion and coil springs for sale online for a good price. The only problem is that I am in London and it is in Glasgow or I may have gone to have a look at it.

I have seen several posts advising against coil spring conversions. Does it reduce the capability of the vehicle? Am I right that it gives a less comfortable ride?

I am not looking to buy one right away as I have until October 2021 before the ULEZ extension. That gives plenty of time to search.



Thanks for the explanation. Can this ticking be easily heard when the engine is idling? I assume this is something to check for when buying one?
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IMO, the EAS is one of the best features of the P38, coils ruin it, it was never designed for coils.
 
H frame design is same as coiled LRs. If it has could use it to knock the price down - they are worth bit less. Can always fit a new EAS system in your own time.
Cheaper to get one LPG that needs fixing rather than for new system that will double your spend.
 
Grrrrrr said:
It is, although a blown head-gasket (very common around 110k miles on the v8) and a blown exhaust gasket sound very similar. Head gaskets not as bad a job as it sounds.
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Replaced my head gaskets on the V8 at around 112000 as I didn't know if it had ever been done. Again preventative maintenance as rather do it when I can as rather when I need to due to failure and incurring other issues. Costs to do it but cheaper than having to do it.
 
Webley1991 said:
It sounds like a useful feature when working properly but a pain when it isn't. From what I have read it is one of the most likely sources of problems on these vehicles.
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The problems arise solely from lack of maintenance. The airsprings have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles, when they start to leak, the compressor fails. After overhauling mine it has been more or less trouble free for years now. The system is easy to fix and the parts are not expensive if you DIY.
 
Webley1991 said:
It sounds like a useful feature when working properly but a pain when it isn't. From what I have read it is one of the most likely sources of problems on these vehicles.
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That is probably true but once you've got it straight these vehicles are relatively reliable. All my neighbours have cars half the age or less of mine but just as many issues, just different issues.
 
Webley1991 said:
It sounds like a useful feature when working properly but a pain when it isn't.
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But the same could be said about an engine - or a gearbox or ...., and you wouldn't expect either of them to function without maintenance o_O - or if you did .....:eek:

Webley1991 said:
From what I have read it is one of the most likely sources of problems on these vehicles.
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Well, the thing is that common problems on forums distort things by getting all the attention - for instance, you don't see reports of extensive rebuilds of P38 bodies due to rust - or reports of the rear end of the chassis rotting away before your eyes - compare these examples with D1's and D2's .......

Datatek said:
The problems arise solely from lack of maintenance.
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No truer words were ever spoken :) .
 
Point is they are a PITA to maintain.
Is half the fun of these vehicles though. If you’ve got a good one then it’s no bother, if you have other things to sort on it is different.
That’s why I ditched mine. Now I know more about it is different. 2nd Hand coils are cheap as mostly go on scrappers ready to be killed off.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Point is they are a PITA to maintain.
Is half the fun of these vehicles though. If you’ve got a good one then it’s no bother, if you have other things to sort on it is different.
That’s why I ditched mine. Now I know more about it is different. 2nd Hand coils are cheap as mostly go on scrappers ready to be killed off.
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Not really. Sorted mine when I got it and after that just a case of compressor letting go every 3 or 5 years. Kurt can sort that PDQ.

When you're lugging a ton of wood about it is amazing. I can lug all sorts of stuff tgrough the woods and you cannot tell if I am empty or full to the roof. Handles well for a big lump too.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Yours was not on deaths door when you had it. Paid about £40 for coil kit off my mate sorted suspension out for years. Worth it just so I don’t get obsessed going out measuring corners all hours of the night.
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ROFL.

I didn't even make it home from where I bought it! Stopped for fuel, barely started again and just made it home. Alternator had failed on the drive home. That was just the start. There's a reason I have so many threads!
 
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