Querying bent clutch pedal...

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KBW

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Maybe something like this already in old threads that I've missed. If so, sorry. I'm 'new' to the forum. Details are in my 'introduction' paras. Help gratefully received. Thanks.
 
Here.
KBW said:
Dear LZ forum, newbie here. Have read with interest lots of old threads/posts about clutch issues (especially from andyfreelandy, thanks, if he is still around). But mine may be a bit different. Or maybe not.
Wife has a Freelander TD4, just had whole clutch replaced, inc the DMF and slave cylinder, about 4 weeks ago. McOuch £££££. Couple of days ago the clutch pedal went solid and my wife tried to press it through the 'solid part'. Partly successful though clutch would still not disengage and pedal then would only come part way back up without getting toe underneath it.
Garage diagnosed master cylinder u/s. But when the new mc was fitted by them, the piston didn't actually meet the pedal (piston length of old and new compared and identical), it was a couple of cm 'short'; so they consider that the pedal is 'bent'. I know my wife is a strong lass but really?? Pedal with metal 'cage' now removed but no 'visible' signs of damage to the pedal assembly. So now a bit stuck. Could try bending it back - but how much?!
Garage are a VERY competent lot - traditional engineers/mechanics IMHO. Not just 'fitters' of new parts...
Any LR specialsit out there got any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Oh BTW andyfreelandy and I seem to have had a identical experience in the past, with diesel leaking from fuel pump into the sump leading to 'runaway'...
Click to expand...
 
Was the new MC a genuine part? If the pedal went solid, then it could be the quick connector had come apart. More investigation is needed but a bent pedal is a possibility.
 
Nodge68 said:
Was the new MC a genuine part? If the pedal went solid, then it could be the quick connector had come apart. More investigation is needed but a bent pedal is a possibility.
Click to expand...
Many thanks - and yes indeed, the quick connector had come apart. But rather than just try to reconnect it we went for a new mc. I don't think the mc would have been a genuine LR part but will double check. That said, I know the garage have measured everything to do with the box/pedal/piston etc. And basically after fitting the new mc the pedal now sits around 4" lower than the brake pedal. Could desperately make good use of a brand new LR pedal/assembly to compare it with to help decide whether 'bending' (or maybe even reinforcing the metal box which is as you know made of a relatively thinner plate) would be likely to help us. And then, if so, return the brand new unit to the supplier! But maybe 'borrowing' a £350 plus VAT item is unlikely. It's just that having spend around £1500 for the new clutch only to be looking at around another £600 if we need a new pedal assembly to sort out the mc problem is a very unattractive option.
 
There are quality issues with aftermarket MCs that result in a low pedal. I'd only recommend genuine MCs only on the TD4.
 
Nodge68 said:
There are quality issues with aftermarket MCs that result in a low pedal. I'd only recommend genuine MCs only on the TD4.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Can confirm that the replacement MC was NOT an original. Passed on your experience to the garage. It'd be nice if that was 'all' it was...
 
An update - the MC fitted was a Britpart one, so generally pretty good quality? So we went down the route of replacing the clutch pedal (at c. £400 a pop - isn't that unbelievable? - I was pushed into a scrappie visit, for the first time in over 35 years!). Although as a youngster I used to almost live in scrapyards, for me it was a major challenge to get the pedal out from a late 2001 Freelander but, bingo, it did the job. I've attached (I hope) a photo of the well-bent item. Two messages I guess. If ever anyone finds that their clutch pedal is not able to depress normally - don't FORCE it! But I guess most of you would already know that...
Second message is that the pedal housing isn't able to survive a determined press from a horsewoman's left leg! Thanks for help Landy-Zoners - job done.
P1030901_800x600.JPG
 
Thanks gents, I stand corrected. But, fingers crossed, the replacement master cylinder seems OK so far. Though apparently very difficult to bleed completely...
 
KBW said:
An update - the MC fitted was a Britpart one, so generally pretty good quality? So we went down the route of replacing the clutch pedal (at c. £400 a pop - isn't that unbelievable? - I was pushed into a scrappie visit, for the first time in over 35 years!). Although as a youngster I used to almost live in scrapyards, for me it was a major challenge to get the pedal out from a late 2001 Freelander but, bingo, it did the job. I've attached (I hope) a photo of the well-bent item. Two messages I guess. If ever anyone finds that their clutch pedal is not able to depress normally - don't FORCE it! But I guess most of you would already know that...
Second message is that the pedal housing isn't able to survive a determined press from a horsewoman's left leg! Thanks for help Landy-Zoners - job done.
View attachment 145276
Click to expand...
Hi KBW
Davy here new to LZ and was having the same problem as you . pedal hit the floor and when pulled up went like a brick and to be honest I did try to press it on joy.
On inspection the quick connector had come apart and fluid from the back of master cylinder new mc fitted but pedal was low, first thought was mc was different but was same as my old one in size. Then thought I had bent the arm back that the m/c fits onto at the pedal no way that could have happened so then was thinking the same as you thin steel housing that holds the pedal in place may have pulled up at the folds . It does look flimsy from what I can see. I will get it out today and take a pic of it and let you all know what its like.
fingers crossed it fixes my low pedal problem. oh my master cylinder was luk part.
 
IMG_7088.JPG
Hi KBW
I took out my clutch pedal but it looked ok so decided to put it in the vice and force the pin that attaches to the master cylinder backwards with a bit of metal bar. I was amazed at it twist backward so easy into shape . in the pictures there is a blue paint mark were it moved. it was the axel that goes through the pedal bar and joins to the master cylinder
IMG_7087.JPG
pin, the axel is a bit of tubing that had twisted. Four days trying to figure out why the new master cylinder had pulled the pedal down by about 2'' . Thought I was going to remove the bell housing , thank god I didn't have to , all working now.
 
cool123456davybfast said:
View attachment 161952 Hi KBW
I took out my clutch pedal but it looked ok so decided to put it in the vice and force the pin that attaches to the master cylinder backwards with a bit of metal bar. I was amazed at it twist backward so easy into shape . in the pictures there is a blue paint mark were it moved. it was the axel that goes through the pedal bar and joins to the master cylinderView attachment 161951 pin, the axel is a bit of tubing that had twisted. Four days trying to figure out why the new master cylinder had pulled the pedal down by about 2'' . Thought I was going to remove the bell housing , thank god I didn't have to , all working now.
Click to expand...

Well done that man, Norn' Iron style !!
 
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