puncture problems

Hello,

We had 4 BF Goodrich A/T tyres fitted in October (with inner tubes) to our defender 90 and the front passenger side tyre has gone flat 4 times since, with new inner tube fitted each time.

The garage advised that the internals of the tyre had become damaged which was causing the problem; consequently I had a new tyre fitted to what was the spare wheel (with new inner tube) and fitted to the front passenger side. This has gone flat within a couple of hours which surely must eliminate the possibility of the wheel itself causing the problem.

The wheels are original rostyle steel wheels.

Has anybody got any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks,

Josie

Could be a bad batch of tubes - had a similiar problem a couple of years ago. Had endless slow leaks with no obvious tyre problem. And the holes were always in the sidewall - never the tread.

Problem was a bad batch of tubes - indicator was very small bits of crystalline carbon embedded in the tube wall. Every bit will become a flat tyre.

Not a lot of 750X16 rubber valve tubes used these days (most are metal valves for split rims) - so a batch in a tyre shop could last a while.

alanw

why are you using tubes?

Griffdowg said:

why are you using tubes?

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thinking the same, do rostyles need tubes?

because rostyle rims are tubed

better to find some new tubeless rims and transfer them accross. the ribs inside the tyres actually rub the tube and cause slow leaks. This plus old very slightly rusty rims. Another thing to note is I would bet money that there is no band covering the centre of the wheel rims where th erivits are and this can also cause leaks or damaged tubes. No body these days fit tubes propperly they need spotless rims they need bands in and tubeless tyres shouldn't really be used with tubes because after some time the ribs will wear the tubes away.

Yep, had the same problem on my old 110 with tubed tyres - would get a puncture at least once a month due to the friction between the tyre and the tube causing holes. Got rid of it in the end, and have brand new A/Ts on my 110 with no problems at all so far even over very tough unforgiving terrain.

I had the very same problem with by old tyres and now my AT2's...so I am doing a little experiment...

I am currently running tubeless on the front and tubed on the rear. No loss in pressures on the front yet, so pretty pleased. These are on standard TD5 wheels too.

Could you try filling up a paddling pool with water and submerge the wheel & tyre in it. Then trace where you see bubbles coming from. Surely this would be take you straight to the problem?

Just dont let the neighbours see.. They might call an ambulance if they saw you getting out a paddling pool at this time of year

problem with the paddling pool idea is the air escapes through the valve when there is a puncture inside the tube 90% of the time and the leaak could be anywhere in the tube and escape through where the valve exits. Sometimes you get lucky but not often.

If a good quality tube is used then there should be no probs running tubes in tubeless marked casings (or tubed casings) come to that. You just need to follow a couple of rules . 1/. make sure that any inspection labels are removed from inside the casing and any traces of the adhesive left by them is buffed away, as this causes most punctures due to perishing of the tube. 2/. use the correct size tube 3/. make sure that any rusty areas on the rim are wirebrushed smooth so no flakes of rust remain . Then chalk the tube and fit and maintain the correct pressure for the load , unless using aired down then restrict speed to prevent heat build up. The problem of using a tubeless casing on a tubed rim , is more down to possible leaks around rivets , than any other consideration , although tubeless rims have a bead retention shoulder (a bump) just inboard of the bead seat area , this is not a crucial factor . All the above is from experience of 40yrs of 4x4 use , and as a tyre supplier .

Langers said:

Yep, had the same problem on my old 110 with tubed tyres - would get a puncture at least once a month due to the friction between the tyre and the tube causing holes. Got rid of it in the end, and have brand new A/Ts on my 110 with no problems at all so far even over very tough unforgiving terrain.

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Same here... ribs on the inside of tubeless tyres - designed for cooling I'm told - rub on the tube... I was running A/T's on H Duty rims... ditched the tubes... no more punctures....

I was getting pretty quick a tyre changes my the time I lost humour