Disco 1 Pump change

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Farmie

Member
Posts
73
Location
East Sussex
I’d like to change the fuel pump on a disco 1 auto back to a manual pump and remove air mass metre, what is the best way/modification to still have the kick down facility ?.
TIA
 
ShaunPDisco said:
You need a bracket from a manual pump fitted to an auto.
Click to expand...

Indeed :). 'bout a £100 notes from LR :eek:, so try and find one in a breakers yard is my advice. Tis a simple job - but keep all your emissions control sh*t for the next MOT ...... ;)
 
If you fit the mechanical FIP, make sure you get all the emissions crap that goes with it, and then it should be OK the year after too - it only has to be there - they can't, as yet, test that it is working :rolleyes:.
 
Farmie said:
The air mass metre is f@&£ed hence conversion back to manual pump, why would I keep it for the mot ?.
Click to expand...
As I'm sure u know, to return to the manual fuelling system will have a detrimental effect on the performance of your vehicle, so what's wrong with fitting a replacement air mass meter ? that seems simple to me, but then I've never see a Diesel engine and don't won't too. :)

As for emissions, my understanding is that the test for a both of the D1 fuelling systems is the same simple test i.e. the amount of smoke emitted from the exhaust tail pipe.




Sent from my iPad Air on a train
 
You will also need to change the injectors. I have just had mine done as I wanted to be able to play around with the pump. Had the pump set to standard before it was put in then I have dropped a boost pin which has made a great difference. Going to put one of those timing bits in next before I start to make any further changes!
 
discool said:
As I'm sure u know, to return to the manual fuelling system will have a detrimental effect on the performance of your vehicle, so what's wrong with fitting a replacement air mass meter ? that seems simple to me, but then I've never see a Diesel engine and don't won't too. :)

As for emissions, my understanding is that the test for a both of the D1 fuelling systems is the same simple test i.e. the amount of smoke emitted from the exhaust tail pipe.




Sent from my iPad Air on a train
Click to expand...
I think the performance will be a lot better with the egr and air mass metre delete with a mechanical pump retro fitted on.
 
ShaunPDisco said:
You will also need to change the injectors.
Click to expand...

True - when I de EDC'd mine I changed them for reconditioned standard ones :)

Farmie said:
I think the performance will be a lot better with the egr and air mass metre delete with a mechanical pump retro fitted on.
Click to expand...

It won't. 300Tdi EDC were 122 HP - 300Tdi VE pump was 111HP. The air flow meter is an essential part of the EDC - thus the 122HP is with it in place.

A properly tuned FIP with a FWIC will be better, a lot better , but EGT increases rapidly and will anneal the head unless you are very careful - which is why LR fitted EDC.
 
I fitted a home made chip from one of the forums but it really didn’t make any difference on mine. I could never get to the bottom of why my EDC never felt right. Gutless unless driving down a cliff. At least now I can tow better and maintain some reasonable progress in the old girl!
 
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