pulling my hair out. smokey freelander

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TBH I'm not quite sure myself but I know that people have reported smoother running engine and less smoke when they changed to centrifuge or changed a cruddy mesh one. Maybe something to do with the crankcase 'breathing easier' when the filter is clean.
 
tyronemullarkey said:
If you dont mind me asking, how would that make it smoke ?
Click to expand...

The theory goes that, an increase in crank case pressure forces more oil than normal past the oil control rings and valve guide oil seals. This contaminates the air charge causing it to smoke. It also increases pumping losses in the crankcase. In reality it's going to be a tiny but noticeable amount.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The theory goes that, an increase in crank case pressure forces more oil than normal past the oil control rings and valve guide oil seals. This contaminates the air charge causing it to smoke. It also increases pumping losses in the crankcase. In reality it's going to be a tiny but noticeable amount.
Click to expand...


I put another one in today and it has not made a jot of differance.
Any other ideas that i can try myself before I go down the injector (expensive) route. I think that I read somthing about a boost sensor ??
 
get your engine flushed, or try a forte engine cleaner(cheaper option)
Forte Air Intake Cleaner Aerosol
(requires new oil and filters once done)
my nephew works in a garage that caiters for a lot of taxi drivers in sheffield and they swear by this for mpg and a better response from the throttle, they have also just bought a machine that flushed the oil and fuel system which they also crave over its worth a try with nothing to be lost really.

could be wrong here but if you dissconnect the turbo for a short run would that rule it out as the error if it doesnt smoke?
 
now its not a freebie but my old common rail berlingo did this when the air filter was clogged and after id put petrol in it but was fine if i took the filter out, so once petrol through the system and air filter started to clog slightly it was better once id removed the filter(not the best solution).

i presume uve done an egr blank etc sorryt if uve posted that..
 
thequeenscheese said:
now its not a freebie but my old common rail berlingo did this when the air filter was clogged and after id put petrol in it but was fine if i took the filter out, so once petrol through the system and air filter started to clog slightly it was better once id removed the filter(not the best solution).

i presume uve done an egr blank etc sorryt if uve posted that..
Click to expand...

yep, done a full service with all filters and oils. silicone hose, Piersburg MAF,
synergy 2A box and EGR bypass
 
tyronemullarkey said:
yep, done a full service with all filters and oils. silicone hose, Piersburg MAF,
synergy 2A box and EGR bypass
Click to expand...
sounds daft try a few miles / short run with out the air filter, and maybe whip the crank breather off for a short run just to see what happens..

other than that maybe a compression test perhaps the rings are going?
 
If rings were going it would be blue smoke. If it's black it would be air/fuel mixture incorrect. This is normally from a hole in the boost pipes or blocked air filter or similar but they have been changed and you seem to have done all the easy things. my guess would be a sensor going out if parameters or faulty injectors.

I'm not really too hot on all that the sensors do but I know with a ronbox it can show up problems that you never noticed. Might be worth taking it to a garage and getting them to look at the codes and the sensors. A good bit of kit instead of your basic code readers will show all of your sensors values and live data to see If it's working as it should
 
Kizzeh said:
If rings were going it would be blue smoke. If it's black it would be air/fuel mixture incorrect. This is normally from a hole in the boost pipes or blocked air filter or similar but they have been changed and you seem to have done all the easy things. my guess would be a sensor going out if parameters or faulty injectors.

I'm not really too hot on all that the sensors do but I know with a ronbox it can show up problems that you never noticed. Might be worth taking it to a garage and getting them to look at the codes and the sensors. A good bit of kit instead of your basic code readers will show all of your sensors values and live data to see If it's working as it should
Click to expand...

Turbo seals? Could it be worth getting n a krypton (presume you can with diesels?)
 
regarding the crankcase breather / filter
might be worth checking that the breather valve is working as it should
ie that it's not sticking

~~~~~~~~~

i found that the large t-clamps that came with my silicone kit from dph weren't a great fit
they seemed a bit loose even when fully tightened
i replaced the large ones with a smaller size
although i guess if they were to leak slightly there would be an oily film around the join
and haven't read anyone having problems with those clamps as supplied

the one that joins the bottom intercooler outlet can come loose IF the clip does not sit behind the pipe lip
 
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Kizzeh said:
If rings were going it would be blue smoke. If it's black it would be air/fuel mixture incorrect. This is normally from a hole in the boost pipes or blocked air filter or similar but they have been changed and you seem to have done all the easy things. my guess would be a sensor going out if parameters or faulty injectors.

I'm not really too hot on all that the sensors do but I know with a ronbox it can show up problems that you never noticed. Might be worth taking it to a garage and getting them to look at the codes and the sensors. A good bit of kit instead of your basic code readers will show all of your sensors values and live data to see If it's working as it should
Click to expand...

yep, i think that the garage is my next port of call. Try to avoid them if I can as I am a tight yorkshire fella.!!!!
 
hd3 said:
regarding the crankcase breather / filter
might be worth checking that the breather valve is working as it should
ie that it's not sticking

put a new filter in the other day and gave all the casing a good clean. Also, I can run the engine without the oil cap or dripstick in and get not oil blowback.

~~~~~~~~~

i found that the large t-clamps that came with my silicone kit from dph weren't a great fit
they seemed a bit loose even when fully tightened
i replaced the large ones with a smaller size
although i guess if they were to leak slightly there would be an oily film around the join
and haven't read anyone having problems with those clamps as supplied

the one that joins the bottom intercooler outlet can come loose IF the clip does not sit behind the pipe lip
Click to expand...

I have re tightened them and to be fair they do seem fine. I will check the bottom one again though just to be sure. Good suggestion. thanks.
 
i think one way to check that the crankcase breather is working as it should
be to start the engine then remove the oil dipstick
if the breather ain't breathing - the crankcase pressure will force oil up the dipstick tube

cleaning/checking the breather unit is fairly easy
remove the crankcase filter housing ( couple of torx bolts )
wash it in white spirits and check if the valve is moving properly

pic of breather unit attached - the orange bit is the valve thingee
and the device on the right is the bmw oil-separator unit which many ppl use instead of the lr-bog-roll-filter
 

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All booked in for a diagnostic tomorrow. I will let you all know the results. Got to say that I am thinking that it is the injectors. Anyone replaced them themselves. Is it a hard job? I'm no mechanic but will tackle any job that isnt a major project. Once again, this is because i'm tight. The wife says that I am only one step from being Scottish :p:p:p
 
tyronemullarkey said:
All booked in for a diagnostic tomorrow. I will let you all know the results. Got to say that I am thinking that it is the injectors. Anyone replaced them themselves. Is it a hard job? I'm no mechanic but will tackle any job that isnt a major project. Once again, this is because i'm tight. The wife says that I am only one step from being Scottish :p:p:p
Click to expand...

I think td4 needs to be coded at a inflated cost? Sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong
 
Several people have done it.

I'm glad I didn't change mine and let the garage do it...... One of them was faulty as well as seized and they broke it trying to get it out. Cost a lot more because they are done on an exchange basis.

I personally wouldn't bother with getting them reconditioned. My injectors were supposedly reconditioned before I bought the Freelander. Well, they didn't last long. It was smoking within 2-3,000 miles. False economy as far as I'm concerned. Do it once and do it right.
 
Hi Guys,
sorry that its been a while ( dad on his last legs, been a bad month ) Anyway, time for an update. I went for the diagnostics. I was told MAF signal was low and fuel pressure sensor was low. I have a synergy box on with a Piesburg MAF so I got a new Bosch one and it made no difference. I have now got a new pressure sensor with the overlay wiring harness. I have just fitted the harness but was unable to fit the sensor as I didnt have a deep 27mm socket. I will do that tomorrow. The harness made no difference. Hope its the sensor as I am running out of ideas. I did notice that with the new Bosch MAF that the engine ran really bad like the MAF was not working, any ideas ??
 
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