puddle lights

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The Drayman

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Runcorn
Looking to fit puddle lights to a Freelander 2. These are after market and show the Land Rover logo on the floor when door opens. Anyone fitted them?
 
I think someone with a D3 has fitted them. I can't see the point of them myself. If you want light, then fit proper lights, not some tacky accessory.
 
I think someone with a D3 has fitted them. I can't see the point of them myself. If you want light, then fit proper lights, not some tacky accessory.
Think they work OK on HTRs motor - you don't need flood lights, just a bit of illumination and if they have an LR logo, its just a bit of interest.
 
I like them. A bit of frivolous bling with the logo is a nice gimmick too. I'd fit some if I could be arsed. I have too many important maintenance issues to deal with though.
 
does the wireing loom in the door have the connections cos mine are blank plastic covers ?
No, there is no wiring loom. The problem we had when trying to fit them was we were unable to fully earth the wiring and therefore couldn’t 100% be certain of a faultless connection
 
I like the idea of them, but its going to be a pain getting a line from the the courtesy light switch on the B pillar, along the sill/under the carpet, up the bottom of the A-pillar, through the grommet /trunking for the window/mirror/speaker wiring, behind the window regulator (mechanics). I've got a set of them in the cubby box on my hippo - I just never have time to fit them.

Major steps would be:
Partially remove Front Foor Seal
Remove B-pillar trim / rear door card dependano on if you have a 3 or 5 door Freelandre
Remove front door card
remove vapour barrier (polythene sheet inside door card on door frame)
Remove door sill trims
Semove footwell trim panel from bottom of A-pillar
Holesaw the bottom of the door to accept the lamp
Run wires from lamp back to behind A pillar trim
Splice one wire to vehicle body as earth - run other wire to tie into courtesy light switch
Check polarity is right way round and light illuminates (LED's only work one way)
- If it doesnt illuminate switch wires around
Fit lamp when working
Refit vapour barrier
Refit door card
Refit B pillar trim / rear door card
Refit foot well trim on bottom of A Pillar
Refit door seal
Refit sill trim
Repeat all of above for other side side of car.

An alternative, possibly easier way of getting power for the lights into the doors would be instead of removing both B Pillar trims to get to the switches, start by removing IIRC the right hand A Pillar trim, as the wiring for the courtesy lights runs up there, purple and white wires on my 2002 but colours may change with spec/year - and I cannot remember which was which. Find out which wire is the constant live and which one is the switched one, and take one splice from the switched wire and split it to both doors. The biggest downside of going with this shortcut is that when one door is opened both lights will energise, prematurely wearing out the lamps and possibly creating an odd looking effect whereby the gap around the bottom of the closed door may have white light emanating from it.
 
I like the idea of them, but its going to be a pain getting a line from the the courtesy light switch on the B pillar, along the sill/under the carpet, up the bottom of the A-pillar, through the grommet /trunking for the window/mirror/speaker wiring, behind the window regulator (mechanics). I've got a set of them in the cubby box on my hippo - I just never have time to fit them.

Major steps would be:
Partially remove Front Foor Seal
Remove B-pillar trim / rear door card dependano on if you have a 3 or 5 door Freelandre
Remove front door card
remove vapour barrier (polythene sheet inside door card on door frame)
Remove door sill trims
Semove footwell trim panel from bottom of A-pillar
Holesaw the bottom of the door to accept the lamp
Run wires from lamp back to behind A pillar trim
Splice one wire to vehicle body as earth - run other wire to tie into courtesy light switch
Check polarity is right way round and light illuminates (LED's only work one way)
- If it doesnt illuminate switch wires around
Fit lamp when working
Refit vapour barrier
Refit door card
Refit B pillar trim / rear door card
Refit foot well trim on bottom of A Pillar
Refit door seal
Refit sill trim
Repeat all of above for other side side of car.

An alternative, possibly easier way of getting power for the lights into the doors would be instead of removing both B Pillar trims to get to the switches, start by removing IIRC the right hand A Pillar trim, as the wiring for the courtesy lights runs up there, purple and white wires on my 2002 but colours may change with spec/year - and I cannot remember which was which. Find out which wire is the constant live and which one is the switched one, and take one splice from the switched wire and split it to both doors. The biggest downside of going with this shortcut is that when one door is opened both lights will energise, prematurely wearing out the lamps and possibly creating an odd looking effect whereby the gap around the bottom of the closed door may have white light emanating from it.
 
Do you or any other members know where I can get a pair of front headlight guard fixing brackets for a f l 2 on a 62 plate ?

In my experience, accessory fixings only come with the accessories when supplied new, and aren't generally available as spares later on.
 
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