Yeah. Unfortunately I wondered the same thing. To be fair if you use both hands to pull it to the top, it just about works, but thats no good for my wife when she drives it.
Freelander 2 (LR2) Prospective first time FL2 buyer needs guidance please
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Now i'm confused (easily done).
I have contacted a local Landrover specialist near me (Steve Hill Landrovers in Bristol), and asked them to quote for servicing the Haldex.
They have said its not something they would consider doing as its not on the LR servicing schedule.
They stated that they havent serviced one in 17 years and havent had any problems, and that if I wanted it done it would require removal of the pump and a not inconsiderable amount of work as its a sealed unit.
Steve Hill I believe are a well respected garage.
Does this sound correct to you? Most of what i have read seems to suggest is should be serived and is a relatively easy job (though I wouldnt DIY it myself)
I have contacted a local Landrover specialist near me (Steve Hill Landrovers in Bristol), and asked them to quote for servicing the Haldex.
They have said its not something they would consider doing as its not on the LR servicing schedule.
They stated that they havent serviced one in 17 years and havent had any problems, and that if I wanted it done it would require removal of the pump and a not inconsiderable amount of work as its a sealed unit.
Steve Hill I believe are a well respected garage.
Does this sound correct to you? Most of what i have read seems to suggest is should be serived and is a relatively easy job (though I wouldnt DIY it myself)
Hippo
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There is a lot of confusion around the FL2 haldex, with many peeps misquoting the facts online.
I find it difficult to accept someone in the land rover repair world hasn't come across haldex failure on the FL2 and the reasons why.
It is true that it's not on the official LR service guide for the FL2. But it has been found that through use the filter within the haldex gets blocked, so needs replaced. The oil in the haldex needs replaced anorl as that gets dirty. Both due to contamination through use with clutch dust. If the filter blocks up then it puts pressure on the pump, then the pump fails.
Seasoned Freelander 2 owners (that's peeps who actually own them) have been working to solve the puzzle for quite some time. The result being to replace the haldex oil every 20k miles, and to replace the filter in the haldex every 40k miles.
Through eggsperiance of seasoned Freelander 2 owners, we (I've got one anorl) have found this to be a way of making the haldex last longer and to avoid costly failure. In particular failure caused by a blocked filter with the haldex, which then causes pump failure.The theory is supported by looking at haldex oil and the filter, and roughly how long it takes to get dirty. So we change them before they get to the state where they will cause failure. If oil and filter are changed as said then you potentially avoid haldex failure, or certainly reduce the risk of it, by performing this preventative maintenance work.
Video below how to do it yerself.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-2-haldex-oil-and-filter-change-video.352168/
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GrumpyGel
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I'm not particularly clever but in my mind a filter is there because what its filtering gets dirty and it needs to collect that dirt so that it does not damage something.
It can only collect so much dirt until it either fails to collect the dirt or it clogs up and stops what it is filtering passing through it. Either of those situations is going to damage something!
I would have thought that there are not many filters in this world that should not be regularly changed.
It can only collect so much dirt until it either fails to collect the dirt or it clogs up and stops what it is filtering passing through it. Either of those situations is going to damage something!
I would have thought that there are not many filters in this world that should not be regularly changed.
raywin
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It's a strange story LR say it does not need service but Volvo use the same unit and they do service it, not convinced it gets clutch dust in there as it's a multi plate wet clutch with metal plates running in oil.
It has been much discussed over the years, take a look here https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16714.html
I did mine last year
It has been much discussed over the years, take a look here https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16714.html
I did mine last year
sharmanator43
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I read this whole thread with interest, the other guys and gals on here know way more than me but I can say I bought my FL2 two and a half years ago and entered in to ownership with exactly the same questions as you, I have had to spend some money on it but I can honestly say I wouldn’t part with it for the world, I have a late 2007 XS and unfortunately I did have to replace the rear diff with a reconditioned unit with uprated bearings, the haldex pump was also seized so this had to be changed too and surprise surprise I have now replaced all four door latches which will be your problem on the intermittent door locking issue, they are a common fault on the older FL2 and just as I’d replace one a few weeks later another one would fail until you find you’ve done all four, with the diff the garage told me they were pretty sure mine was still on the original bearings which at 67k they were surprised lasted as long as they did, everyone on here will tell you the pre facelift FL2 had weak bearings from factory and most only found they got sub 50k out of them so for yours to be at the mileage it is and you have no grinding noise from the rear it’s probably fair to say it’s been done, others on here may disagree and like everyone else is saying definitely get the haldex unit serviced, you’ll only know it’s failed when you need 4WD and it won’t kick in because your pump has seized,, I also change my engine oil on a regular basis, the Td4 does react positively to fresh oil, I’d certainly do it more often than the recommended gap, all that said I don’t regret buying mine for one minute, we go to the highlands a couple of times a year, it’s a great family car, lovely to drive, extremely safe, very capable, and lastly I’d say don’t think about the things that could go wrong just enjoy it....
Many thanks for the replies. They make an interesting read and compelling argument for getting the Haldex serviced, which makes me question why the local LR specialist wouldnt recommend it (the pesimist in me thinks maybe its more profitable for him to repair/replace broken Haldex than service them and keep them running?).
Regardless of how easy a DIY it may be, i'm no mechanic and am ham fisted at best so will need to do some research to see if there are any other garages in the local area that would service it.
In the meantime and referencing another thread on the front page of the forum, is it worth me testing the Haldex to ensure it is working or are there tell tale signs if all werent well?
Thanks again for everyones help.
Regardless of how easy a DIY it may be, i'm no mechanic and am ham fisted at best so will need to do some research to see if there are any other garages in the local area that would service it.
In the meantime and referencing another thread on the front page of the forum, is it worth me testing the Haldex to ensure it is working or are there tell tale signs if all werent well?
Thanks again for everyones help.
paul99
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Keep an eye out for local Volvo specialists, they may be willing to service it for you if you can't find a Land Rover mechanic to do it.
Hippo
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I don't know what the o'fishal term is for it so call it clutch dust. It's whatever wears and creates a fine particle sludge from the ones I've looked at.
sharmanator43
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sharmanator43
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Ignore above mistake it’s early lol, so I think you might be referring to a post I made, the conclusion from that was to engage sand mode as this turns the Haldex on permanently or as also kindly suggested find some wet grass and give it the beans whilst turning sharply, the error message I got when it tried to engage the haldex but couldn’t was ‘Transmission Fault Reduced Traction’ or something similar, if you get that then it’s probably bad news, I sort of agree with you, I do a lot to my FL2 myself but somehow changing the haldex pump or even servicing it seemed more like a garage job even tho I’d do brake pads and discs myself not sure why, it’s worth trying to spin those back wheels up though that’s how I found out I had a problem
Thx.
So does engaging sand mode immediately turn the Haldex on, and if I then drive it and get an error message I know i have problems, and if it drives OK in sand mode without any dashboard warnings then the Haldex is 'probably' OK?
Can I just engage sand mode and drive it on a normal road to test? There isn't much sand near where I live!
Would love to test it thoroughly now so that if anything is wrong I can go back to the dealer and hope they will fix it.
Sorry for silly questions but this is my first Land Rover and first 4x4.
Also I have just had a quote from Bristol Transmissions of £310 inc VAT to service the Haldex. Does that sound reasonable?
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raywin
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Doesn't matter if you are not on sand, or not on a hill when you engage hill decent, the vehicle wont worry.
That seems expensive the oil and filter cost me around £40 last year and it's not a long job even when you are working in the drive at home.
raywin
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sharmanator43
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That does sound very expensive, I had a new Haldex pump fitted for less than that, I think the unit was £180 and they charged me an hours work which was something like £55, maybe with mine it was easier because they already had the whole diff out, I’d certainly get another quote, that sounds like a quote to replace it, have you got a stoney car park near you, a big pub or garden centre, might be easiest for you, find a quiet stoney car park and pull away really sharply, you’ll get the fault message if your front wheels slip a bit, it doesn’t take a lot, and as probably mentioned before you can still drive it ok with a failed Haldex it just won’t be 4WD
That's interesting.
In my naivety I thought Haldex units would be much more expensive. If they are only a couple of hundred pounds to replace, it begs the question why bother servicing it (if you cant do it cheaply yourself) and instead just replace it when it breaks? Though I appreciate environmentally that's not a good stance to take.
The £310 quote does seem expensive. It look like the kits are approx £30 + the fluid and 2'ish hours labor. maybe they have very expensive hourly rates? I will try and get a quote from elsewhere.
sharmanator43
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I must admit I did have a quick look for prices as mine was changed over 2 years ago and the cheapest I can find now is £260 for a brand new pump, I’m guessing as the cars get older they make less of the parts and the price goes up, but it’s still cheaper than your service
Thanks for taking the time to look that up.
I have had another quote from Broad Lane Land Rovers (who are unfortunately a bit further away from me) of £240 inc. VAT which is a bit more reasonable.
I put the FL2 in sand mode last night and tried some hard acceleration and cornering. I didnt get any issues and the only message that popped up on the dash LCD display was of the axle and wheels (which I think is the ETC showing which way the wheels are pointing) so hopefully its operating OK at the moment.
As I read more forum posts about the FL2 and Haldex in particular, I have discovered that having mismatched tyres, or uneven tread depth can cause problems. The dealer I purchased the car from put 1 brand new tyre on the rear offside. Subsequently it has 7mm tread depth vs the other side which has 4mm. Is that likely to cause me any problems? Do all the enthusiasts here religiously change both tyres at the same time to ensure both sides are completely even?
Obviously if that's the case I need to get myself to the tyre garage quick and get the 4mm changed so as not to cause any more problems.
Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks in advance
I have had another quote from Broad Lane Land Rovers (who are unfortunately a bit further away from me) of £240 inc. VAT which is a bit more reasonable.
I put the FL2 in sand mode last night and tried some hard acceleration and cornering. I didnt get any issues and the only message that popped up on the dash LCD display was of the axle and wheels (which I think is the ETC showing which way the wheels are pointing) so hopefully its operating OK at the moment.
As I read more forum posts about the FL2 and Haldex in particular, I have discovered that having mismatched tyres, or uneven tread depth can cause problems. The dealer I purchased the car from put 1 brand new tyre on the rear offside. Subsequently it has 7mm tread depth vs the other side which has 4mm. Is that likely to cause me any problems? Do all the enthusiasts here religiously change both tyres at the same time to ensure both sides are completely even?
Obviously if that's the case I need to get myself to the tyre garage quick and get the 4mm changed so as not to cause any more problems.
Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks in advance
sharmanator43
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https://www.freelanderspecialist.co...r-sure-you-wont-damage-your-rear-differential
this says it all really, in fact this is a great site to learn loads about the FL2, these guys are very passionate about them, I certainly changed my 2 rear at the same time, it’s not cheap but worth it in the long run
this says it all really, in fact this is a great site to learn loads about the FL2, these guys are very passionate about them, I certainly changed my 2 rear at the same time, it’s not cheap but worth it in the long run
Hippo
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A haldex service kit which includes the correct oil and filter is £80 to buy.
If you put yer FL2 in one of the terrain modes while on tarmac it will still drive. The different options relate to the type of surface. Mud and ruts doesn't just mean green lanes. It's for use on ploughed fields. Sand is sand as well as other fine partial material like sand. If running permanent 4x4 on tarmac the haldex can take out the "transmission stress" but it's not ideal to drive round in 4x4 doing this as there's no need and why put yer vehicle under more stress than needed.
Road testing doesn't really tell you if the haldex is working. You need to test it's been activated to provide 4x4 to know for sure it's working ok, and to get drive from the rear wheels as part of that test. I do this by cross axle-ing my FL2 while in normal road driving mode. The traction control kicks in and the haldex will be activated to pass drive to the rear wheels, when it's sensed it's required. Easy enough to so.
I do it using a road I know where the grass running alongside the road side has a raised verge by the kerb, which falls away to a lower flat section. I drive diagonally from the lower flat grass, up the grass verge, so the left front and rear right wheels stay on the ground at all times. The front right will raise in the air after it goes over the verge before it lands on the tarmac. When it does land the rear left wheel will then have raised in the air. It's made easier by there being a raised normal height kerb on the road with grass next to it. As the front right wheel lifts in the air, traction control kicks in and the haldex is activated, so the rear wheels both drive me forward while on the grass. They must be helping as the front left won't pull my FL2 forwards with the grip it has, on its own at that angle.
It's not a good idea to drive up slopes diagonally as you risk rolling yer vehicle. The slope on the grass verge I use isn't steep. So I'm happy to use it and feel safe doing so. I have a lot of eggperiance driving oft road so I'm happy with doing this. I can appreciate others may not be. If yer not comfortable doing this then best not to try doing it. Danger never takes a day oft.
There's other opportunities about to do similar. Or take the easier option of finding some very wet grass and pulling away fast on it. Leave it in first gear. The longer the grass the betterer. Get someone to safely film the rear wheels from behind if yer not sure if they're being driven by the car powering them.
If you put yer FL2 in one of the terrain modes while on tarmac it will still drive. The different options relate to the type of surface. Mud and ruts doesn't just mean green lanes. It's for use on ploughed fields. Sand is sand as well as other fine partial material like sand. If running permanent 4x4 on tarmac the haldex can take out the "transmission stress" but it's not ideal to drive round in 4x4 doing this as there's no need and why put yer vehicle under more stress than needed.
Road testing doesn't really tell you if the haldex is working. You need to test it's been activated to provide 4x4 to know for sure it's working ok, and to get drive from the rear wheels as part of that test. I do this by cross axle-ing my FL2 while in normal road driving mode. The traction control kicks in and the haldex will be activated to pass drive to the rear wheels, when it's sensed it's required. Easy enough to so.
I do it using a road I know where the grass running alongside the road side has a raised verge by the kerb, which falls away to a lower flat section. I drive diagonally from the lower flat grass, up the grass verge, so the left front and rear right wheels stay on the ground at all times. The front right will raise in the air after it goes over the verge before it lands on the tarmac. When it does land the rear left wheel will then have raised in the air. It's made easier by there being a raised normal height kerb on the road with grass next to it. As the front right wheel lifts in the air, traction control kicks in and the haldex is activated, so the rear wheels both drive me forward while on the grass. They must be helping as the front left won't pull my FL2 forwards with the grip it has, on its own at that angle.
It's not a good idea to drive up slopes diagonally as you risk rolling yer vehicle. The slope on the grass verge I use isn't steep. So I'm happy to use it and feel safe doing so. I have a lot of eggperiance driving oft road so I'm happy with doing this. I can appreciate others may not be. If yer not comfortable doing this then best not to try doing it. Danger never takes a day oft.
There's other opportunities about to do similar. Or take the easier option of finding some very wet grass and pulling away fast on it. Leave it in first gear. The longer the grass the betterer. Get someone to safely film the rear wheels from behind if yer not sure if they're being driven by the car powering them.
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