Series 3 Prop Shaft.
- Thread starter layfin
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jamesmartin
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rtc3346 it should be,which is 82mm across from brg cap too cap whereas the later rtc3458 is 755mm
Brian Waterman
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My son's series 3 petrol 2.25 LWB. at about steady 30 the vehicle seems to slightly jerk back and fore. Methinks it may be wear in't propshaft bearings. If so, does the gearbox have to be moved to remove propshafts ? If not can you give me a rough idea of how to renew the needle bearings, if that is what the problem is. Thankyou
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
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The prop shafts are telescopic. Once one end is unbolted they can be pushed into themselves. Before you remove anything you should check this joint for vertical movement. There shouldn’t be any,
Scalleys Dad
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And if you are scrambling about underneath to remove either propshaft do some prep by lubricating the nuts and bolts at least a couple of times……….. from the side. I tried WD40 and it’s numerous cousins but eventually resorted to ‘rustola’ on the last two rear bolts that refused to shift. Also as much leverage as you can get and a tight fitting spanner.
As Bob says basic checks first though. I virtually talked myself into replacing the front propshaft as the diagnosis to a problem pointed towards it, it is very likely to have been the third thing I replaced AFTER the propshaft.
As Bob says basic checks first though. I virtually talked myself into replacing the front propshaft as the diagnosis to a problem pointed towards it, it is very likely to have been the third thing I replaced AFTER the propshaft.
Brian Waterman
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Thanks very much.
Brian Waterman
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Thank you very much
Bobsticle
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You can’t service the linear slide joint so any give in it means a new shaft. It’s simply not worth replacing UVs if this is worn. For the price of a new shaft it’s hardly worth the faff replacing them anyway. I know I quickly decided life’s too short 
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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Ask him when he last greased it. If he doesn't know, the UJs are probably knackered. And the sliding joint well on it's way too.
Like Bob^^^^^^, I don't bother to repair them anymore. New ones aren't a lot of money. Grease all nipples before you fit a new one, and regularly thereafter, and you won't get further problems.
The propshaft removal tools, available for a few quid, speed up removal considerably. You have to loosen the nuts first, but after that, you can use a socket to unwind them, instead of turning the spanners hundreds of times.
Colthebrummie
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I totally agree. Some people seem to be able to change uv joints easily but Ive never managed.to do it in less than an hour and without losing a couple of inches of skin and whats left of my temper.You can’t service the linear slide joint so any give in it means a new shaft. It’s simply not worth replacing UVs if this is worn. For the price of a new shaft it’s hardly worth the faff replacing them anyway. I know I quickly decided life’s too short
Col
Bobsticle
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I have one of those, somewhere
Couldn’t find it when I whipped the rear diff out.
Another ruddy faff
Brian Waterman
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You guys are great. Thanks very much. Oh ! Bobstickle, my life isn't to short - at 87 I am still able to get around (slowly), pass knowledge onto my son (as well as tools nowadays (reversal of roles)) and we enjoy working together - well, he does most of the work of course. The expert knowledge and experience you all offer make repair/maintenance a lot easier.
Bobsticle
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Your welcome. Always ready to have disasters so others can avoid them. Once upon a time it was the norm to change UJs but at the moment a full prop ain’t much more. Not sure for how long though.You guys are great. Thanks very much. Oh ! Bobstickle, my life isn't to short - at 87 I am still able to get around (slowly), pass knowledge onto my son (as well as tools nowadays (reversal of roles)) and we enjoy working together - well, he does most of the work of course. The expert knowledge and experience you all offer make repair/maintenance a lot easier.
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