Prop Shaft on the Way Out - how long have I got?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Al2O3 said:
Thanks for all the sensible advice gents. I've order Hardy Spicer, front and back, from LR Direct. Two business day delivery so should be here by Friday.
Click to expand...

Have you got a press ?
I did mine the first time without one using sockets in a vice etc - what a pallava. Didn't last that long either...
Next time I borrowed a friends press (well used it in his garage) easier but still took a while.They lasted longer but were just starting to cause vibration after a couple of years. My mechanic friend said that typically the whole shaft was balanced after the UJ's were fitted, but, given that Defenders aren't doing super high speeds and spinning the prop shafts at too high a speed, I reckoned it wasn't an issue.

My friend UJ's failed a while back and he needed the car so we bought the ready rolled prop shaft. £52 inc vat and next day delivery, within 30 mins we had whipped the old one off and installed the new. The UJ's were GKN with grease nipples and the shaft was correctly balanced. That was my 'FFS, this is the way to do it' moment.
Within a month we had also changed the back one which made a mahoosive difference to the car, especially @ 65mph on the bypass. That was 2 years and about 17K miles ago. They shafts/UJ's still look brand new.
Trailor Willy (along the road) has just fitted a new rear prop shaft to his TD5 110 after his UJ started to rattle.
He took it to a garage, where they did other work, apart from the above reasons the labour charge to fit 2 new UJ's was far greater than buying a new ready rolled shaft.
 
Al2O3 said:
Thanks for all the sensible advice gents. I've order Hardy Spicer, front and back, from LR Direct. Two business day delivery so should be here by Friday.
Click to expand...

I enjoyed doing mine it's so long since I did a HS prop shaft joint, steady job on a Saturday morning.
The prop shaft tool let's you get into the bolts which are pretty difficult without.
Press lots of grease in the bearing cups to help keep the needle rollers in place, it's a pain if one falls out when you assemble it.
 
kermit_rr said:
no guesses what you're doing at the weekend :)
Click to expand...
Absolutely no prizes there, mate :)

miktdish said:
Have you got a press ?
I did mine the first time without one using sockets in a vice etc - what a pallava. Didn't last that long either...
Next time I borrowed a friends press (well used it in his garage) easier but still took a while.They lasted longer but were just starting to cause vibration after a couple of years. My mechanic friend said that typically the whole shaft was balanced after the UJ's were fitted, but, given that Defenders aren't doing super high speeds and spinning the prop shafts at too high a speed, I reckoned it wasn't an issue.

My friend UJ's failed a while back and he needed the car so we bought the ready rolled prop shaft. £52 inc vat and next day delivery, within 30 mins we had whipped the old one off and installed the new. The UJ's were GKN with grease nipples and the shaft was correctly balanced. That was my 'FFS, this is the way to do it' moment.
Within a month we had also changed the back one which made a mahoosive difference to the car, especially @ 65mph on the bypass. That was 2 years and about 17K miles ago. They shafts/UJ's still look brand new.
Trailor Willy (along the road) has just fitted a new rear prop shaft to his TD5 110 after his UJ started to rattle.
He took it to a garage, where they did other work, apart from the above reasons the labour charge to fit 2 new UJ's was far greater than buying a new ready rolled shaft.
Click to expand...
One of the reasons I've gone for completely new drive shafts. I think my post saying Hardy Spicer might have made you think UJ's only. However, I've bought Hardy Spicer branded full half shafts.
raywin said:
I enjoyed doing mine it's so long since I did a HS prop shaft joint, steady job on a Saturday morning.
The prop shaft tool let's you get into the bolts which are pretty difficult without.
Press lots of grease in the bearing cups to help keep the needle rollers in place, it's a pain if one falls out when you assemble it.
Click to expand...
As above, Ray. I've bought two full drive shafts. I thought after 207K miles without any issues until now, they were probably past their best and deserved to be retired.
 
I tend to buy complete prop shafts as that way you get a new splined section as well. I've replaced a few of the roller bearing spiders separately, but having had one break up on me, I realised just how thin the metal is around the yokes, so I'm less inclined to take the risk now.
 
Brown said:
I tend to buy complete prop shafts as that way you get a new splined section as well. I've replaced a few of the roller bearing spiders separately, but having had one break up on me, I realised just how thin the metal is around the yokes, so I'm less inclined to take the risk now.
Click to expand...
My thinking too. The original splines, at 207K, owe me nothing. I'm very happy with how they've lasted.
 
Took the prop shafts off this afternoon ready for new ones coming tomorrow. Nuts and bolts came off no bother. Again, probably due to the greasing regime as grease had crept on to many of them.
This is the one that's gone.
20210902_181848.jpg

Fair bit of movement in it, but the other side was solid. All other joints, front and back, were tight and moved smoothly. Couldn't detect any movement in the splines either, just nice, smooth sliding back and forth.
 
Aye, maybe 'funny' isn't the right word but what youi are doing will only be beneficial to the transmission :)
Normally you do feel a vibration when the UJ's die, so hopefully it will be smoother.

Just as an aside the rear diff input seal and drive member is easy to replace/examine.
Just hoof that big nut off. The kit is STC4858 and is under £30 for a Britpart and just over £45 for an OEM. The nut tightens to 130NM.
As you've said your landy's at over 200K it would be worth checking, any sign of wear on the teeth or where the seal rubs, replace it.....
 
miktdish said:
Aye, maybe 'funny' isn't the right word but what youi are doing will only be beneficial to the transmission :)
Normally you do feel a vibration when the UJ's die, so hopefully it will be smoother.

Just as an aside the rear diff input seal and drive member is easy to replace/examine.
Just hoof that big nut off. The kit is STC4858 and is under £30 for a Britpart and just over £45 for an OEM. The nut tightens to 130NM.
As you've said your landy's at over 200K it would be worth checking, any sign of wear on the teeth or where the seal rubs, replace it.....
Click to expand...
I've not planned for that I'm afraid, so new props straight on tomorrow, or Saturday if they arrive really late.

Yes, hopefully it will be smoother, although it felt ok. You never know what you've become accustomed to though :)
 
mick the builder said:
Yes won't it! Not.
Click to expand...
Ha ha, not great. But, I'm thinking in that case it will just be a new Gates aux belt. And, the squeak from the belt made me look at the prop shafts and alerted me to the UJ going.

tottot said:
The yolk on your old prop is not damaged and as long as the splines are good you could fit a new UJ in your own time and have a spare at the ready. Its what I do.
Click to expand...
I'm already planning on doing this and probably will, just for the experience of doing it. My only thoughts are that the old props have rectangular lumps of steel welded on, which I presume are balance weights. These are highly corroded, with bits falling off, so I presume they'll be out if balance now?
 
Those are the balance weights. If you can weld a new bit of the same size will be good enough. If not you can still use the prop as an emergency at slower speeds.
 
tottot said:
Those are the balance weights. If you can weld a new bit of the same size will be good enough. If not you can still use the prop as an emergency at slower speeds.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm going to do that. Repair it, just for the fun/ experience and keep them on the shelf just in case I end up in this situation again.
I've just had a text to say my driver Jim, will deliver my parcel between 15:46-16:46 today. :)
 
You just about got away with that. I've had one go on a dual carriageway - you won't forget the noise, even if it doesn't cause any damage!
As you say, at over 200k, it's time for a new prop - they have lasted well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
What IS this noise ?
Replies
12
Views
1K
dogdog1
D
Duncydoo
Help lost drive on way to carfest…
Replies
4
Views
493
miktdish
miktdish
julianf
Half shaft oil seal removal ?
Replies
6
Views
288
miktdish
miktdish
Zorro587
Noise gone but prop shaft queries abound
Replies
14
Views
1K
Chris_68
C
T
FL2 Alternator pulley shaft....??
Replies
4
Views
619
pwood999
pwood999
Back
Top