Project Betsy - Series 2A 1966 SWB in Luxembourg

peejaysea · May 1, 2015

boguing said:
That's where the South American river can help...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expe...=UTF8&qid=1430512908&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+out

or you could try these - which I have not.

Irwin Bolt Grip Remover 5PC Base set 394001: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Thanks again - had thought of Amazon TBH - starting to increase my Wish List (thankfully my birthdays is in a few weeks!) - I was going to ask the forum what tools / equipment you can get by on but will search to see if it has been done before,

Blackburn · May 2, 2015

Easy outs tend to snap easy the latest method is to drill it out with left hand twist drill ie runs in reverse odds are as it bites into the stud and heats it whilst drilling it will extract the remains.
left hand drills | eBay

peejaysea · May 2, 2015

Blackburn said:
Easy outs tend to snap easy the latest method is to drill it out with left hand twist drill ie runs in reverse odds are as it bites into the stud and heats it whilst drilling it will extract the remains.
left hand drills | eBay

Thanks Blackburn, will give them a look-see.
Plan on having a big Wish List for dropping hints to the family for my upcoming birthday!

peejaysea · May 2, 2015

I seem to recall reading in a thread on the forum about protecting your chassis with a mix of old engine oil mixed with diesel ...... But am buggered if I can find the thread again despite searching. So....

1. Any experience of doing this?
2. Is there a % formula for the mix or do you just " mix it"
3. If at a later stage you wanted to work on the chassis, weld, waxoyl etc. how hard is it to get the oil/diesel protection off?
Any thoughts on this chaps?...
Cheers
Paul

Jasper74 · May 2, 2015

What sort of condition is chassis in? Has it ever been treated or waxoyled prior?

peejaysea · May 2, 2015

Jasper74 said:
What sort of condition is chassis in? Has it ever been treated or waxoyled prior?

Hi Jasper

It appears to be in pretty good condition (IMHO). The PO did a refurb job in 2011/ 2012 and it would appear he has used POR 15 (according to receipts that were in the folder that came with her). Not sure if there has been an undercoat or anything else on it but there are "sheets" of ?? POR ?? that are flaking off in a couple of areas so not too sure if this is down to poor prep or if this would be the case due to ageing etc? Don't believe that there has been waxoyl on it TBH.

There are some superficial areas of surface rust (only I hope) that I would therefore like to cover as part of the "running restoration" of Betsy.

Cheers
Paul

mrchurchill109 · May 4, 2015

Re: POR15 sheeting off:

Likely that was poor prep - used with the primer that stuff usually sticks like grim death.

TBH I would not use used motor oil and Diesel mix - that stuff is nasty with combusion products, acids and the like and really is not environmentally friendly.

If you feel the need to use an oil mix use cheap hydraulic oil or the like - that won't have all the engine nasies in it and won't make so much of an environmental mess.

Were it me I'd be wirebrushing off the loose and flaking paint, cleaning it thoroughly with a non-petrochemical solvent, then applying a phosphoric acid treatment of some sort over the rust (which will turn the rust to iron phosphate). You can then paint over that with chassis black or whatever. Don't use Hammerite...useless crap since it's been reformulated.

Re: Ezi-Outs and the like: Be very careful using them, as if you snap them (not at all unusual) then you have a hardened bit of steel stuck in the broken bolt. I can't stand the damn things - don't have them in my shop and haven't for a very long time. Personally I drill undersized, working my way up till I'm just under the bolt size, Then you can typically collapse the remains of the fastener and extract it with little to no damage to the threads if still present.

Sounds like you're having fun with it - enjoy!

Alan

peejaysea · May 4, 2015

mrchurchill109 said:
Re: POR15 sheeting off:

Likely that was poor prep - used with the primer that stuff usually sticks like grim death.

TBH I would not use used motor oil and Diesel mix - that stuff is nasty with combusion products, acids and the like and really is not environmentally friendly.

If you feel the need to use an oil mix use cheap hydraulic oil or the like - that won't have all the engine nasies in it and won't make so much of an environmental mess.

Were it me I'd be wirebrushing off the loose and flaking paint, cleaning it thoroughly with a non-petrochemical solvent, then applying a phosphoric acid treatment of some sort over the rust (which will turn the rust to iron phosphate). You can then paint over that with chassis black or whatever. Don't use Hammerite...useless crap since it's been reformulated.

Re: Ezi-Outs and the like: Be very careful using them, as if you snap them (not at all unusual) then you have a hardened bit of steel stuck in the broken bolt. I can't stand the damn things - don't have them in my shop and haven't for a very long time. Personally I drill undersized, working my way up till I'm just under the bolt size, Then you can typically collapse the remains of the fastener and extract it with little to no damage to the threads if still present.

Sounds like you're having fun with it - enjoy!

Alan

Thanks Alan for your input. Yep - sun is shining and having fun. My parents arrived from the UK yesterday bringing the rear bench seats and lap bets / service kit and some other bits, so looking forward to tinkering proper this coming weekend.

Thanks also for the comment re chassis protection - again, not and a real good look underneath to see what is what and everything was initial observations, just cautious and trying to gleam info / experience from others.

Thinking about heading back to the UK mid May and possibly hitting the Old Sodbury Sortout - never been but have heard good things.

Regards
Paul

peejaysea · May 4, 2015

OK so here are some long awaited (?) - well promised - photo's of Betsy. A couple of the bulkhead usual problem areas. A little rust on both sides that will need some work in the (near?) future.

can't seem to download more than 2 images at present - so adding them to an Album under my profile if you want to have a dig around....

Cheers
Paul

peejaysea · May 6, 2015

So latest update .... 6 May.....cooked ignition coil and going nowhere until a replacement arrives! Dooh

still....sun was shining today

mrchurchill109 · May 7, 2015

peejaysea said:
So latest update .... 6 May.....cooked ignition coil and going nowhere until a replacement arrives! Dooh

still....sun was shining today

Your local FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) should have a ballasted coil in their supply. There's nowt special about that coil - as long as it has a built-in resistor you can use it.

That part was common to just about all LBCs, so shouldn't be too difficult to track down locally.

ajr

peejaysea · May 9, 2015

mrchurchill109 said:
Your local FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) should have a ballasted coil in their supply. There's nowt special about that coil - as long as it has a built-in resistor you can use it.

That part was common to just about all LBCs, so shouldn't be too difficult to track down locally.

ajr

She lives! Managed to get a coil form a local landy friendly chap and within 10 mins she was alive and kicking!

Happy Days!

peejaysea · May 12, 2015

Hi
could anybody please point me in the right direction as to trying to ascertain if Betsy would originally have had "bumperettes" or the such on the rear crossmember? She has had a replacement (military) rear crossmember.

Any guidance would be appreciated.
Cheers
Paul

peejaysea · May 20, 2015

peejaysea said:
Hi
could anybody please point me in the right direction as to trying to ascertain if Betsy would originally have had "bumperettes" or the such on the rear crossmember? She has had a replacement (military) rear crossmember.

Any guidance would be appreciated.
Cheers
Paul

Morning All
Bump to the above question - if anyone has any ideas??

Also, I believe that the pipes shown here may have been connected to an oil cooler? What do you think?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=71839&d=1432118281
Is there an advantage to having one or not - apparently you can still source the original MoD ones...

Thanks
Paul

mrchurchill109 · May 20, 2015

peejaysea said:
Morning All
Also, I believe that the pipes shown here may have been connected to an oil cooler? What do you think?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=71839&d=1432118281
Is there an advantage to having one or not - apparently you can still source the original MoD ones...

Thanks
Paul

No idea on the bumperettes - my ex-MOD 110 has them but that is no indicator. If you like them and the traffic around you is daft enough to tangle with a Land-Rover go ahead and fit them.

As far as the oil cooler goes you do have the chassis mounts for one - the mounting plates are there on the chassis. Would I fit one? No. Unless you are going to work that engine HARD in serious heat for long periods of time the oil cooler won't buy you anything. It's also another thing to go wrong, and Land-Rovers don't need extra excuses to leak.

I've always thought of those as a good fitment for an FFR or the like that's going to sit and run and run and run as a stationary engine - and those need all the help they can get to stay cool.

You're in Luxembourg - not the bleedin' Sahara!

Just one sad old Rover git's opinion... -Alan

peejaysea · May 20, 2015

mrchurchill109 said:
Just one sad old Rover git's opinion... -Alan

Thanks again Alan, at least there is another sad old git out there! Will keep the options open - you never know where Betsy will end up!

Cheers
Paul

Project Betsy - Series 2A 1966 SWB in Luxembourg

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