Problems with Richard's Chassis
- Thread starter defender1985
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When they hot dip a chassis its not like dipping a a farm gate where they hang it from one corner and basically plonk it in, they hold the chassis square on to the galv tank, and dip very slowly to allow the heat to progressively work its way up the chassis, obviously you can get some distortion this way, but it's greatly reduced, you also have to have the chassis properly prepared with holes drilled into enclosed areas of the chassis to allow gas to escape or otherwise you can get explosive reactions. This is why there are a hell of a lot more holes drilled through than a standard painted chassis. And also to ensure max coverage internally.
For a tubular outrigger to be 20mm out is shody workmanship, whether its down to galv distortion or poor welding, or attitude.
Someone said something about a chassis being coated in plastic and was preferable to galv, well absolutely no way, as soon as you get the slightest fault or piercing on the finish water will immediately find enter and thfen be trapped... That's essentially why powder coating is so crap, you see it all the time on things like roofracks etc... Galvanising is the BEST way to protect steel from corrosion, some early series 1 chassis that were dipped are still in good condition, LR dropped the idea of having chassis galvanised because of cost mainly...you have to prep the whole chassis, and then retap and clean off excess... its all down to time, and therefore cost at the end of the day, same reason they stopped galving the tub tops, and now they are one of the first things to crumble
For a tubular outrigger to be 20mm out is shody workmanship, whether its down to galv distortion or poor welding, or attitude.
Someone said something about a chassis being coated in plastic and was preferable to galv, well absolutely no way, as soon as you get the slightest fault or piercing on the finish water will immediately find enter and thfen be trapped... That's essentially why powder coating is so crap, you see it all the time on things like roofracks etc... Galvanising is the BEST way to protect steel from corrosion, some early series 1 chassis that were dipped are still in good condition, LR dropped the idea of having chassis galvanised because of cost mainly...you have to prep the whole chassis, and then retap and clean off excess... its all down to time, and therefore cost at the end of the day, same reason they stopped galving the tub tops, and now they are one of the first things to crumble
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I did smile when I read the plastic coating bit and thought to myself they obviosuly havent had any of the plastic coated garden furniture/brackets etc that literaly rot from the inside out.
Turboman
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You have obviously never seen a G-Wagen chassis, powder coated, and they last very well for thirty years or more.
Shame the bodies don't follow suit, but there is no such thing as a perfect vehicle.
Like everything else, getting good results with powder coating is a matter of preparation and doing the job right.
Paint would be a good coating for Land Rover chassis, but sadly, they don't do the job right.
Turboman
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Garden furniture has cheap, thin powder coating, and there is almost certainly rust on the metal before it is coated.
It can be an excellent system if properly applied.
No I haven't, and they must be the exception to the rule, because every, single item I've ever come across that's been powder coated has either rust bubbles, corrosion, or is just totally fecked. It doesn't really matter about the prep to some extent, it will always give up before galv will, galv actually totally bonds to the steel, and will creep, if it gets dinged by a stone or scratched, it will creep and fill, as soon as powder coating gets dinged its just a matter of time. Water will find its way in, and it will get trapped and then corrode. I'm not talking about cheap crap either, motorbike parts, extremely well made and named roofracks.... I'll never buy anything that's powder coated if I have an alternative option
Turboman
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Galv is quite a good system, but it doesn't like road salt very much, the salt turns it a crusty brown.
I have never had a galvanised chassis, if I did get one, I would probably paint it before fitment, to keep salt away.
It lasts about 25 years anyway, but if I was going to go to the trouble of re-chassising, I would go to the extra trouble of painting it.
tottot
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Salt is a barsteward even on galvanised gate's,The sea facing side is soon brown around here. Still a lot better than plain steel though.
And the first time you venture off road and damage the coating its the begining of the end for the chassis.
I agree with this, that’s why I will be painting mine when I fit it. I can’t justify the £2K+ outlay, to then “leave” it to the elements. If I can protect it and make it last an extra 15-20 years by painting it and waxing it regularly, then why not? The original chassis, however bad it was protected in the past, has lasted over 25 years; the galv must last at least double that.
I think when people put a 25yr life on galv they are talking carp, I can only assume the end user say they want 25 years and to cover their rears the dippers make sure its better than that, same as any time garauntee really.
Remember chris from before and afetr with his guarantee and that rusty discovery 1? basically you have to be really really sure its going to last longer than you say it will otherwise its going to cost you.
When our houses were built all the builders junk was tossed into the woods, 17 yrs later when we moved in I came across a bit of galved angle buried in the ground, dug it up, it was perfect, cut it up and a section of it has been holding my fence up for the last 22 years no rust at all and I didnt protect any of the cuts.
In my mind glav is the only low to zero maintenance anti rust product out there, all the others pale into comparison.
59 yrs on my orignal s2 chassis, yes its been repaired a few times, but its still there, imagine if it was galved how long it would last?
My original probably could have been saved, but then how much of it would have been original? I didn’t want to hassle of year on year welding repairs, so I opted to replace it. I had the money stashed away to replace the doors, but bought the chassis instead.
bluedog333
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Plastic coated galvanised must be the way forward then!
jamesmartin
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i built a defender station wagon with a plastic coated chassis a good few years back, customers insistence,you could hear the coating disintegrate as bits were bolted to it ,once the moisture got in there it would be long before it rotted,galv every time
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I wanted to keep the original chassis number, seems sily but I even rebuilt the dumb iron as I reckon those cars woth original chassis will be worth more in the future.
Remember and etch it first
I already have the T-Wash and plenty of red oxide. Hopefully it will be a tough and durable coating.
flat
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If I had a galv chassis I would paint it purely to hide it from scum that like pinching shiny things.
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