P38A problem with air suspension

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gandelf1953 said:
Have read on another forum about replacing the delay relay which i think is a 5 pin with a 4 pin to stop the self leveling down to the bump stops
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Yes, you can do that. Got a feeling it stops you using diagnostics though. Might be wrong. Be careful when unloading heavy objects though as it won't drop itself down when you shut the tailgate and the arse will be pointing skywards extending the air-springs.
 
I did the relay mod on mine, stopped it using the stored air in the tank to sit up. Trick is if you have a heavy load on board let it run a bit longer so it settles before you shut it off. I can still use the rsw sweet on mine without any complications. http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/eas-modification.html
Worked for me, but you'll have to decide for yourself. The shock absorbers stop it from over reaching the airbags unless you have modified ones. I find every time I start her up she drops a little rather than having to use its air reserve to lift it up into position. As I say, think it through first.good luck;)
 
The eas system was a very good idea up to a point the valve block is the best bit controlling the airbags like it does how many trucks can corner like the RR with the hight & weight that it is with little body roll, the let down is the single feed to & from the tank so the pump has to fill bags & tank together twice as much work for it no wonder they wear out it should have a pressure relief valve this takes the load off the pump valves all air compressors have them the pressure switch is the other one why go to 150 psi when 65 to 70 psi takes the bags to full hight 120 psi would be ample so the pump works a lot more easy the higher the pressure the less cfm the pump makes it probably takes twice as long to go 100 to 150 psi than it does from 0 to 100 psi i will be changing mine at some stage
 
gandelf1953 said:
The eas system was a very good idea up to a point the valve block is the best bit controlling the airbags like it does how many trucks can corner like the RR with the hight & weight that it is with little body roll, the let down is the single feed to & from the tank so the pump has to fill bags & tank together twice as much work for it no wonder they wear out it should have a pressure relief valve this takes the load off the pump valves all air compressors have them the pressure switch is the other one why go to 150 psi when 65 to 70 psi takes the bags to full hight 120 psi would be ample so the pump works a lot more easy the higher the pressure the less cfm the pump makes it probably takes twice as long to go 100 to 150 psi than it does from 0 to 100 psi i will be changing mine at some stage
Click to expand...

If you have a fully working fault free system the compressor fills the tank, that tank fills the bags, and as required the compressor tops the tank up. No need to modify anything. Once at standard ride height the only time any air is used from the tank is when returning from motorway setting (over 50 mph) to standard (below 35 mph). If the system is inhibited in standard height or motorway height no air should be used from the tank and the compressor should not run unless it is feeding a leak.
 
As above. People have looked at other pumps but the original is actually the best value for the expected duty cycle and range of pressure. Shouldn't drop below 100psi at any time really. Not unless it has been parked up a very long time.
 
Grrrrrr said:
As above. People have looked at other pumps but the original is actually the best value for the expected duty cycle and range of pressure. Shouldn't drop below 100psi at any time really. Not unless it has been parked up a very long time.
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A good working compressor should take no more than five or six minutes to fill tank from empty with a door open. If tank pressure falls below 120 psi when the door is shut and car rises the compressor should start and top the tank up. Other than with the normal automatic transition from motorway to standard as explained, no air should be used from the tank at all.
 
If you think about it the air in the tank is used all the time so when you hit a corner hard the ride hight sensors detect a miss match across the axle and try to
compensate thats why this big hunk of metal can corner like it does i have driven one on springs and it feels like a different car not a mod that i would ever do
If the eas was there just to lift the car up & down why have a valve for each bag when two would do front & back have tried this on my old 4.0 L
linked the two front bags together & the two rears it worked perfectly to get me out of trouble when two of the solenoids failed as i said the valve block is the clever bit
 
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gandelf1953 said:
If you think about it the air in the tank is used all the time so when you hit a corner hard the ride hight sensors detect a miss match across the axle and try to
compensate thats why this big hunk of metal can corner like it does i have driven one on springs and it feels like a different car not a mod that i would ever do
If the eas was there just to lift the car up & down why have a valve for each bag when two would do front & back have tried this on my old 4.0 L
linked the two front bags together & the two rears it worked perfectly to get me out of trouble when two of the solenoids failed as i said the valve block is the clever bit
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Nonsense total and utter bollocks. Once the ride height is set the air pressure in the bags is not increased or reduced by the system, other than as explained earlier, only by compression or expansion as the suspension is loaded. Think you need to read up on how the system works before you start spouting. When the car speed reduces below 1 mph both front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle, that is why it is so important to have the bit count within 2 side to side. To avoid a fall and rise as this takes place.
 
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gandelf1953 said:
... have tried this on my old 4.0 L
linked the two front bags together & the two rears it worked perfectly to get me out of trouble when two of the solenoids failed as i said the valve block is the clever bit
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Congratulations- you created a clown car that would actively fall over going around corners :)
Think about it. Turn corner, outside bag compresses due to weight transfer, air from the compressed bag moves to inside bag, which expands even more due to increased air pressure and weight transfer.
Active roll suspension. Wonder why it would never catch on?
 
Orangebean said:
Congratulations- you created a clown car that would actively fall over going around corners :)
Think about it. Turn corner, outside bag compresses due to weight transfer, air from the compressed bag moves to inside bag, which expands even more due to increased air pressure and weight transfer.
Active roll suspension. Wonder why it would never catch on?
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Sometimes the ideas and perceptions some people have totally astounds me.
 
Sorry if i upset you guys got bored the other night and thought i would have a bit of fun just to see what reaction i would get hope i did not offend!!
If i knew everything about RRs i would not need this site now would i and at the end of the day thats what we all use it for to leech off other guys
experience
 
gandelf1953 said:
Sorry if i upset you guys got bored the other night and thought i would have a bit of fun just to see what reaction i would get hope i did not offend!!
If i knew everything about RRs i would not need this site now would i and at the end of the day thats what we all use it for to leech off other guys
experience
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OK i believe you thousands wouldn't. If you put info up on here please make sure it is good info some are easily lead. ;)
 
Ok ! what i did say about linking the bags however is true needed to get the car up to change them did not have a good jack back then
it worked a treat to get the stands under dont think the pump liked it much but the pump & block where having a service any way
 
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