Problem replacing flexi brake pipes

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David Pye

Active Member
Posts
623
Location
Newcastle Upon Tyne
Hi guys,

Am replacing the flexible brake hoses on my TD5 as they are perished, and the ends are very rusty indeed.

Having a problem though - the unions between the flexi pipes and the copper pipes are extremely hard to undo. Managed it on one side using a pair of molegrips but at first the copper pipe itself was twisting on its' axis rather than the union undoing. Despite doing quite a few turns on its axis before I noticed, it doesn't appear to be damaged. Should it be replaced anyway after this kind of trauma? Same problem trying to fit it to the new flexi hose, as the union on the copper pipe doesn't rotate without turning the whole pipe, so tried to screw the flexi hose onto it to try not to twist the pipe enough to snap it.

Secondly, the other side, I just *cannot* undo. The flexible hose mounting bracked has snapped (although it doesn't matter as the new hose came with one :)) so it's very difficult trying to hold the pipe still to enable me to undo the union, even if I could. Any tips? I'm guessing using a blowtorch is out with the fluid being flammable etc.

As there is a little bit of excess length in the pipe, I am wondering if I very carefully cut the end of the pipe off at the union, put a new union and flare on it, whether that would solve them problem, rather than have to replace the entire pipe back to the modulator?

If I do need to get flaring, any suggestions on a tool that won't make leaky poor quality flares? I don't mind paying more than the cheapo kits, but don't want to pay hundreds!

Any advice welcome!

Cheers,

David
 
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best if you can find second hand as expensive-£200+ for pro

Professional Flaring Tool (3/16 and 1/4*(M245) - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques looks ok and frost okay but still over £120


The really **** ones are okay if you make sure you centre them properly, unless someone can recommend a cheap one that performs well

Sealey Pipe Flaring Tool Kit - Trueshopping may be better sub £50

try this one they look a good price mite get me a pair just in case http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Kit-Sealey-AK5063
 
try this one they look a good price mite get me a pair just in case Pipe Flaring Tool Kit Sealey AK5063

Just dont. I bought one today, and it's absolutely awful!

The hole that the threaded rod that drives the former runs through isn't straight so all the flares are off centre in the same direction, regardless of what else you try.

Bought a Sykes-Pickavant Flaremaster2 in the end and will be taking the Sealey one back on Monday :(

David
 
Hi guys,

Am replacing the flexible brake hoses on my TD5 as they are perished, and the ends are very rusty indeed.

Having a problem though - the unions between the flexi pipes and the copper pipes are extremely hard to undo. Managed it on one side using a pair of molegrips but at first the copper pipe itself was twisting on its' axis rather than the union undoing. Despite doing quite a few turns on its axis before I noticed, it doesn't appear to be damaged. Should it be replaced anyway after this kind of trauma? Same problem trying to fit it to the new flexi hose, as the union on the copper pipe doesn't rotate without turning the whole pipe, so tried to screw the flexi hose onto it to try not to twist the pipe enough to snap it.

Secondly, the other side, I just *cannot* undo. The flexible hose mounting bracked has snapped (although it doesn't matter as the new hose came with one :)) so it's very difficult trying to hold the pipe still to enable me to undo the union, even if I could. Any tips? I'm guessing using a blowtorch is out with the fluid being flammable etc.

As there is a little bit of excess length in the pipe, I am wondering if I very carefully cut the end of the pipe off at the union, put a new union and flare on it, whether that would solve them problem, rather than have to replace the entire pipe back to the modulator?

If I do need to get flaring, any suggestions on a tool that won't make leaky poor quality flares? I don't mind paying more than the cheapo kits, but don't want to pay hundreds!

Any advice welcome!

Cheers,

David

Come across this many times either its rustid in or its been ****ed up too tight and clamped itself into the nut, more common with the softer copper pipes. Just cut the coont and put a ring key on it and replace the pipe.

Be careful with joining, at one time it was wrong to join a female end into a male you had to use an adapter piece. The reason for this was that it was so easy to romp em up squashing the softer pipe into the other pipe blocking the hole a little bit, and you wouldnt notice it on a dual braking circuit.

I agree about the pipe buy good quality stuff not that **** stuff, I'm not sure its pure copper tho, I think that suffers from fatigue.
 
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